Most of this material is out of print. It is well-known to many who use the TR Register Forum. But if you are a new owner, or considering purchasing a TR, you will find many valuable resources that provide essential background knowledge or technical, hands-on advice for restoration or maintenance.

True, books can be found online, second hand, but this library enables you to gain immediate access for consultation. If you know of useful material, including links to youtube TR teach-ins, please add your links in the response section below and I shall add them to the list. The ambition is to gather all scattered materials in a one-stop, expanding library resource, free of charge and available to all.

1. TerriAnn's Triumph TR website. Go to: http://www.tr3a.info/index.htm

This site contains valuable articles by TerriAnn, an American TR3A owner who bought her TR in 1986 and restored it herself. She launched her site in 1998. (The most recent addition is dated 2020).

It is organized into: 1. Articles 2. Data mine 3. Links.

Very accessible, providing practical advice to help new owners understand the peculiarities of Triumph TRs, how to service and repair them, or tune them.

As well as an account of her own restoration, the site provides a wealth of resources, including, for example, TR2-4A cylinder head information and specs, how to convert a positive earth car to negative earth, practical guide to Weber carburettors for TRs, common rust areas, a collection of articles by different TR experts, including the famous Kas Kastner, on a range of recurring issues and problems.

Also, TR Register of America "Judging Standards and Restoration Guide" (2004 revised edn.). Helpful as a buyer's guide, if originality is considered important, or a bargaining lever, when a car for sale has the wrong grille or back end, for example.

TerriAnn also provides access to original Triumph period Service Bulletins, scanned as PDFs (1954-1965). From 1954, Standard-Triumph issued bulletins as "Service Information Sheets". Credits: Joe Curry's print copies were scanned into PDF format by Michael Porter. First posted online by Dan Buettner, then collected and included in TerriAnn's website.

2. A US 1954 review of the TR2

This includes both the full, readable, text and reproductions of the original illustrated article. The author, Tom McCahill, was highly respected by Alec Pringle who corresponded with him many years ago.

Tom McCahill, "MI Tests the Triumph TR2", Mechanix Illustrated, August 1954.
http://blog.modernmechanix.com/tag/auto-reviews/

2a. Richard Heseltine, "1959-1961 Triumph Italia 2000", Drives Today, 8 February 2021.
https://drives.today/articles/155/retro/1959-1961-triumph-italia-2000/richard-heseltine.html

3. Continental tyres manual

https://blobs.continental-tires.com/www8/servlet/blob/85806/30cec2cae7fa004e1eae3b0f560e449f/download-technical-databook-data.pdf

4. On South African CKD sidescreen cars:

http://motor-assemblies.blogspot.com/?m=0

5. Screen assembly, by Stuart Edwards

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40017

6. Advice on fitting rag top (hood) and windshield

http://tr3a.info/sticks.htm

7. Tuning H series SUs from Burlen website

https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-h-type-carburetter-tuning-multi

8. Paint charts, courtesy of VTR

http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/paint-charts/index.shtml

9. Velocity stacks (ram pipes)

9a Explanation 

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp104.htm

9b Production Drawing  https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp104a.htm

9c Rolling road Test

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp104b.htm

10. Antifreeze and advice not to buy OATs

Richard Meyer's advice on which antifreeze to pick:

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_121.htm

11. A-Type Laycock-De Normanville Overdrive:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42516

12. R. D. Franck, Weber tuning

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42609

13. Some duplication, but worth scrolling through for whatever you need:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl

14. J.B. Calvert, "How a CV Joint Works", 25 January 2007.

Source:http://mysite.du.edu/~etuttle/tech/cv.htm

15. Windtone horns, courtesy of Ian Vincent

Source: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=44949

16. SU Carb Guru Dave DuBois. The following links take you to the technical writings of the world famous expert.

DuBois was a gifted technician who used his experience to bring simple fixes to some of the perplexing problems of our cars, mostly related to electrical contacts, fuel pumps and safety. Until 2019, his writings were available online. For almost 50 years he graced enthusiasts with solid advice, good humour and perfectly working fuel pumps. He is sorely missed, but his son, Dave DuBois, has granted permission to publish his writings online The links will open in a new window.

