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Showing results for tags 'lubricants'.
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Many, many moons ago, I obtained a Castrol lubrication chart for my TR2 (it covers TR3 as well), and when I acquired 4VC in 1969, I obtained the TR4/4A version. Approaching the 50th anniversary of the TR4's launch, I asked Castrol whether we might reproduce the TR4/4A chart, and permission was granted at no cost, so we produced a laminated version from my master copy for the TR4@50 event at the International at Harrogate in 2011. A few months ago, Jo Whitty asked me about the TR2/3 version, so I lent her my master copy and the office now has both the TR2/3 and the TR4/4A charts available in laminated form, so ideal for the garage wall! At the NEC Show, Jo asked me whether I had the TR6 chart. I don't, but I am wondering whether any member has the chart in a decent state (not torn or covered in grubby finger marks!) and would be prepared to loan it for a short while in order that copies may be produced. If so, please let me know by PM or by email to my home (see page 82 of TR Action). Lest anyone be concerned about copyright, Castrol granted permission for reproduction by the TR Register of the lubrication charts on all TR models for the benefit of our members, and Jo has a copy of that letter. Ian Cornish
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Just completed a great 3 day driving weekend down the east coast to meet some friends from Sydney who drove up in their Bristol 405 to meet us half way. TR6 went brilliantly (still running a little rich) and did all that was asked over 1100km of fast highway and country road driving. On the way back this afternoon following pushing it on a back road I noticed a whirring noise - traced it to the Tacho cable. Interestingly I replaced this in December after it broke when I last drove to Sydney in a day(at bout the 800km mark). What's the best lubrication for the cable Graze
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Gents Good evening The cold months are with us and the time for some routine maintenance (otherwise known as quality time) has arrived My question is this; Given that my car has modern bottom end shells, modern, little end bearings, 2002 camshaft, pistons and rings & replacement oil pump amongst other things (in fact, rebuilds and replacement parts mean that the head and block are probably the only original or pre 1998 components left of the 1975 engine that rolled out of the factory), which engine oil should I use? Do I stick with the specialist Castrol / Penrite / Miller classic oils? Given that the engine parts are all of modern manufacture, can I utilise a modern multigrade mineral or synthetic oil? Thanks in advance John
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Hi I have a TR2 with an uprated all synchro gearbox with uprated overdrive currently running 20w/50 oil. That was changed last spring since when I've only done about 600 miles The box has been trouble free until this year when it has become increasingly difficult to change gear when the gearbox is hot. There are no problems when the engine and box are cold but once up to temperature it’s becoming a nuisance I’ve changed the clutch fluid (which had been overlooked) which has improved the gear change but the problem has persisted. Because it improved, it might point to clutch issues but the engagement point on the pedal travel doesn’t seem to change with temperature and there are no signs of fluid loss (hard to tell round the slave cylinder because of the ever present oil drips but the fluid level doesn’t drop). The clutch is a TR6 cover and plate on a TR4A aluminium flywheel Next thoughts are to change the oil for say Millers EP 80w90 Any ideas?
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I have started the relacement of the headlight panel and, whilst I was at it, I thought that I'd check out the windscreen motor. I'd found that the wipers are either very slow or just slow, depending on the position of the wiper stalk; also the 'parking' position is such that it is in my line of sight. Before starting I have checked out the WM and found that two forms of lubricant are needed, namely RLG Ragostine Listate Grease and ST41O Shell Turbo 41 Oil. I can't seem to find these either online or locally, can any more experienced owners suggest alternatives?
