I have the original bayonet-type non-return valve on my brake servo.

It's working fine, but it chatters most of the time when the engine is running. Since it's right in front of me on the other side of the bulkhead, it's quite annoying. Is there a way, perhaps, to stop this chattering?  It's taken me a while to work out where the noise is coming from!

I see that they are either very expensive or no longer available; the current servos being supplied with a push-in valve. Are there any effective ways to reduce the noise?

As you will appreciate the asking price is ridiculously low for the car…

If the advert is genuine then snap it up, it’s an excellent car which was a reluctant sale !

Tom Hall

I have a TR5 brochure showing black hoses but googled and it said they were yellow striped or was just the 250 striped ??

David

suggestions as to the cause please

thanks

Gordon

Stuart.

Cheers

Dave.https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C2044108

Chris

I'm looking to buy a boot seal for my TR5 rebuild, and am a bit confused about the products offered by Moss. 

The complete seal is £21.60, and by the metre (4xM) is £94.80! The profile looks to be different.

Can anyone cast a light on what I should be looking for?

Thanks. Dave.

Metering unit refurbished  , injectors refurbished , new injector hoses ,  modern PRV , new fuel lines , clean tank .

symptoms , losing fueling on an injector after 30 mins run , car stands for 15 to 30 mins , restart and runs on 5 cylinders , done it twice in the last week, and many times last year.

Managed to fault car whilst fault was still present , and no 3 injector no fuel , others weak pulse, pulled number 3 injector and pulled end of injector fuel came out , let go of end fuel stopped, left it for 15 mins to have a think went back to it , pulled injector again started injecting again fault cleared . Last  year same happened , but other injector numbers , hence why i got metering unit refurbished.

Now put a fuel pressure gauge on MU, and good solid 102PSI, tried to replicate fault, another run out , stand car , restart all good, so plan is to run local runs , see if i can get it to fail and check fuel pressure gauge if fault appears.

For a PI car its starts brilliantly hot or cold on all cylinders, alot better than the TR6 i had previously.

So symptoms suggesting to me fuel pressure intermittently dropping , but cannot prove it yet,, im checking fuel tank vent this morning and look inside tank for any plastic debris etc intermittently blocking tank outlet. 

so my focus at moment is fuel pump set up ( came with car unknown to me ) , looks a Bosch pump setup, seems when i research types of pumps Rimmers/Moss sell Bosch type pump setup with Bosch Filter Pre pump, but the likes of TR Trader/Prestige there pump has a sytec bullet pre filter , Bosch type pump, then Bosch high pressure filter .  I also read an old post from Stuart that Bosch pumps dont like pre filter restrictions .

So my pump setup is as picture , So from tank I have Bosch filter 0450905005 F5005  ( fitted correct direction)  this then feeds into the Bosch type pump and its high pressure output goes to modern new PRV etc . So when i look on MOSS site Bosch filter replacement is 0450905005, when i look on Rimmers site Bosch filter replacement is 0450905021 F5021, I cannot find anywhere on Google what the difference is between the filters , im thinking do i have the wrong filter in pre pump thats unsettling the pump sometimes , filter was new last year , changed like for like  so not blocked , 

Anybody got any theories i can follow , do pumps drop pressure intermittently ? which im still trying to prove with pressure gauge 

Dave

The water spurts out of a hole that "appears to be behind the timing chain cover and underneath the water pump and hits the back of the radiator".

Please see picture of hole just NW of centre of the green circle.

Could this be a leaking core plug?

If so, is this a straightforward job or one for the professionals!?

And is this an engine out job?

Also where would that grey gunge have come from?

Thanks in anticipation of your assistance and comments.

thanks Dave 

In very nice condition having been blasted and then powder coated, the main mating surface to the diff casing has been trued to be absolutely flat. Furthermore, the two piece mating surfaces have been treated with Waxoyl before bolting together to minimise any chance of corrosion between the two parts.

Link to Classifieds is here:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/83

If this could be of interest, please PM me your contact details etc

Cheers Rich C-R

As the mechanical fuel pump on the 250 has an oil leak from the priming lever pivot and the quality of new ones suspect I’m pondering the fitting of an electric pump , are Facet still the go to or is there other options ?
Chris

 It’s a TR250 I’m trying to evaluate from pictures, not a good idea I know, but needs must. 
cheers

 Graham

going great then bang 1969 car bites back those screws into the wings two are rock solid even using my torque driver

i have put some liquid spanner and WD40 for overnight soak

any useful hints

David

how do you get the photo to rotate

Backlight Window Seal

Has anyone experience/advice on cutting out the holes in the rear valence. Is it just a case of marking out a suitable size rectangle, and cutting out, or should there be some form of bending or shaping of the edges. (It is of course already shaped for the cut-out)

A bit of an 'anorak' question. Looking at the outer rear wing 'bolts'. Moss offer a choice between the 5/8ths bolt at 28P each, and the 3/4in. at  £1.40.each.! They are both 1/4in. diameter. There are plenty of similar Acme/Spire bolts on the internet of different lengths at cheap prices, the only difference being that the Moss item has the Acme square thread, whereas the ones on the internet all seem to be screw type threads, (although they are pointed and would be easier to locate in the hole.). Any reason why I shouldn't use the ones from the internet?.

Thanks.

Dave.

Temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge dont have a little blue jewel in the hole where the bulb goes in , all other dials both large and ammeter, fuel gauge i can see blue jewels in the hole where the bulb inserts.

i also have a spare CP oil gauge and that has no jewel.

so my question is , for a TR5 should the  the instrument lighting be  a blue tint, if that is correct, how is the blue tint added to the lighting for oil pressure/ temp gauges. do i need open up and have a look, or are they the incorrect gauges ., any thoughts before i pull offending gauges apart 

thanks Dave