I'm new here, but what a great resource here for TR owners and enthusiasts like me.

Could I ask a quick question?  I have a Crypton cruise mate 440 tuner and would really like a schematic diagram for it.  Would any nice person here have such a thing?

I would really appreciate any help with this.

Thank you .

until recently I have been using Wynnes Brake&Clutch cleaner as a general degreaser.  It cleans very well leaving no residue and dries fast.
However the prices have gone higher and higher

In August I was trawling the Ebay and found Holts Brake&Clutch cleaner and so gave it a try.

The results are very similar to Wynnes at less than 1/2 the cost           Cleaner

It really is worth trying.

Roger

Thanks for the advice.

Richard

My problem is an oil filter. This case has a much smaller cavity below the oil pump. The original TR4 OD oil filter is too deep. I did a search on line and found a 'shallow oil filter' but can not find out what car/s it fits.

Little to no new parts available here so looking to find a car club that maybe able to help. Can any one identify the car type the case came from?

Brian

So I am looking for a repair specialist near Lewes, Sussex who could help with my existing Kenlowe. Any help please ?

Richard

I had what may be called a millennial moment as opposed to the normal senior moment, and photographed the plug tips and asked AI if the mixture was correct for my 1972 CF TR6.

The results came back with the front carb being spot on and the rear slightly lean but acceptable. So a slight tweak of the rear carb and I shall check again next week 

George 

Just sorting through my remaining stuff from my old Tr6 to see if anything was suitable for my 4a when I found this ,

Any ideas what it is, I can’t remember 

I purchased one many years ago from a specialist company, but although it kinda works it only fits over the screen and stops half way down the back window. Typically, I waited too long before trying it so couldn’t return it.

Any suggestions/photos will be most helpful.

Thanks in advance

Mike

Today I was out in the garage and found the torque wrench. It was reduced to zero so that it did not become strained. The purpose of this posting is to find out how tight the the retaining bolts should be in case the same problem ever arises again. I used to know but have forgotten this detail.

I am sure that someone on here will know. I will then keep a note of the answer in the car.

Thanks Richard 

I looked up superpro, but they only do the top inner ones, plus shocker's & antiroll bar, which is not really what I was after, rather both ends of bottom, & inner of top wishbones. Superflex seem to do more, & maybe I can get something at the NEC show ?

Bob

My newly acquired 4a is fitted with a tandem Lockheed brake Master Cylinder AP 3212-450. From the cars history I can see it was a reconditioned unit when fitted in 1995. It leaks from the back of the cylinder  running down the Servo. Considering its age what do you think  my best options are. 

Thanks

Cameron  

Further to a request for an used com plate I went seeking a method to neatly stamp a new com plate 

 Came up with this 3D print option.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2225712-metal-letter-stamping-jig-precision-alignment-tool#profileId-2420844

or buy one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406942218999?_ul=GB&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ab%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A406942218999%3B013a5f9dee591128b6c2352a8941201f&loc_physical_ms=246827&loc_interest_ms=

Or do the cheap and easy method. https://www.instructables.com/Jig-for-Punching-or-Stamping-Letters-Straight/

Getting the letter kerning correct to look like a bought one would send you down a track to make one yourself  or If like me you have 1/8" stamps not 3 mm I would expect some fine tuning of the punch support is required.

Alternatively....Machine one from a lump of metal and put in all your desired features.

video of machine method from Blondihacks using basic milling skills.

About an hour ago I had a knock on the door. A neighbour across the road was in a panic and asked if I could help.
One of the relations (a young girl) had shut her young child (about 6 months old) in the front seat of her new car.
She had the keys in the igntion and the car locked itself.   All the doors were locked.

Before asking for my help they had spoken to a locksmith who gave them no help. 
They are not in the AA/RAC.

 By now the baby was crying with a lot of noise.  I suggested calling the police as they may come across these things on a daily basis.

Somebody appeared with a hammer and started bashing like crazy at a rear window - absolutely nothing happened.
And then just like that the door opened - I think it became unlocked and someone opened it quickly. But the car unlocked itself.

So If you get locked out of your Mercedes it may well unlock itself after about 20 - 30 miutes.

I am truly mystified.

Roger

I am sure that this is easy when you know the proper way to do it. I have done it before but it was probably the last century.

Any advice would be very useful.

Richard

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gbsbcat7aiy14tegv193s/Issue-24-ITG-Aug-2026.pdf?rlkey=sosrybj0kp78a50neycs4hlby&st=rzgl1d9n&dl=0

since 2016 I have been playing around with OverDrive Logic Boxes. 
My first box was very simple. I think it had about 5 components.  That is quite a high number compared to at least one other that I know of.
This box needed updating to improve the control. It worked properly and consistenly but in my mind it just needed updating.

