I think I may have to finally make the switch to a Bosch conversion… after my ‘74 TR6 broke down on me a couple of weeks ago..

I’d had a great drive down to Goodwood breakfast Sunday.. about a 45 mile run.. but on the return, I’d done about 10-15 miles before the fuel pump cut out just after Haslemere.. on the main road.. ☹️.. 

Here’s the back story.. I still have the standard Lucas setup, which had been fine up to that point for years, although the fuel pressure was always a bit marginal.. even though I’d had the Lucas pump reconditioned about 10 years ago. It has only done about 5000 miles since (I know… not used enough!).. The tank was changed about 5 years ago and the PRV about 2 years ago by a London specialist when they tuned the car for me..

I really thought the gremlins had gone and was feeling comfortable with going further afield with my partner.. but now having to rethink.. I’m really looking for as close to a fit ‘once and for all’ solution so would be grateful for advice..?

I’ve read past posts about conversions and it seems there are several Bosch solutions out there, plus comments about enlarging the fuel feed pipe from the tank, but not sure how critical that is either?

Although cost is a consideration, it’s not the deciding factor.. I’m more interested in reliability, but hoping not to have to ditch the recent fuel tank!

look forward to replies as always..

Thanks in advance!
Richard
 

My car is a 73 TR6. 
 

The car originally (when I purchased it one year ago) , had a ballasted coil fitted (lucas DLB110) which was fed by a SINGLE cable to the positive side of the coil (white/yellow).. 

According to the wiring diagrams I have seen a ballasted coil should be fed with TWO CABLES (1) white/yellow from starter and (2) pink/white (the ballast resistance wire embedded in the loom) .from ignition switch.

So I’m thinking either the two cables are joined before the white/yellow reaches the coil OR has my car been modified in some way ? 

Any experienced auto electricians here ? 
 

Many thanks !

yesterday my pump overheated when we entered the show ground in Malvern. It started cavitating and the engine stopped.

I recently converted to a Malpassi PRV, which developed a  “whistle” during starting during our journey from Holland to Malvern.

Fuel tank was full with a bit warm (but far from) hot fuel. The suction filter and lines were not blocked and there was abundant flow to the pump. The pump was very hot, the suction filter not at all.

I thought it was the 7-year old Bosch pump that may had reduced in flow rate to the point of little/no flow back to tank; replaced that, it gave no improvement. The new pump rapidly overheated and started cavitating too. So that was a wrong assumption, looking back.

I then replaced the new Malpassi prv by the original and the issue was solved. So I now believe the return flow from pump to tank was drastically reduced by the Malpassi.

Finally I re-installed the 7-year old Bosch pump, but found out  during installation I had no more metal gasket rings for the Bosch pump with me (2 larger and 1 small ring). The smaller ring is now sweating, not 100% tight.

So if anyone coming to Malvern this weekend has a set they are willing to sell me that would be great.
Or if you know an automotive shop in the area, I would be interested too. Off course, I will visit the traders on site.

Thank you,
Waldi

Collection form SP11 area or can take to Car Club Fest at Malvern

it showed at 6 so I redid the cam crank timing and figured that I had initially done it wrong when I first did the rebuild.  
 

Anyhow being meticulous this time, the vacuum has not improved. All areas ‘look’ fine but clearly something is still off.

some other relevant information; 160ish psi on all cylinders. refurbished throttle bodies from Martin Giles a number of years ago. New throttle body hoses, vacuum hoses and rebuilt metering unit around 4 years ago.

i don’t think it’s my guage as I can sick on it past 5 so I know it goes beyond 5.

Im really struggling where to look next.

ideas please.

Thanks

Tim

Yup it was our old archenemy fuel vapour lock🤬 which has never happened before in +/-5 yrs❗️ Already did all the insulating but not the heat shield yet( this winter list)  Lucky for us our neighbour was able to bring a 5L can of cold fresh go-juice after I’d let it sit. Made it home, now in the garage. 

Could somebody please share the link to how to build your own fuel cooler. I did some searches but they were inconclusive and I’m sure I wasn’t alone in this experience given temperatures.

I have a 1969 TR6 and have been wondering what the steel wheels look like under the Rostyle trims. Are the wheels unique or have features to fit the trims.

I have neither fitted to mine and I'm just considering changing them for the original look.

