rcreweread

What about all the parts you are hoping to buy?!!! Cheers Rich

EP Services can rebuild some repro pumps to their specifications so worth giving them a call and maybe a photo cheers Rich

Archi - your gaps are correct as far as I can recall - this job was always difficult and you need both a really good ( and not worn) open ender for the diff end where this isn't enough room for a ring spanner to "get on" the nut and ideally a long but thin walled ring spanner for the other end as they are tight and you dont want spanners slipping off and rounding heads and nuts - with the correct spanners it's not difficult even with the clearances as they are Cheers Rich

Dave - without the side cutout for the existing air filter, the shape would be the same as a 4A, albeit, it would be shorter front to back - I'll PM you the suppliers contact details Cheers Rich

Marco - thanks for the info - I've found some links here in the UK here: https://www.google.com/search?q=Linksausdreher+Nüsse+extractor+nut+set&rlz=1C1VDKB_enGB1145GB1148&oq=Linksausdreh Looks a nice piece of kit Cheers Rich

Steve - it's not the one in your link - I'm referring to the one in the 5th post from the start of the thread from Z320 - it's a completely different type of socket - unfortunately, I don't know how to copy that to here. Cheers Rich

I like the look of that - do you have any more details /links please? Cheers Rich

In case some of you don't often look at the formal Classifieds on the main Club site, here is a link to my ad selling a TR4A rear diff cover: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/83 Please feel free to get in touch if this is of interest. Cheers Rich C-R

Steve - just be careful when removing the old one as they do seize and can break off which means careful drilling out - the Four Seasons valve is definitely the one to go for - more expensive but much more long lasting and smoother in operation which helps the wire cable to operate it. Then you will have to fabricate a method of fixing the end of the wire operating cable to the vertical round post of the valve - you can use a modified small cable connector or similar Cheers Rich

Chris - I would happily leave as is - without a cowl, the engine bay looks unfinished in my view. FWIW, the TR6s all had a fully enveloping cowl as standard Cheers Rich

Chris My understanding is that the early cars had a smallish vertical wind deflector either side of the radiator, but nothing over the top, probably as Stuart surmises, to aid cooling of the fuel pump which in those early days was fitted to the bulkhead before moving to the boot later ( not sure about 250s as they wouldn't have had a PI pump). To my mind, the end result never looked finished and all the mounting holes in the front panel were still there for fitting the TR4/4a cardboard type cowling which fell to bits fairly quickly once it got repeatedly wet. At the time, I was supplying radiator cowls for the other models manufactured by an aftermarket supplier - we had a surprising number of TR5s in our group and one TR5 member was keen to fit one to his car so we approached the manufacturer and he agreed to send us a 4A one to alter/modify as a prototype. This wasn't difficult as the basic shape remained the same , the basic alterations being the removal of most of the O/S side panel , in order to clear the air filter housing , and the overall shortening of the front to back length as the 6 cylinder engine and rad sit further forward thane the earlier 4 pot cars. Having returned the prototype, a production model was made and forwarded for us to fit to the members car - this fitted nicely and we were given that unit in return for the work. We were asked to provide photos of the installation which we were happy to provide and these photos are what you see in the listing below. these are now manufactured in both powder coated black ally or polished stainless steel and can be had with or without a laser cut "TR5" logo in the top. Ebay link here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257303554678?_skw=TR5+Radiator+Cowl&itmmeta=01KPY33NPMZ212R115ZPVVG9CZ&hash=item3be87caa76:g:iWIAAeSwgydpY8RI&itmprp=enc%3AA I can provide direct contact details for the manufacturer if anyone wants them - just PM me accordingly Cheers Rich C-R

Guys - have a look at a very similar post in the "Technical" forum, just above this forum - Pete (BFG) has already done quite a lot of testing with interesting results cheers Rich

Hi everyone - I'm resorting to putting this 2 piece rear diff casing on here as I have had absolutely zero interest from my Classifieds ad and it has to be an absolute bargain at £85 + postage at cost - this is quite a rare item and I believe was only fitted to early TR5s and 250s. In very nice condition having been blasted and then powder coated, the main mating surface to the diff casing has been trued to be absolutely flat. Furthermore, the two piece mating surfaces have been treated with Waxoyl before bolting together to minimise any chance of corrosion between the two parts. Link to Classifieds is here: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/83 If this could be of interest, please PM me your contact details etc Cheers Rich C-R

Graham - welcome back to the fold! What about this one on the Clubs Classifieds site: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classifieds/item/139 No connection with the vendor - long way to go mind you, or this on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306877935302 or this albeit a TR4 not 4A; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336499239504 If you fancy a project 4A , bearing in mind you are clearly a hands on type of guy, I have two project 4As which I'm tempted to sell - both RHD UK cars with all paperwork. Are you still in Essex? If so, I'm in Colchester - be good to talk - PM your contact details Cheers Rich Crewe-Read

Send three and four pence, we are going to a dance! Cheers Rich