Is it possible to replace the spline shaft in the rack, if the parts are available? Or is it a new rack, or better still a reconditioned one. 

over the last week I have been making a TR4 and TR4A sun visor brackets. I still have to finish some parts for a couple of members.

The 4A bracket rods are cranked. Otherwise they are very similar.

The central boss starts life as a 1" x 1" x 1.75" piece of Ali bar.

I started off by drilling the three holes - central attachment and the two rod holes. The rod holes are a little awkward as they have a 3 degree angle to them.

This is then roughed into shape with a rasp or serious coarse file. And then gently shaped with a 60 grit sanding disc. The 60 grit is exchanged for 180,240, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit ti get to a surface ready for polishing with Auotsol.

The end mounts go through a similar process but start life as a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1.5" block

I attach the rods but taping a 1/"UNF thread in the block with a thread on the rod. These are then tightened in with a drop of thread lock added.

The rods are 7mm. I can;t find 7mm mild steel so I use either silver steel or stainless steel. TRiumph's are defo mild steel as they go rusty, BUT where do you get 7mm mild steel

Why didn't they use 1/4"

The process is quite slow and bit labourious but the finished item is very pleasing.

Roger

on my TR4A I have a strange steering problem, I guess since 2 years:

driving on a staight raod the steering wheel is slightly turned to the right.

I correct this on the tie rods, pulling the left one in and pushing the right one out.

The steering wheel is straight again but after some time it is turned slightly to the right again.

This happend several times, I guess a total of 2 turns of the nuts, and now it seems to happen faster. 

My first idea was the rack is slack and moving to the left, but it is tight.

Now an old thread came in my mind about "the housing can move off the steel tube" -> to the left on my LHD.

Does anybody remember and can offer a link, please? The rack is a replacement from 2015.

Ciao, Marco

My TR4 overdrive has been working fine for many years until last week. Overdrive worked fine for part of my drive out with healthy quick engagements and now I just get buzzing from the relay with no overdrive engagement.

I have changed the 6RA unit and tried a modern type relay today and both just buzz when overdrive is engaged.  There are no obvious faults with the wiring connections to the relay and the power supplies are good 11ish volts. My reading of possible problems from previous posts and internet is that the earth grounding of the solenoid or gearbox switch might be the problem.

Is there a simple way to confirm the earthing of each - maybe using a multi meter resistance setting?

Can I bypass the relay to just send power to test the solenoid engagement when in the garage?

Is there anything else I should be checking before I have to trace each wire and switch?

Many thanks

Mark

I am considering fitting a Revotec fan to my '4, leaving the fan extension in place.

Although I believe puller fans to be preferable, I thought I might attempt a home-brew pusher version, and just rig a simple on/off switch & maybe an indicator lamp.

I can buy the fan itself cheaply, but the top-end kit comes with metal mountings for the fan. As a cheapskate, could I make these, or similar, myself? Or ...?

Thanks, Adrian

I have just had my radiator re-cored as it was leaking in two places, I noticed that the bonnet strengthener was marked at the point it touches the radiator.

I read with interest in other older posts and apologise if this is repetition. So far I have had most success by removing the rubber spacer under the radiator, however although not as tight the radiator still touches the bonnet on closure. I have also tweaked the radiator side bars to pull the radiator back.

I like the suggestion by TR4Tony about "check that there are shims between the body / chassis mounts". This sounds like the best option in that it would raise the front of the car up, however is there a recommended thickness for these shims and would it have an impact on the next chassis mounts along? I have checked and there seems to be very little or no shims at all at the very front and reading the various catalogues adds further confusion as there seems to be mention of metal plates should supplement the rubber/canvas pads.

Also does there have to be any rubber spacers under the Radiator, could it not just be bolted, or would this cause damage?

I have also read that there was a problem years ago where a batch of radiators where constructed with the side lower brackets being welded 1 inch too low, in order to check this does anyone know what the correct position should be?

Thanks in anticipation.