http://www.dbraun99.com/Dave DuBois/

17. 1950s Overseas Lucas Technical Correspondence Course

Ideal for early TR2 owners: 1950s Overseas Lucas Technical Correspondence Course. Go to:

http://www.dbraun99.com/Technical Index/Lucas technical correspondence course SEARCHABLE binder.pdf

18. How to identify what distributor is fitted to your TR
Clear demonstration. Includes short youtube footage.
https://blog.simonbbc.com/about-distributors/identify-my-distributor/

19. Chart from www.starchak.ca listing Lucas distributor models.

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf

(NB. The distributor type number is stamped into the side of the body, immediately below the top of the metal rim on the side facing away from the engine.).

20. Craig Landum, "Repair Instructions for TR2-3A turning signal mechanism on steering wheel control head"

Instructions for removing the steering wheel control head

Peter Wigglesworth: "Not hard to get the horn push out.  Three screws at the steering wheel boss. Disconnect the 4 wires near the  horn that connect to the loom. Pull the horn push toward you as someone helps feed the wires up the stator tube. You can get the horn push control in your lap to fiddle with, without pulling the wires up the stator tube."

Craig Landum, For repair Instructions for TR2-3A turning signal mechanism on steering wheel control head, go to:
Craig Lundrum, 2009 http://xjguy.com/triumph/tr3a_turn_signal_mechanism.pdf
See also:
Clive Elsdon, http://www.ovtc.net/uploads/9/5/1/6/9516577/tr3_control_head-disassemble_-_clive_elsdon.pdf

21. TR 3A Step-by-Step Carpet Installation
https://triumphtr3b.wordpress.com/2020/05/08/installing-moss-carpet-kit-in-a-triumph-tr3a/

22. Larry and Tom Young, "Triumph Cams", Tilden Technologies, LLC (online), 2011
[About TR2-4 camshafts, including comparative technical table, based on manufacturers' data.]. (Courtesy of Ian Vincent who provided the link).

http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/TriumphCams.html

23. Buckeye Triumphs, "A-type and J-type Laycock De Normanville Overdrive"

Technical article available online, courtesy of a member of Buckeye Triumphs, Delaware, USA

The Buckeye Triumphs site contains technical articles on brakes, body and miscellaneous, carburettors, clutch, gearbox, A- and J-type overdrives, mechanical, steering, and suspension (and their Newsletters 1999-2011).

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox

24. Gulf Lubrication Chart TR2-4A (just click on image below).

25. TR 4-4A Lube Chart

Courtesy of Ian Cornish. The chart is fairly legible when you enlarge the image. I you seek a perfect copy, do contact the TR Register Office who sell them at a very reasonable price.

26. Weber DCOE Theory, Operation, and Tuning (with links to youtube demos and several other sites) Illustrated guide:

http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

27. Dave Andrews, "Selection and Tuning of Weber DCOE"
http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/webers

[NB. Dave Andrews set up and runs DVA Power, a small company situated in Milton Keynes specializing in engine tuning and building.]

28. How to fit TR2-3-3A-3B Bonnet Dzus Fastener Assembly. Moss pdf

https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/802-918_980-178_INST.pdf

29. Mostly TR4-4A Manuals, technical articles, and entire books on tuning TR engines by Kastner, Vizard, and Williams.

http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr-pdf-downloads.html

[Credit: Thanks to Paul Anderson who sent the link to this material, originally compiled by Randall Young, a long-term owner of TR3As and Triumph Stags in Southern California.]

