Recently I've been tidying up the vacuum piping and tuning the Edelbrock 1404 which is where I'm after some advice. Today probably isn't the best day for tuning given that it's me getting cooked under the bonnet but hey=ho. I've jetted and rodded the carb to stock settings and the car starts from cold and runs pretty well, but after a quick warming up run, I adjusted the idle screws as per owner's manual and tuning guides and the idle speed increased significantly to near 1500 rpm. This is adjusting to maximum vacuum on a gauge connected to the non-timed carb port. I don't have any more adjustment on the idle speed screw, it's fully backed out and the choke screw is disengaged.

Does anyone have similar experience and can they point me in the right direction please?

BTW, a quick test drive after tweaking the idle screws showed the car drives pretty well with a little bit of exhaust popping on overrun. It's a bit exciting with the 1500 rpm minimum though.

Hi

Looking for advice on tr7 no spark at new coil. I bought a new ballasted coil but recently discovered the ballast wire has been snipped by previous owner. The original coil was a ballasted coil and the car stared fine intil recently so changed the coil but has  had no affect. Any help and advice would be appreciated. 

The new Polybush, the blue one, all the way from Australia, goes in from the engine side

leaving the larger part of the bush in the engine bay.

I have put silicone on the outer edges, boiled it in water for 10 mins, swore and threatened it,

but the thing will NOT go int thole, How do you do it please.

Any hints gratefully received.

Cliff

The system comprises a number of elements including central pivot bolt, two rubber mounts and two end mounted harmonic damper weights. It is these weights that as the rubber mounts age pull the ends of the bumper down. Has anyone overcome this issue and made the bumper look part of the car as opposed to "just about to fall off" look?

I have noticed that there is what looks to be a capture nut mounted on the end of the bumper, where if there was a corresponding hole in the front  inner wing and a bolt put through, pull the end of the bumper into a more horizontal position. However doing this this would then potentially negate the damper effect of the system.

Another way I have heard is to shim the bottom (or top) of the rubber mounts to tilt the whole bumper and bring the ends upwards. Also taking off the two damper weights might help as well.

Anyone got over this issue?

I have a certificate of manufacture available below

https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates

but i would like to know more about it.  Are there any resources available or people in the industry who know about specific groups of cars, such as a group that went out as press cars and sprint cars for example?

Andy

That said I must say the driving experience is absolutely fantastic, it was a shame that I couldn't get it over to the IWE but I could get more spares in my Audi than the 7. I am sure that I will never recoupe the cost of doing the resto, but it's not about that is it? This car will be my winter driver here in France and on rainy days in the summer. I would also like to pass on my thanks to everyone on the forum who has helped me along the way. It's been worth it. Andy

A compression test provided the following results, No.1 - 160 psi, No.2 - 170 psi, No.3 - 155 psi, No,4 - 170 psi.

With 4-squirts of oil directly in to each cylinder readings were, No.1 - 170psi, No.2 - 190psi, No.3 - 160psi, No.4 - 190 psi.

Immediate thoughts were a ring issue, particularly on No.3, but with the head off the bores appear to be perfect. I would have thought that there may be some visible signs on the bores if the rings have broken, or whatever. I am currently checking valve sealing on the seats, but that also appears to be OK. I am looking for any possible causes of the issue prior to taking out the engine and stripping it down.

Does anyone know if there are issues with head gaskets allowing oil from the oilways to get into the cylinders, or perhaps valve guide/stem issues allowing oil into the cylinders. The engine was painstakingly completely rebuilt last year.

Any thoughts would be gratefully received.

Cliff

Thanks Richard 

John

Noticed today that a TR7/8 Development Car ? HOJ 156W is in the Historic Auction at Mercedes Benz World at Brooklands on 29th November, I am sure you guys will know about this car if it is genuine, loads of details on their website.. 

   Cheers Phil..

I have a Rover V8 engine, currently mounted in a non-Triumph project car.  It was rebuilt (fifteen?) years ago and the rebuilder is no longer available to ask about it.   The engine number, stamped on the left hand side of the block is S11D14277B.

In the published lists of Rover V8 engine numbers, the only one that starts with "S" is quoted as "S46D0000A" which corresponds in format, and indicates that it was from a "Morgan+8 9.35:1 CR"

Therefore,  I presume that this engine cannot be earlier than 1977 when the Rover SD1 and so the +8 were given that Compression Ratio in the 3.5L version, and unlikely to be later than 1990 when the +8 was given a 3.9L.  I also read that the number may be divided into the first 3 digits showing "Engine specification", the next six the actual engine number, and the last for "Additional details"  But I cannot find those in more detail, which leaves me with no more information about the engine, even though, according to Des Hammill says ,"The identification of all Rover V8 blocks is easy!" in his book "How to tune the Rover V8".

Mr.Hammill's book provides lots of  advice on tuning, but much depends on exactly which type you have.  Can anyone please advise me where to find a detailed list of Rover V8 engine numbers, or can tell me what I have?

Thank you!

John

 https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-786---1977-triumph-tr7/?lot=50994&so=0&st=&sto=0&au=112&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=96&pn=8&g=1

located with all the other recently advertised parts, near Vienna, but courier is 

not  aproblem, I have an idea of prices for the parts, and a deal is possible for 

a job lot

John.

I list a question from Tr8 owner and wonder if anyone can help?

John.

Question:

What is wiring link between oil pressure switch, the lamp on dashboard and the fuel pump.

The pressure switch, 3 prong version connections:

P-S = Normally Closed and Opens when pressurised.

S-I  = NO and when pressurised unchanged.

I-P = NO and when pressurised closes.

With Ignition On, dash lamp is on. White wire read 12 Volt and White & Brown reads 5 Volt.

What is connection required for the Fuel Pump to kick in ?

Thanks

John