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Showing results for tags 'bodywork'.
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Hi All. When I used to run my TR in the 70's I had one of the original square grill badges (see photo) Since then the car was sold, & then recently re-purchased, but it has lost the badge in question. Does anybody have one of these they don't want, & would like to sell? Happy new year to U all Bob.
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The front panel on my TR3A was taken off a couple of months ago. At the time I used masking tape along the top of the side wings to protect them from any marks on the paintwork caused by the trim fixing tabs. I have now fitted the front panel and the masking tape has left some sticky residue in a few places. I am planing to clean up the wings and I have white spirit. My question is will this damage the paint or clean it well and leave me with clear shiny wings. Please send me any advice on the best approach, or an alternative cleaner. Thanks Richard
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Hi The metalwork on my '4 is done, and I have been trying to get a good finish on the bodywork. The old paint is largely ok, except where there were a few bubbles and dings. Sanding through these faults revealed filler from old damage, but really good pro repairs. However, my efforts on the front nearside wing hasn't gone so well. I have been following the books and videos, carefully applying layers of filler then stopper using grades of wet & dry, then a blow over with a can of high build primer. It isn't dreadful, but it is uneven with blemishes. Any tips to get to a better finish? The picture flatters the work. Thanks, Adrian
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Has anyone used or know of this company? Roy
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The weather is improving, and I retired a few weeks ago so it's time to venture into the workshop and continue work on the 2. I have fitted repair sections to both of my front wings. A ready made 12" section to the nearside, and a 4" home made section to the offside. The original edge wire is extended well into the new sections and mig welded at the ends of the seam. The seam itself is joggled and spot welded every 1". Question is..... what's the best way to finish the seam? 1. I could fully seam weld across either the inside or outside of the seam, but I don't want to risk distorting the wing. 2. I could just lead the outside and seam seal the inside. 3. I could use filler, but this would probably crack in time. How have you chaps done yours? Les
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Hello All, I have a CR car undergoing restoration and it should have a black plastic front spoiler. This isn't with the car and have two questions- 1). Recomendation of any suppliers to get a replacement? 2). How are these attached? Do they use the same mounting points as the front bumper or are they secured with separate holes on the front wings/valance? I can't see any existing holes but maybe the car had replacement panels prior to my involvement. Thanks.
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Hello I have been removing underseal and paint to reveal good metal. I then applied 2 coats of Hydrate-80 (a good quality rust converter) followed by 2 coats of Stone Chip. It's turned out well. But then I saw an Edd China video where he applied rust converter, etch-primer then a couple of top coats. So should I put primer on after my rust converter? Thanks, Adrian
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Starting to repair a body shell Stuart mentioned that B&Q do thin steel angle which can be a short cut to repairing inner wings Went to B&Q and found the thin angle steel 25mmx25mmx1.15 mm at 1 meter lengths.. but it was perforated with oblong holes which doesn't fit the bill Repairing the body shell with that would suggest that I had recycled a shelving unit! Any ideas where 1mm angle steel is available now? Internet search suggests that angle steel starts at 3mm thick May be the right words to trigger the search As usual I appreciate the forum mass knowledge Michael H
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1974 US car (CF) I'm replacing the front valance (very dented ) with a second hand US spec valance which I will alter for UK spec indicator/side lights along with UK spec front bumper - the inner wings look to be in relatively good original condition - alignment isn't too bad on first fitment (still got the very battered nearside (for the UK) to do - the nearside wing had a nasty dent in the headlamp bowl) - Off side wing (UK) is possible a pattern wing ? Questions - the valance where it joins the bottom of the inner and outer wing, has what looks like a reinforcing section on it (see pic) which means, that as my original Inner wing still has the triangle shaped piece at the bottom front, that there will be 4 pieces of metal sandwiched at this point - should I remove the reinforcing section from the valance ? see pic also the headlamp ring should also sit on top of the curve of the valance ? - see pic with screwdriver pointer hope this makes sense and hopefully Stuart will be along to advise ! (will also trial fit the bonnet before welding ) many thanks Matt
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Looking to purchase lead sticks and solder paste ( nealetin). I did attend Stuart's display at IWE last year but memory doesn't serve me well, should I buy the sticks with the greater tin content, and how much should I need ?. Thinking of ordering 5 sticks and a 250gram tub of paste. Mark
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Hello. I have 3 or 4 small scabby rust holes in my rear right hand inner wing adjacent to the lamps. Rather than try and make some curved patch panels I thought I’d ask here first to see if any one has one of the inner wings lurking around. I’ve attached a photo of roughly the area that is needed. Many Thanks.
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Hello! I am a recent joiner so please be kind! I am planning to buy a TR3 and have seen a number now. Most of them do not appear to have been treated to protect them from stone chips underneath or in the wheel arches. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good company that offers this service at a reasonable cost. I am based in the South East but would have the car trailored to have this done before risking driving it on salty roads so location is not so much of an issue. Thanks, in advance, for your help.