Cheers

Jon

Re fitting

My car has had the replacement plastic headlight bowls fitted, wondering if that could be an issue with depth as I believe the plastic ones are not so deep as the original metal? 
Will I need to get a pair of metal bowls. 
thanks for you help 

I'm looking for an original gear knob for my 69 TR6..... PM me if you have one available for sale.

Kind regards

Jon

What should I start looking at?

Clive

many thanks

The mounting brackets for the steering rack are the original rubber type with U bolts. I don’t have the special tool as mentioned in the manual but I have managed to make the installation without too much play in the steering using a pair of mole grips to pre compress the rubber. I also found I could improve the situation by loosening the clamps one at a time and putting the steering on full lock to compress the rubber before tightening. Unfortunately it still isn’t as good as it was before I removed the steering rack.

Is the special tool the only way to do this? Is it possible to fabricate a tool to do the same job or is there a good technique for this without the special tool?

I look forward to hearing your thoughts

Cheers, Rob

my question is with the pump running and car on tick over is   38 degrees  after 5mins too high.

Yyour thoughts please.

Keviin

Can anyone point me at a good supplier for a roll bar that will allow me to retain the hood.

Thanks

Phil

I called into car parts direct, they sold me a Coopers FLAAM or FIAAM  PT. No FT4788. It is an alternative for HDF296 and GFL5296. It is marked as a diesel filter and is common on Volvo boat engines.

I seem to remember Stuart saying that diesel filters are a finer filter element and will clog sooner than the petrol specific filters.

I'm sure it is ok to use and the cross reference car parts direct use says it's a replacement for gfl5296 

I'm wondering if anybody has used this filter.

TR6 Lucas pump BTW

Ken.

Whilst removing the plenum, the metering screw became dislodged and came out! It had been held in place with a glue which had become hard and brittle.

What is the best way to put back in securely? 

I bought a new one from Rimmers and found it very stiff to turn and "notchy" when exercised on the bench. I returned it and got replacement but found that the same. I note that the pinion pressure pad adjustment has been removed and replaced with a hex socket insert with what looks like sealing marks so not to be adjusted.

I'm reluctant to put it the car whilst it seems so stiff. There's no way that the manual operation of a 2lb weight at. 8 inches would turn it.

Any ideas?

thanks

David

Previously I've used NGK BP6ES (single electrode), NGK BUR6ET (triple electrode) and BOSCH W7DTC (triple electrode).

Although I have a set of single electrode Bosch resistor plugs, I've never used them as I learned there's losses when using resistor plugs, better to have maximum spark, though apparently suppressed plugs produce a longer lasting spark (though weaker at any given moment).

Before I fit the Bosch Super 4 plugs (yes resistor plugs), I lined up all the new spare plugs I have, Bosch, NGK and Champion.

The construction and materials of the Champion plug is definitely inferior, as if the silver coating is flaking off (notable on the outer electrode)! - the barrel ahead of the nut is also very different to the others, chunky. The central electrode has the largest diameter, the 2nd largest is the Bosch WR7DC (which is quite different to the WR8DC - and in the finishing of the ceramic end around the central electrode).

The Bosch triple has a notably long exposed central electrode, and which extends furthest into the cylinder of all the plugs... along with the NGK triple which has a very similar design, though with a slightly narrower central electrode...

Here's some close ups of the other plugs...

I also checked the resistence of the plugs,

Plugs without an internal resistor :

NGK BP6ES : 0.2 - 0.5 Ω

Bosch W7DTC : 0.3 Ω

Champion N9YC : 1 Ω

Plugs with an internal resistor :

Bosch WR78 (Super 4) : 5,860 Ω

Bosch WR7DC : 6,230 Ω

Bosch WR8DC : 4,780 Ω

___________________________

HT Leads (shortest and longest leads measured) :

Magnecor 7mm
7.5”     2,100 Ω
13”      3,800 Ω

PowerSpark 8mm
12.5”   1,600 Ω
21”       2,540 Ω

Lucas 800
8.5”     7,200 Ω
15.5”   11,600 Ω

/

No conclusions here, just thought you might like to see the above, and it might be of some use that I don't know of.

I bought a TR5 2007. I wonder what type of springs I have at rear. They are marked yellow and green. The spring diameter is 14,3 mm. I don´t know the length. They are still on the car. The car had a full restauration 2001. I think the springs are from 2001.