Having met a white van man on the wrong side of a country lane recently ( him ..not me ) I'm considering upgrading the brakes on my 72 TR6. The standard set up works reasonably well but it would be good if the stopping distance could be safely reduced when situations like this arise.

Having read numerous threads ( some quite old) I wondered if there is currently  any consensus regarding this. Primarily I'm looking at the front and see complete kits vented discs , 4 piston calipers are available but at quite a price. There are also lots of references to Toyota early pick up calipers.Rear disc conversion looks very complicated but there are references to brake cylinders with larger bores from Morgan and Sunbeam Tiger. I understand pad are quite a consideration and Mintex 1144 and Ferodo FD S167 seem to crop up.

So what upgrades are worthwhile and how complicated are they.

Thanks  Phil

My Q is it appears to be a simple-as unbolt the defective one, and add the new one.

Correct or are there any gotchas I should be aware of? In some ways I was considering just leaving it as-is given it has 3 good sides, and carrying the replacement in the boot but thought I'd check with the collective first.

Old unit:

New Replacement unit:

https://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps

Any experience sharing is appreciated!

My steering wheel has been squeaking for a while and as I have the clocks out, could anyone point me in the right direction to eliminate the squeak please.

Im sure there will be na element of steering column wiggling, so will await wise words before refitting the clocks.

Thanks !

Does anyone have a photo of where the spring clips fit with the front brake pad fitting kit (the bent wire on the top RH below) ? I'm unsure which way round . . . end clips to the pin on the outside of the caliper . . or the inside . . ? 

Thanks! I'v looked everywhere and can't find a picture!

Any ideas why the injector in position 3 keeps failing. I bleed into a jar and get a good cone of spray. Car runs fine but Injector then stops working after 4 or 20 or as per yesterday 120 miles. I was about to take my second run up Prescott so really frustrating. It is always no 3. I then fit and bleed a reconditioned injector but the problem repeats . Three times at the end of last year and three times already this year. In my previous 48 years with the car I think I only had two failures, the central pin dropping and a disintegrated O ring. Where should I look for the cause? Grateful for all suggestions.

Regards 

Les

Cheers,

Paul

The car is an off-chassis restoration with full chassis/body repairs to a very high standard. The paintwork and gaps are perfect with doors, boot and bonnet fitting very well. Mechanically wise much has been replaced: metering unit, brakes all round (callipers, rotors etc.), master and slave clutch cylinders, complete stainless exhaust - The list goes on. The thing that bothers me is the car stood for 10+ years that I understand is not good for internals which, are difficult to check.

The car is pretty much original from seats, flooring to jasmine yellow paintwork though additional work is required to bring it to a very high standard. As a prospective buyer what should I be asking the dealer to do to convince me this is the right car for me. I'm happy to pay for a good example - How do you know?

I could ramble on but if you have any advice or question please reply 

Thanks - Chimz

I wasn't brave enough to stripdown the overdrive during the rebuild, and only replaced the rear oil seal, but this did mean that I removed the locknut and washer. There doesn't seem to be any mention of this needing any pre-load, only the torque being set to 80-130 lbf ft. 

The overdrive is completely silent when not engaged, and the whine does reduce when not under load.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Cheers, Robert

 I just added a 76 TR6 to my stable. Is there anybody running 16 x 7 rims on there car. I put 15 inch on my Jensen Healey with Dunlop Direzza 205 tires and they fit perfect. No issues.

 I take delivery of the TR6 on Saturday. Its been 18 years since I sold my 1975. I have been driving my Lotus Esprit for the past 10 years but missed my TR6 and decided to get abother.

 Your input would be appreciated.

Jenna

Specifics regarding fit and performance from anyone who has one would be very helpful.  

Does the manifold sit much below the chassis and reduce ground clearance?

Also does it work/fit with the standard starter motor?

I currently have the non-recommended TT1200 6-2-2 setup (into twin wheelbarrows) which is essentially two separate manifolds - 123 + 456.  The Revington is also described as 123 + 456 going into a Y piece into 1.  Presumably the equal length of all the primaries is what makes this one work better but I would be very interested to hear from anyone who has one installed.

The engine I have is biased towards torque which really suits the way I drive so I’m hoping this manifold might be a better match and benefit the mid range.  I’m not really looking for more top end power but if that increases that’s no bad thing either.

As an aside, would fitting a Y piece to the TT1200 and going to a single big bore achieve some of what the Revington does at considerably less cost? I suspect not, but again real-world experience would be useful.

The third option which has been suggested is to install an X pipe immediately after the manifold.

Having RR’d the car recently I have a baseline to work from and hopefully once the process is complete there will be some useful data.  The fuelling seems to be nice and even across the cylinders now the throttles have been sorted.

Any other pertinent info would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

  I’m fitting a 123 dizzy to a friends 6, it has set advance curves. 
Has anyone got one fitted and if so what setting are they using. This is a standard CP

cheers Mark

Many thanks

Tim 

However, I have noticed a weird issue now. She starts from cold ok. She runs, but when I go to depress the throttle to pick the revs up, she can sometimes start to stall. Backing off the throttle stops this. Being a bit more forceful with the throttle seems to get past it some times… but it’s odd. It’s not all the time / it’s intermittent. 

I don’t know if this is a fuelling thing or possible an ignition issue. She’s got all new injectors and has new plugs (gapped as per the brown book), leads and dizzy cap. The distributor has been converted to accupspark electronic ignition, and also has a brand new rotor arm. I’ve not messed with the metering unit, bar hooking up a new choke cable to it.

I’m wondering if this might be something about the fuel getting to one or more of the cylinders… and the bog down is happening when I happen to open the throttle when one of the cylinders is supposed to be on a power stroke and isn’t getting anything. I know that all the fuel lines bar number one do have a noticeable pulse when running. Number one doesn’t. But when I take that injector out, I can see it firing. It’s very odd.

I wonder if the metering unit needs an overhaul. I don’t know what the history is on it. Any advice before I start throwing money at the problem?

Thanks

Jason

Any suggestions folks?

Pumps not that old, injectors all recently fitted as refurb units, new injector lines, replacement PRV and no leaks in fuel lines

Have  a fellow group member, whose TR6 generates considerable amounts of underbonnet heat,

so much so that when you raise the bonnet it notcibly hits you in the face, 

I've certainly never known another TR get as hot as this. engine temp is pretty normal, no overheating.

Proboblem is such that if say he waits to turn Right for a min or two, the car can bog down when he asks it to go.

Looking around the engine bay, it has a tubular six branch manifold, thats not lagged, I'm thinking this is a starting place?

Any thoughts?

John.

Thanks in advance as always!  This group is such a great resource! 

Any tell tale signs?

Thanks . . . 

For example: Time-sert inserts

https://time-serts.com/store/3-8-24-thread-repair-kit/

Any advice welcomed!