30. A Guide to Tuning Weber Carburettors, Borg-Warner, 1976 2nd edn. [PDF]
Includes suggested settings for Triumph TR2-3A and Triumph 2000. Clear explanations. Helpful.
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/knmYWkaKt7FU

31. Des Hammill, How to Build and Power Tune Weber and Dell'Orto DCOE, DCO/SP, and DHLA Carburettors, Dorchester: Veloce Publishing, 3rd edn. 2018

Practical, user friendly guide, explaining the workings, but concentrating on how to go about configuring your carburettors, by explaining what  chokes, jets, emulsion tubes and so on are available and how to choose the right ones for your Webers or Dell'Ortos, depending on use and engine configuration. Well-illustrated, lots of explanatory diagrams.

https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/9csmWa2V09RJ

32. Understanding the Weber Carburettor (Part 1)

This is understandable and even useful, but only after reading some of the texts above. It complements them well, but I think it would only be confusing to watch this first.

33. Bellows-type thermostats (TR2-4)

This explanation of how bellows thermostats function deals with thermostats fitted to early XK Jaguars. But it is helpful to understand how they work, including on Triumph TRs. Thanks to Phil Brown for signposting this fact sheet within the Forum.

http://www.bobine.nl/jaguar/02-engine/thermostats-for-jaguar-xk-120-140-and-150/

34. Which “Viton” is the one to order? The following document explains the technicalities surrounding these seals and why you must specify “Viton Grade B” for O-rings and oil seals and get confirmation from your supplier that this is one in stock. [Credit: Thanks to Waldi for posting].

eriks - viton fluoroelastomers an overview (1).pdf

35. Velocity stacks [pls add any other info you have]

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/power/pp104.htm

36. Description of SAH (Sid. A. Hurrell) tuning catalogue TR2-4

https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/sah-triumphtune.htm

37. Alternator fitment and conversion, pages from The Unipart Rotating Electrics, go to: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=59372

38. How to fit TR2-3-3A-3B Bonnet Dzus Fastener Assembly [Moss pdf]. Go to: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/802-918_980-178_INST.pdf

39. Training Video on TR6 TR7 TR8  Lucas wiper motor. Refers to Jaguar and MG, but the basic motor is the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aSaBMPp8ZM

40. "A" Type Overdrive Instructions
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=60187

41. The Standard-Triumph Hardware Catalogue.

7Useful accompaniment to the TR2-3A Spare Parts Catalogue (4th edition). Invaluable resource, since it cross-references all the fastener details used by Standard Triumph.
http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/standard_triumph_hardware_catalog.pdf

42. TR6 Repair Manual (second edn.) "Brown Bible", in pdf format

https://britishcarbreakfastclubcom.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/tr6_repair_manual.pdf

43. "H" type SU carburettors
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/carb.htm

44. SU Carburettors (all types), Technical articles by Burlen Ltd.
https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-h-type-carburetter-reassembly
 

Many of us travel around the UK or Europe with our cars or bits of cars on trailers in vans etc. The idea is to help out other members of the register who may need a part moving or picking up.

I realise that this could lead to some "tricky situations" which Im sure we can all imagine . So lets keep it simple: no money should change hands, and lets hope it works on the basis of a good old fashioned handshake between like minded TR owners.

On a positive note, this exchange of friendly help may lead to new contacts and an exchange of knowledge and experiences outside of our regional clubs.

So, if you are traveling with an empty van to collect your new stage 3 engine from the other side of the country, let us know on this thread, perhaps someone may have a front wing that needs dropping off for a re-spray. In exchange it gives you a stop off the motorway for a nice mug of tea in someones TR workshop.

Hope this works,

Richard.

Roy

Approaching the 50th anniversary of the TR4's launch, I asked Castrol whether we might reproduce the TR4/4A chart, and permission was granted at no cost, so we produced a laminated version from my master copy for the TR4@50 event at the International at Harrogate in 2011.

A few months ago, Jo Whitty asked me about the TR2/3 version, so I lent her my master copy and the office now has both the TR2/3 and the TR4/4A charts available in laminated form, so ideal for the garage wall!

At the NEC Show, Jo asked me whether I had the TR6 chart. I don't, but I am wondering whether any member has the chart in a decent state (not torn or covered in grubby finger marks!) and would be prepared to loan it for a short while in order that copies may be produced. If so, please let me know by PM or by email to my home (see page 82 of TR Action).

