BlueTR3A-5EKT

Here is a link to the original post in USA Perhaps the original poster will give the details https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/tr4a-cylinder-head-identification-help.1297721/

That was where and when I saw the car race. What comes to mind The scream of the Ferrari’s. The. Deep rumble of the Chapparal And the fart in a bucket of the MGB of course

Came across this on an overseas site. The suggestion is it came fitted to a TR4 engine. Looks like low port to me but what are the 4 hex plugs between the valves inside the rocker cover all about? Big inlet tracts. Thermo housing casting looks odd too. Anyone got any insight?

Some thoughts. Is the smell there all the time? Roof up or down? Do you have a ventilator on the scuttle between the screen and bonnet, and are you opening it to bring in fresh air ? Are there 4 slot vents in the rear edge of the bonnet? If so….Tape up the two middle ones to see if that helps. You mentioned bulkhead sealing. Yes there are many routes for smells and fumes to pass from the engine compartment into the cockpit. Sealing them with tape from inside is perhaps the neatest method. Also consider taping along the gearbox tunnel where it meets the floors, bulkhead and rear tunnel. What state is the gear-lever gaiter in? Good tight fit or split? Or could the smell be from the fuel tank? This could be loose, leaking or perished hoses/pipework. Is the smell of fumes perhaps exhaust? Where does your exhaust pipe finish? I extend mine beyond the rear of the car as far back as the extent of the overiders.

As well as letting excess fuel out that cut away washer allows air into the float chamber. Without an air vent the carb float chamber does not function correctly. Try blocking the vent pipe and see how far your car will go.

Here’s a classic I saw race at Brands. Does it count?

On the ground in cities it is said the refrigeration units in lorries that run on ‘red’ diesel (coz it’s cheap) are a huge contributor to particulate emissions. BBC balance now. The diesel particulates block the suns rays from accelerating global warming, whereas the CO2 from petroleum engine emissions accelerates it. Do we want polar bears with nowhere to live or polar bears with nice cold homes suffering from an occasional cough?

Not a consensus there then plus a mix of vehicle engines. So, one, two or three white knuckles? Not “ up till it goes soft and then and back one flat.” I torque to above 90 ft lbs on a 4 cyl wet liner TR using either original long bolt or after market short bolt for the narrow belt kit. Agree. If it runs loose the pulley gets wrecked, along with the key.

I am watching this thread with interest. My NEW Stanpart Stag gearbox has done that when cold ever since i bought and fitted it, I converted it to TR (replacement input shaft and release bearing assy plus new TR6 A type o/d) and fitted it in my TR3 some 50k miles ago. Yes it was new as I bought it from StanPart under its new part number along with a few other major units. Those were the days when the factory dumped stock of obsolete parts. My brother ran a converted Dol Sprint J type o/d gearbox in his TR2 for many years. That sits as a useable spare “just in case”. I think I might get round to checking the top cover spring rates and doing seals as that top cover is marking its territory with more gusto than before and definitely needs resealing, as best I can. Coin flip. Remove existing and rebuild or (blue print) rebuild my spare NOS top cover assy. Probably rebuild the existing and sell on the spare. Roger H. I’ll get in contact when I have it all in bits if that is ok with you.

real Over the counter sales experience from the 1980’s. “No Sir we only sell the longer cable Yes the one you have is shorter and probably original to your car but we have found the shorter ones tend not to last unless routed absolutely correctly plus the longer are less difficult to fit “ That statement goes for LHD too. We had a special ‘Long’ cable made for a specific German trade customer that was longer than the standard specified item. That item had. a JH suffix. (Johnny Heuten) So yes. longer is better as Revington has also discovered and states.

Interesting An EV builder invests in the manufacturer and supplier of British classic car body shells It could be fun if they decide that resurrecting the TR6 shell is their desire for a new EV. Or even the Adder RV8

Even if the pin goes in further it is still in single shear. The end of the pin should be supported where it exits the shaft in a hole the same size as its diameter. Hence the benefit of cross drilling and adding another pin/ bolt to mechanically support for the taper pin’s inadequacies

Yes if the pads are for the later calipers using 3/16” pins.

Drill a hole up through the top of the fork, while it’s in bits, so you can punch the bit of broken pin out in the future.

Repro 16P calipers are even cheaper from MGOC. Also fits Ford and MGC https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/34284/m16-brake-caliper-lh-cast-steel