The first update added an electronic timer. This is nothing grand. It is an 8 legged chip known as the 555. This is possibly the most produced IC in the world of electronics - production runs into the many billions and has been around for abut 50 years or so.
Anyway my control box now had one - so there.

The basic circuit used quite a few relays. now this is not a bad thing but relays do have a weakness. In the ON condition the contacts are held in place by coil that is quite powerful (even for a small relay). But in the OFF condition there is only a small spring keeping them in place. With todays shabby roads it is quite possible for even a small pothole to make an OFF contact bounce into an ON condition.   So after a few years of small improvements I decided to remove all the relays that could cause chaos.

This actually allowed an extra relay to be removed. Any gain in space is good.

So what allowed the removal of the relays. Well simply an electronic relay (nearly)  This is called a Thyristor. This is a beauty and every electronic box needs one even if it is just tapped inside th box.  What does a Thyristor do?  It has three legs - An Anode where things go in, The cathode where things come out  and a gate that turns it ON.  Having turned it ON how the hell do you turn it OFF. Not easYou can't just simple shut the gate (well you can on the big (lots of Amps) Thyristors) but mine is small.  So what do you do.
You can disconnect the output and it will stop. if you reconnect it it stays stopped (maybe!!)
You can disconnect the input and it will stop.  If you reconnect it it stays stopped (Usually!!)
Or you can connect the input to the output and that stops the electrons whizzing along because there is nothing pulling them along.
But annoyingly nearly all electronic items do not work perfectly - 99.9% is very good but there is always that 0.1% lurking
it would appear that Thyristors have capicitance within them (damn) and this can cause the blighters to turn ON when not expected to do so.
In my design I put a small reply at the Thyristor input and grounded the input - that sorted the capacitance.

I mentioned above that you could stop the Thyristor by grounding the input to the output.  You could use a relay for this but don't forget the potholes.
So i used a power transistor and it worked perfectly on the test board (they always do) . But when wired into the working PCB it only worked 99.9% correctly - double damn. After a bit of head scratching I came uo with a rather esoteric (I needed to use that word) Transistor called a MOSFET.
Ordiary TRansistors when they are turned ON still have a resistance between IN and OUT and that causes issues. The MOSFET has almost no resistance
and the odd thing is the more powerful the device the smaller the resistance. So my box has a whopper- about 100AMPs ( I only needs 300mA).

The relays that are being use (not affected by potholes) form a nice latching switch that I invented. And that is true. Well it was true until I found the same switch in an old magazine - triple damn.    This marvel of a switch allows the one switch on the steering column to be the ON switch and the OFF switch at the same time - truly amazing.

So, you have a switch that turns on the Thyristor and makes the OD solenoid do its job.
The same swtch turns the thyristor Off and killing the solenoid.
Now you may be asking yourself  isn't that what the mechanical switch on the steering column did.  Well, er, yes. but.

The little trick that the box does is it will automatically (that's a big word) turn the OD OFF when you change gear. Yeh,how about that.
In fact for the racing boys it is quite a big bonus. You do not want to be in the wrong gear when speeding around the track.
Going from 4th OD to 3rd OD is not funny.

Below is a pic of the 2nd from last design/Upgrade I am doing and the PCB is quite well packed.
The other box will be the last upgrade - this incorporates a socket so that the box can be changed (put into your second car).

So far this design has worked well with very few explosions failures. The biggest problem was caused by the most popular IC coming from one of the UK's top suppliers RS Components - I bought 2 x 50 555's and they ALL didn't work.  I also recently bought 25 from a different supplier and they also didn't work.  Thankfull there are a great many suppliers with good IC's.

One of my forum friends (RobH) has been very helpful with when things go awry - remember the capacitance above - he knew about it.

If you haven't tried using a Logic box then I would suggect giving it a go. It certainly will not change your life but it may make you smile every now and then. 

I know this is all gobble de gook to most of you but feel happy that up and down the UK there are folk beavering away in garden sheds inventing this stuff and it isn't you. 

Roger

The car is from a deceased estate and had been standing for 18 months and I don`t know if it had been converted to negative earth previously, but as it has an old Motorola radio fitted which is probably pos earth anyway and still works (not that one can get any stations now on Medium and Long wave).

It also has a Smiths electric clock which works and is original to the car, are these polarity sensitive does anyone know.

Thanks,    Ralph.