Lest anyone be concerned about copyright, Castrol granted permission for reproduction by the TR Register of the lubrication charts on all TR models for the benefit of our members, and Jo has a copy of that letter.

Ian Cornish

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/43069-cellulose-two-pack-or-what/

When you click on it you arrive at the new home page…..

Is this a temporary problem or has the migration resulted irretrievably broken links?

Tia

Iain

I have an item up for sale on the Register site. I am in email contact with a buyer, but it somehow doesn't seem right - odd use of English and other things. He (?) wants to pay by cheque, wanted my address & phone number, didn't want bank transfer. Anyhow, I have given my address and phone, he says he will sort the carrier. I then get a message saying the cheque will include the carrier fee? Is this the overpayment scam, collecting my details?

The guys name is Chris Towne. Register member?

"Thanks for the details sent . 

I will update you once i confirm the payment issued and sent to your mailing address later today. 

The shipping funds will be included on the payment . I will give you further directives on how to communicate with the carrier as regards the best time for the collection when cheque has cleared.

I hope i can trust and confide in you.

Reserve it for me alone , tell other buyers it is sold . ok

I will keep you posted soon about the payment sent ."

Adrian 

Does anyone have experience of this and do the benefits justify the costs..   

Apart from the outer visible area's which will likely need further preparation to get the pefect finish, once primed and e-coated, it normal practice to simply apply paint straight to the body... in particular the inner and bottom (unseen) areas, or are other processes required?

Thanks

Keith

The ammeter is a useful instrument which can tell the user a lot about how the car electrics are functioning and what the state of the battery is.  It is intended to show what current is flowing into and out of the battery and it can only do that properly if the wiring is correct. It ought to be connected like this:

As the battery charges, current flows through the ammeter:

Other than for operating the starter, the only time the battery supplies current is when the engine is not running and  the generator (dynamo or alternator) is not working.  Apart from a few minutes after starting, while the battery is recharging, the ammeter should always show zero current if all is well. A discharge is only shown if the generator is not working or is unable to supply sufficient current and power is being drawn from the battery.

When the engine is running above idle speed, all the electrical power for the car comes from the generator .   It follows that all connections to the car circuits, other than the starter, should be connected directly to the generator output.    

If loads are connected directly to the battery instead, then the current to them from the generator will flow through the ammeter and is indicated as a continuous  ‘charge’.  This is incorrect but extra circuits for new devices are often connected that way by owners who do not understand this, because it is convenient to make the connection there.

When installing an alternator in place of the dynamo, sometimes an incorrect connection is made direct from the alternator to the battery.  In this case all currents drawn during normal running will show as a discharge on the ammeter and battery charging current will not be indicated.

What an ammeter can tell you:

When the ignition is turned on a small irregular discharge is shown during cranking. This shows the ignition and points are working.

When the engine starts there will be an initial high current charge indicated. This should reduce fairly quickly and the charge will then continue to drop at a slower rate over a few minutes until it settles at zero.  That shows the generator is providing a sufficient charge and that the battery is  working properly.

If the current reduces very rapidly to zero the generator may not be working properly or the battery may be losing capacity.

If a charge continues to be shown after some time it  may be the generator is producing too high a voltage or the battery is not charging properly.

If no charge is seen immediately after starting then there is something wrong with the generator or the fan belt that drives it.

When driving, the ammeter should show zero current all the time. If a discharge is indicated there is something wrong with the generator or the fan belt.   

( It is possible when driving at night and using lights, wipers, cooling fan etc simultaneously , that a car with a dynamo may show a small discharge. This is because the dynamo output is limited and may not be able to supply enough power for all the demand, though it may also be an indication that not all is well with the dynamo.)

With the engine not running, when turning on individual loads -e.g. brake lights - the current drawn will be shown as a discharge on the ammeter, indicating that the circuit is working correctly. (If LED bulbs  have been fitted the current will be very low of course and may just be a small twitch on the needle.)

Advice needed on how to fit/secure the pesky dust cover to the back  plate  that comes with the cylinder retaining kit. 