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After too many years of my 6 being off the road, I'm starting on the 'reassembly is the reverse of disassembly' part of the manual. At the moment I'm making sure the outer panels fit well before shipping to my local painter. I don't want to be fiddling too much after the panels are painted for fear of damage. Something that has me scratching my head a bit, is the fitment of the rear wing to the B post. It doesn't look right but I don't know how it should look. For background, the car was restored by a previous owner in the early 80's. The main tub is original and in good condition but I suspect the front and rear wings are Heritage panels (or at least not Stanpart). The wing fits very well from the outside, everything lines up, including the inner flange to the back of the B post. Great. However, from the striker plate side of the B Post there is a big gap on the inside of the wing. There is a flange on the B Post that comes some way into the void but it doesn't touch the wing. It looks like it might be designed for a rubber filler strip but I can't find one in the parts diagrams. The previous owner had packed this area with frame sealant and maybe this is the way it should be done? It just doesn't look right but what have others done? Any thoughts (or pictures) gratefully received.
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Hi All you surrey top fitters Got a friend who can't fit his "original" surrey top back light to the TR4 he is building up because it has lumps on the underside Any information or ideas or opinions as to significance of these lumps and what to do to fit the back light to his car? Thanks in advance Michael H
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Having to reinstall the gearbox soon, I thought i would check the fittings etc, it was noted that the rubber has come a drift from the rear gearbox Support, it seems that they get oil on them and they part company from the steel bracket, is there an upgraded version,,has anybody got an answer to this Regards pink
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Hi Troops - Betty hopes to be out of hospital for Christmas so if you spot a blue 4A whizzing about over the holiday it might be me, can’t wait! Got passenger side footwell, inner sill and B post plus final paintwork to go… My engineer is keen for me to have rear wheel arch liners fitted and I have been reading up on previous forum posts. He has already fitted new front wheel arch lining plates. I found a 2013 post that mentions Honeybourne Mouldings, as the writer says, a lot cheaper than Revington that most people recommend. Would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations before I order? As Always, Many Thanks for your support Christine
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Does anybody have some feedback about Ashford Chroming. They have a professional web site that looks great, but so do many companies. http://www.ashfordchroming.com/ Thanks in Advance Dave
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Hello, if anyone fancies having a go and doesn't want to pay the full price I am trying to recoup the many thousands of pounds on the latest project, it includes .5kg stick of lead, over 100 grammes of solder paste and a couple of application brushes, offering it on here before fleabay, I have decanted the solder paste into a small jar so it takes up less space, £12, including postage, less than half price!! Plenty of clips on YouTube and also Stuart's excellent tutorial, only thing I would add is if you are dealing with a hole in the wing clamp a piece of wood to the back! Cheers, Andrew
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Hello Troops - I’ve been to visit Betty ‘in hospital’ today. What a ‘rotten’ life she had before we got her. Every week reveals some more ‘gbh’. Poor ‘old girl’. On the bright side her repaired wheel arches look great I will be so glad to get her back, she’s been gone too long. Anyway, more bodged repair work has been discovered to the front valance/inner wing. My engineer is going to repair both but we can’t find a photo that shows what these parts look like where they join and they don’t line up either. Hope this photo shows the area we need a photo of so he can effectively repair both panels. Many Thanks as always Christine
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I baught new door stays as I noticed one of the tangs had broken, what a night mare, no problem fitting them , however they were like butter, just bent when the tang hit the lift/lock bar, the tang filled really easily, so the conclusion is that they have had no heat treatment, The originalls had stanpart stamped on them, I put the broken one on the passenger door and the passenger door on the drivers side I recon I could re-rivet them if any one has old ones that has broken I would like to buy them please Pink
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Hello, struggling to locate the backlight seal that goes between the backlight and body, tried the usual suspects and either out of stock or not even listed, thanks in anticipation, Andrew
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So..... Back in October last year in the process of transporting the block from my TR3a out of the garage and into the back of my estate car, prior to taking it (the block) to the engineering shop to be worked on, I managed to scrape the rear wing of my TR3a. No problem I thought, I can polish that out. Wrong! By the time I had polished it out there was a pale patch in the BRG paintwork. Not a problem, I thought, when the weather warms up I will blow it over with a touch up can of a suitable colour paint. So I did that last Friday but like an idiot, I only masked the immediate surrounding area with a result that I have a fine layer of dust from the 2K aerosol I was using all over the car. I have tried polishing it out with polishing compound and it is a very long process. Before I buy some 2500 grit paper and use that to flat the paintwork followed by polishing compound, does anyone know a better method. Rgds Ian
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Hi Troops - I forgot to mention these canny fixings, they haven’t come up on a search on here, apparently they were designed to use when building light aircraft in America, not a common hobby in UK!
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Hi Troops - visited the old girl on Sunday to view another rusty hole which will delay her home coming yet again. Good news is the footwell repair is coming along and the formers to mould the inner wheel repair sections have been made. Thought I would share some photos. Once my work is complete, I could loan these formers? Christine
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Hi Folks, after last autumns battle with the inner wing where the bonnet hinge fits I now need to paint the area in a top coat. The original finish is a 2K and I would like to replace with the same. I have access to a paint supplier that can do aerosol with pretend 2K. Sadly it is not better than a normal acrylic. I thought I found a place in New Malden that could do 2K aerosols but alas no. However they did sell me a very small spray gun - great salesman. Today I had a flash of brilliance (actually not that bright - apprx 30W) - is it possible to brush paint 2K. Thankfully it is at the front end of the wheel arch/inner wing so not too visible. What are your thoughts. Roger