So the government is going to try and effectively remove vehicles from the road
They've created a sneaky consultation on this huge change with a end date of only the 6th of September 
They want to have a yearly emissions check on every car and motorcycle on the road AS WELL as your MOT.
If you pass the MOT but then go to your emissions check, if the vehicle doesn't emit exactly the same emissions as when it was built the car will be banned from any use on the road even if it passed its MOT emissions.
This will effectively destroy a majority of the car industry as car tuning and modification will stop you been able to drive your car 
This is targeting all vehicle, cars, motorbikes, trikes, kit cars etc.
So far they are just targeting cars after 2001 but they want to use it on every vehicle on the road targeting mot & tax exempt (historic) vehicles 
They've purposely not given this consultation much time, so please go to the bottom of this page, tell them you do not want any of this from the government and share the consultation for others to do the same.
Only way to stop this would be to get the results of this consultation to be a resounding NO!

[https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles-regulating-environmental-impacts/regulating-environmental-impact-of-in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles?fbclid=IwY2xjawT7bVxwZG9mAWV4dG4DYWVtAjEwAGJyaWQRMG5PY05EeGNJNG80WUE5eFNzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEeBt9ZD9Go5fYlS_MqGambtsZ07bHBffJ8Z3t4PJVsrc8hZRSJPzkATTf7774_aem_DWwJES6SNxs4QkSNOiRITg](https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles-regulating-environmental-impacts/regulating-environmental-impact-of-in-use-emissions-of-road-vehicles?fbclid=IwY2xjawT7bVxwZG9mAWV4dG4DYWVtAjEwAGJyaWQRMG5PY05EeGNJNG80WUE5eFNzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEeBt9ZD9Go5fYlS_MqGambtsZ07bHBffJ8Z3t4PJVsrc8hZRSJPzkATTf7774_aem_DWwJES6SNxs4QkSNOiRITg)

I put Halfords classic engine oil I bought 2 years ago in my tr6 , I need a top up but even with trade its silly money now, I also need oil for my Essex GTE and the wife's MGBGT if I ever get it back the road and by the time I get my tr3a finished the oil fields would have all dried up.

Soooo....What to buy and from where please?  I see the formulations are being changed all the time. Comma is the same as Halfords apparently and none give the zinc content and many are listing medium detergent.  prices vary wildly.

Any advice please Regards Ken.

I want to test an ignition switch before I install it in my restoration. Can someone help me please.

 Thanks 

Graham

Today I was unravfelling a bunch of double pull switches.  They are the ones used all over BL vehicles and notably the TR4A Wiper motor.

Till now I have seen two different types of internal contact -

1/2 round (very common)  34477A
A pair of trapezoidal lumps  35921A
And then one I have not seen before. The centre support is steel (not plastic) this has a nylon cover and then a copper jacket as the contact. 34317A

The 1/2 round I think is the lastest variety I have ones stamped 68, 70, 73,
The 34317A is stamped 60 so very early.  The far better quality construction didn't last long.  Peny pinching all the way

i thought I had fixed this as my A type OD was playing up electrically  not activating or dropping out whilst racing  

I have a Revington logic box. And the old style relay (r106?)
 

I have spoken to Tom cox and tried his advice of reseating the top gearbox switches by removing one of the 2 fibre washers and making the wiring more secure between the switches and the solenoid feed. 
 

At slow speed and stationary it works fine clicked in and out warning light on etc 2nd 3rd and 4th
 

however where I needed it at 5000+ revs 4th it was dead the switch wouldn’t activate the od or the warning light. 
 

So today in the paddock at aintree ( my fastest track of the season ) I took  Toms “if all else fails”  advice I did a direct live feed to the solenoid through a normal ( not momentary) switch 

with toms warning ringing in my ears not to reverse with it on !!

this worked on od 4th . Phew

( 1st in class and 1st on handicap)
 

So what’s happening electrically at only high revs whilst moving to prevent it working ?

oh yes I’m racing tomorrow as well !!!!

3 sisters at Wigan 

These plugs have a wide gap and there is no way to make any adjustment. I will try to measure the gap in the garage tomorrow if the weather is not cold and wet. There is some carbon on the threaded part but the actual point is pale brown.

The engine  now starts immediately but  for many years I used to have to hand prime the carbs before  starting the engine. Now it is like a modern car.   I use no choke at all and my current question is how to get more  MPG than the  present mileage which seems to be about 24 mpg. My fuel gauge is not very accurate and I use a marked dipstick when I am checking the fuel.

I am needing advice before I make any alterations because the TR has never run so well. It is tempting to ask a mobile Tuner to visit but I do not know anyone local  who understands 1950"s cars

thanks

Richard

cannot find one 

Roy