It can't be held under the clips as the cylinder would not be able to float? There is no lip to hold it over the three clips when in position? Other that being held at one end where it passes through the handbrake lever, it's  just left to float which does not seem to be correct.

Advice wanted.

Thanks

Rich 

Coils 2.pdf

Many thanks to Menno for starting this.

these replies have been contributed by members and will be added to for your help.

Please post your ideas on a separate post and I will transfer them - Roger

1. Grill: use an original shaped grill. Later, aftermarket grills have smaller holes. Up to 20 - 25 % smaller.

When in doubt, remove the complete grill for a while and see what happens. (Great suggestion by Don H.)

2. The cardboard air duct is a MUST! In essence the wide mouth grill is a design flaw when it comes to cooling

Without the air duct, too much air will pass the radiator on all sides without being funneled through the radiator.

3. Without saying: the radiator has to be in good condition.

4. Ditch the starter hole in the middle of the radiator. Have the radiator re-cored without the hole (+20% more cooling effect).

Perhaps an 'originality feature' and you will loose points on concours day. But these cars are made for driving, not for their beauty.

5. Use the original pressure cap (4 lbs, I think) 1 inch (25.4mm) is the correct projection.

6. Install an overflow bottle: the tube next to the radiator cap can be routed into the overflow bottle. Special rad cap required.

And there are more sophisticated systems pictured on the forum.

7. Don't overfill the radiator: when cold, with the cap removed, the fluid is about 1 - 1.5 inch under the neck

8. Use proper coolant. Blucol, Halfords Silicate etc etc But NOT OAT (usually pink)

9. Hoses from and to the radiator: make sure that these are fine condition. When in doubt, replace them. No need for fancy silicon hoses.

10. The attachment of the radiator filling neck and housing is vulnerable for cracks. Make sure it doesn't leak. And don't lean on the neck

when inspecting the engine bay.

11. Cam timing must be spot on.

12. Fuel mixture too weak and it will run hot

13. Water ways in the block must be clean, especially around cyl 4 and the drain plug.

14. A rich mixture may increase the temp.

15. Modern (Ethanol) fuel will increase the temp

16. Get rid of any air lock in the system particularly after filling. Fill with water open heater get engine hot with filler cap off ,

watch the gauge pump the hoses and wait for gurgle.

17, area between the radiator and the front of the engine:

the original fan is hardly up to the job. Has to do with the 4 blade design and the rake (is that the word here) of the blades:

very flat. Often, the fan is replaced with an aftermarket electric fan.

18. When removing the fan, be aware of the fact that you need to change the front end of the shaft *need input here, what to replace*

19. An aftermarket fan can be found on a scrapyard. You can also opt for a Kenlowe, Pacet or Revotec fan.

Be aware that there are 'pullers' (pulling air through the radiator) or 'pushers' (need to be mounted in front of the radiator.

Some fans can be altered from puller to pusher (and vv) by switching the leads.

20. Consider a proper mounting bracket for the fan. The 'through the rad' pins are known to destroy the core of the radiator...

20.1: Get a 8 blade fan from a TR6 (The Roadster Factory part #308353)

21. Connecting the thermoswitch can be done with inserting a probe in the upper hose (Kenlowe) or a special connector in the hockey

stick shaped downpipe of the cooling system. *The temp of the thermoswitch suited for the TR can be discussed here...*

NOTE -My Kenlowe just has the thermal sensor bulb wired to the header tank, in the 'corner' between the lower edge of the

tank and the cores. Seems to work fine.

22. best thing i did was to fit standard 82deg waxstat and fit a restrictor in the bypass hose warms up quicker and stays cool even with

standard fan been done to death on this forum already..

23. Cam condition/correct valve lift as a factor in addition to cam timing may/will raise the temp - slow process but worth a look.

24. Only thing I have not seen mentioned is the benefit of a proper 6-blade tropical fan.

25. TR4 Original grill, spot it a mile away. Every fin/ vane has a end cut out which allows you to BEND the vane to increase or reduce the

airflow. Needs care !