Barry

             About to re-adjust my rocker arm gaps Again! seem to be doing this every 500 miles, is this normal? Can anyone suggest any upgrade that may be of use. I seem to remember some old fords had a stiff nut on the adjuster rather than a lock nut, is there any equivalent for the triumph? Should I replace the rocker arms with new?

Look forward to your sage replies as usual.

Kind regards....

Andy.

                 I know some of you will hate this and some may be interested. Having a bit of time left over from my winter maintenance programme, I decided to install an Electronic Fuel Injection system into my 62 TR4. I can report that it is a game changer with regard to how the car runs. No particular question associated with this post but I thought it may be interesting to some people who were thinking of doing similar. I am happy to share the experience of installation etc, as there wasn't very much info around in the UK, before I embarked on this modification. Starts first time on the key every time, idles perfectly at 750rpm, pulls like a train, no hesitations, pops bangs etc.

Andy

So today I will be removing the old part and possible getting it refurbished. I'm also toying with the idea of upgrading to a high torque version but have seen some bad reports rgds WOSP models.

Any recommendations gratefully received. Also is removal straight forward or is there anything I need to be aware of before I dive in?

Cheers. Andy

I guess it must be measured at top-dead-center if I am not mistaken.... please correct if wrong?

Cheers Chris.

(We've had a change of furniture and I don't know where my workshop manuals are!)

Pete

The image I've attached is just for illustration purposes (I think its from a motorbike actually) but I thought it may help to explain my problem as I can't find a part number either.

Many thanks

Graeme

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/83

Please feel free to get in touch if this is of interest.

Cheers Rich C-R

 the other day my hooter was not working. Today I started to have a look at what was going on.

The fuse was OK.
I quickly found that one of the two horns was not actually workable (dead)
But the other was good and loud(ish)  But not working from the horn push on the steering wheel.

After checking all the link wires around the rubber doughnuts I found that all the links actually worked but not necessarily from clamp to clamp either side of the doughnuts.

I removed the lower steering shaft and found that all the lnk wire ring terminals had very dirty corroded contacts with the steel clamp fittings.
They had probably been in place for 20+ years.

Easy enough to clean but what is the best way to keep it clean.

Tomorrow I shall put it all back together and (fingers crossed) test to see that it all works.

Roger

Oddly the positions of the four minor gauges does not change from L to RHD. I always thought that the oil pressure and temperature gauges were fitted on the left on my car so that these critical instruments were not masked by the driver's left hand at 'ten to two'. However, the fact that they remain on the left for LHD vehicles blows my theory since they are now masked by a US driver's right hand! I should have known better than to impute such thoughtful ergonomics to ST engineers of the '60s.

Tim  

Is it just a matter of fixing the press suds on the new one in the same position as the old one? or are there some tricks to get it nice and tight?

Cheers Gary

I do not have issues with it but I would like to prevent having them.

I drive not more then a few thousand km's annually, if that, I always fill up with 98 octane and drive the car as if it were a lady.

What is the recommended maintenance of this unit?

John.

Keith

For reference I’m working on a LHD car, new harness from Moss - I went with the black tape version. No overdrive. 
 

First question (of many to come): wiper motor switch. I’ve seen several diagrams online as to how to connect this specific switch, but still remain a bit confused. Can someone explain what wire goes to its specific numeric contact?

Next question: here’s a view of the lighting wires coming out of the loom. The schematic doesn’t say anything about a double blue/white (aka UW) in this area. These colors are associated with the headlights but I was able to get them going (both hi and low beam) without connecting it. Even more interesting is that when tracing this connection for continuity it seems to be connected to the B terminal on the flasher…

Any thoughts 

Finally, (for now… )The heater blower won’t work. I know it’s ok, as a direct connection to the battery makes it come to life. However, when I try to connect/activate it through the switch I get nothing. When checking continuity for this I get the proper green wire at the voltage stabilizer and fuse box, but I also get continuity to earth both on the body and at the voltage regulator. There shouldn’t be power and ground on the same wire- right?
 

Thanks in advance for all help! 
Jamie 

Cheers

Ron