26. TR4 -Air duct is a must, however, the 2 inch gap either side benefits from being closed up also, easy to do

27, Heat soak: Big Iron lump. If you have an electric fan with an overide, switch it on when you hit traffic,

easier to avoid the overheat that triggers the thermo switch than to drag the temp down afterwards

28. Are you basing the temperature on indicated temp of the cars gauge and sender. Or actual temp via a known accurate system ?

How about the use of water wetters ? As these also have useful inhibitors

29. Retarded spark timing will cause hotter running. If the vac advnace capsule isnt working correctly to advance the spark at cruise, then that would lead to retarded running.

30. If not using an original bellows thermostat the bypass hose will need sleeving down by inserting a short piece of smaller bore hose.

This prevents too much of the water flow bypassing the radiator. The original bellows stat took care of this by restricting flow though

the bypass hose as it opens. A standard modern thermostat simply opens. The water simply follows the path of least resistance

and quite a lot will return via the bypass hose without being cooled

31. Cheap **** water pumps,too bigger gap between impeller and body,OK running round,not efficient at higher revs,or even an original

pump can cavitation if impeller set wrongly,worth checking?.

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"This schedule I've just revised to take into account the April 2015 Royal Mail changes, and I've appended a link to this post so that anyone can refer to for their own reference.

Living in a rural area, I have the carriers collect the parcels, MyHermes and UPS alike – those of you in more populated areas may be able to save a few bob by using the local parcel shop dropoff facility. Thankfully we do still have a Post Office.

The schedule is quite simply the amount that I charge for P&P on my ebay listings, and covers UK, Europe and Worldwide. I can't be bothered with Royal Mail's World Zones 1 and 2, I just round up to an average.

Prices take into account the 15% that has to be added to cover eBay and PayPal fees, not everyone realises that P&P bears commission just as does the item sold.

Also taken into account is a modest amount for packaging – bubble envelope, board envelope, carton and bubblewrap, whatever.

I find that I can source some decent packaging from the village shops (the electrical shop is especially good, as is the car main dealer), the local industrial estate, the bike shop in the neighbouring town for panel size boxes, and what I can't scrounge I buy on ebay from - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Packaging-Monkeys

My packaging is on a very simple principle – I assume that parcel depot rock apes will either kick my parcels with their steel toe caps, or play rugby with them in the yard. So I pack to withstand that. And I've not yet had anything broken in transit (famous last words!). And the label gets sellotaped all over, it can't come off."

Alec Pringle

EBAY P&P UK Large Letter

Royal Mail

All UK including Channel Islands, Northern Ireland, Isle of Man etc

£20 - 2nd £50 – 1^st Signed £500 – Special

Delivery 1pm

100gm 1.25 2.95 8.00

250gm 1.75 3.25 9.00

500gm 2.25 3.75 9.00

750gm 2.75 4.75 11.00

Large Letter – 35 x 25 x 2.5cms, max 750gms

Packaging weights

A5 board envelope, A5 jiffy bag, A4 plain envelope - 30gm

A4 Jiffy bag, A4 board envelope - 60gm

EBAY P&P UK Small Parcel

Royal Mail

All UK including Channel Islands, Northern Ireland, Isle of Man

£20 - 2nd £50 – 2^nd Signed £500 - Special

Delivery 1pm

500gm 3.95 5.50 9.00

1000gm 3.95 5.50 11.00

2000gm 3.95 5.50 14.00

Small parcel – Max 2kgs

Size - 45 x 35 x 16cms

Tubes up to 90cms, BUT max length + (2 x diameter) max 104cms

Packaging weights

Jiffy bag – 50gms

EBAY P&P UK Medium Parcel

Royal Mail

£20 - 2nd £50 – 2^nd Signed £500 – Special Delivery

1pm

All UK – but relevant for Channel Islands, and IM HS ZE postcodes only

1000gm 6.75 7.95 11.00

2000gm 6.75 7.95 14.00

All UK – but relevant for Channel Islands only

Other UK use carriers above 2kg

5kgs 17.50 19.00 33.00

10kgs 25.50 27.00 33.00

Medium parcel - 61 x 46 x 46cms Max 20kgs

Packaging weights

Box 5 – 10 lts up to 250gms

Box 10 – 25lts up to 500gms

EBAY P&P UK My Hermes - signature

£50 compensation cover per consignment

£100 compensation cover + £1.50

£250 compensation cover + £3.00

Highlands, Islands IM HS ZE postcodes supplement + £2.50

- no delivery to Channel Islands

UK Mainland & N Ireland

0-1kg 4.95

1-2kg 6.25

2-5kg 7.95

5-10kg 9.95

10-15kg 13.50

Max weight 15kgs Max length 120cms

Max dimensions : longest + 2(shorter + shortest) =

www.myhermes.co.uk

EBAY P&P UK Interparcel UPS UK Standard

48 hour service

UK mainland

£50 compensation £13.00

£100 £16.00

£150 £18.00 – Interparcel Premium

£250 £20.00

Over 20kgs weight or 60cms length check weight/size individually

Note that Premium may be most economical for larger and/or more valuable packages

Highlands, Islands, N Ireland check individually,

try both Interparcel and Parcel2go

www.interparcel.com

www.parcel2go.com

EBAY P&P International Large Letter

Royal Mail

Large Letter – 35 x 25 x 2.5cms, max 750gms

£20 compensation Standard / £50 Tracked & Signed or Signed

100gm Europe - 3.00 / 10.00 Worldwide - 4.00 / 11.00

250gm Europe - 4.50 / 11.00 Worldwide - 6.00 / 12.00

500gm Europe - 6.50 / 12.50 Worldwide - 9.50 / 15.00

750gm Europe - 8.00 / 13.50 Worldwide - 12.50 / 18.00

Compensation to £250 . . . . . T&S or S rate + £3 / package

Packaging weight letter 20 – 30gm

EBAY P&P International Printed Paper

Royal Mail

Max 5kgs, (Cambodia, Canada 2kgs; Ireland books only >2kg)

£20 compensation Standard

£50 Tracked & Signed or Signed

As per International Small Parcels rates, but over 2kgs the same increment for Standard, Signed, Tracked & Signed

Europe + £1.50 / 250gm Worldwide + £2.25 / 250gm

Compensation to £250 . . . . . T&S or S rate + £3 / package

EBAY P&P International Small Parcels

Royal Mail

£20 compensation Standard

£50 compensation Tracked & Signed or Signed

Worldwide Europe

100gm 4.50 / 10.00 5.00 / 11.00

250gm 5.00 / 11.00 6.50 / 12.00

500gm 6.50 / 12.50 10.00 / 15.00

750gm 8.50 / 13.50 13.00 / 18.00

1000gm 10.50 / 15.50 16.00 / 21.50

1250gm 12.00 / 17.00 18.50 / 23.50

1500gm 13.50 / 19.00 20.50 / 25.50

1750gm 15.00 / 19.50 23.00 / 27.00

2000gm 16.50 / 21.00 25.00 / 29.00

Compensation to £250 . . . . . T&S or S rate + £3 / package

Max weight 2kgs

Max length 60cms, BUT length + width + height max 90cms

Tubes up to 90cms, BUT max length + (2 x diameter) max 104cms

Packaging weights

A5 board envelope, A5 jiffy bag, A4 plain envelope - 30gm

A4 Jiffy bag, A4 board envelope - 60gm

Box

Box 5 – 10 lts up to 250gms

Box 10 – 25lts up to 500gms

EBAY P&P International

Medium / Large Parcel

Interparcel UPS is usually the best option, but check individual costs as weight and volume and dimension are all relevant.

£50 compensation cover per consignment

£100 compensation cover + £2.00

£250 compensation cover + £5.00

£500 compensation cover + £10.00

£1000 compensation cover + £20.00

and don’t forget VAT applies on delivery to EU countries

quotation + additional compensation if relevant = net cost (ex-VAT)

EU countries price @ net cost x 1.5

Non-EU countries price @ net cost x 1.25

Note large difference in delivery times between budget services and standard or express services

www.interparcel.com