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All there have been a couple of threads regarding engine oil filters recently and some cross references have been supplied. Where cross referenced filters have been used and shown to work, then there is no issue, however; I was in the process of putting together a usable cross reference, based on filters that can be relied on. I have added the recently supplied information and took about 15 minutes on the web to extend the spreadsheet based on information supplied by just filter suppliers. My message is; Please do not take any information regarding compatibility at face value In addition, do not take information on manufacturers web sites at face value either, for example; I am using a K&N HP2009, am happy with it and will continue to use them, unless something provably better comes along These statements are from the K&N web site; Our oil filters also use a resin impregnated cellulose filter media. This allows for higher flow rates while providing outstanding filtration They are able to handle heavy duty applications and block 99% of foreign material. for "resin impregnated cellulose" read Paper. This does not offer outstanding filtration, it is mediocre at best, but it is all that is currently offered by the industry Note the use of the word 'block' in place of 'remove' To remove 99% of the particulates generated, paper media pack would need to be extremely thick, which would create unacceptable differential pressure. Using 'block' tells us nothing If K&N are not offering good info, you can be sure that the cheaper boys are even less forthcoming. Note If someone can tell me how to upload an xlsx spreadsheet, I will add the cross reference to show the variation in dimensions between 'compatible' products
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Afternoon All. What is the difference between Semi and Mineral oils ? Is it just down to additives ? And why do we run are engines on Mineral ? Just bored really, Mark
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Hi All Although I’m still way off finishing and starting up I’m starting to think about where things will end up, like pipe routing etc. One of the thinks that might affect that is do I stay with the original filter housing or convert to the more modern spin on type? Now my understanding of the main benefit of the change is that oil drains out of the horizontal old style filter but doesn’t out of the modern vertically mounted spin on cartridge type. Meaning after and engine start the oil pump has to fill the filter before oil reaches the bearings and as the vertically mounted spin on is always full the delay is very much shorter. So a few questions, is that thought process correct? do they perform that function well? and how much additional wear to the bearings suffer with the old style? Cheers Keith
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I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
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I paid a hefty invoice this evening to get my car back after a clutch change and an engine swap. The engine came out of a fire damaged car so I knew there might be issues although it looked to be in good nick. The garage is a a Triumph specialist but they don't do many TR's, part of the job was refitting newly reconditioned PI equipment. On driving away, the car was popping & farting a lot, rather like a souped up Saxo, it was noisier than before as it now has a phoenix manifold & single silencer exhaust, but I don't think the popping is normal. I drove home around 20 miles, as I neared home, it felt like the car was running on three cylinders. When I parked up and opened the bonnet, the engine was covered in oil, a lot of oil, on investigation, the garage had fitted the rocker cover without a gasket, this engine has an external oil feed so the leakage was very bad (I know about the external feed issues, the head oilway is blocked so no choice). I have left the garage a voicemail, let's see what tomorrow brings. Ian
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I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
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Just changed the oil, just some Castrol Classic but as always from fresh oil I have nearly 6 bar at tick over, 6bar at 1200rpm and 7bar at 2500rpm. Truth is I have 5b even with hot running at tick over on old oil. I have never worried about too much oil pressure as its been 25 years of hard driving since I fitted the oil radiator which even saved me once when I drove though town in traffic to discover I had no water in the radiator... 20,000miles ago when I dropped the sump the bearings were brill. But I do wonder about the dipstick and if the notches are right as the dipstick was ground at some stage. So wondering, Is 5L of oil right in a car with a long spin on and an oil rad? Tony
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So due to some difficulties on the road a long while back I bought some modern Castrol Gtx and put it in the 5... Forgot about it for a couple of years and and got a few wry looks regards the lack of Zinc and stuff. Well just putting some Castrol Classic in now but as I started I thought I would do some research. So Take a look here a very nicely done table of research and it seems to be saying that Zinc and stuff is no big deal after all. Modern Castrol GTx 20/50 comes out really well......... http://www.chevelles...-more-oils.html Maybe we should stop worrying about zinc and start looking at the research. The guy actually states that the Zinc thing is a popular myth..... Tony -
So I have a temporary garage at the moment its very tight spaced so I bought one of those easy tanks that are only 8cm high for collecting oil from sump so I could work from the front of the car with only the need to raise my Tr5 a couple of inches. Like a wally I didnt think to remove the second plug to on it to speed air out and so the rush of oil overdid the flow into the collector. Now I have about a litre of nice black oil on the concrete floor of the garage.... I have googled ways to clean ranging from WD40 to Coca Cola. Anyone got some magic solution for removing the foot square stain??? Well at least as always my magnetic drain plug was perfectly clean of any swarf. Cant same for garage floor now though ....
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So due to some difficulties on the road a long while back I bought some modern Castrol Gtx and put it in the 5... Forgot about it for a couple of years and and got a few wry looks regards the lack of Zinc and stuff. Well just putting some Castrol Classic in now but as I started I thought I would do some research. So Take a look here a very nicely done table of research and it seems to be saying that Zinc and stuff is no big deal after all. Modern Castrol GTx 20/50 comes out really well......... http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/443674-zinc-myth-test-data-dozen-more-oils.html Maybe we should stop worrying about zinc and start looking at the research. The guy actually states that the Zinc thing is a popular myth..... Tony
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A couple of items I've purchased in the past couple of weeks, which seem to me like particularly good value . . . . On the 'bay, GL4 gear oil, 5lts for a little over £18 delivered, Millers are reliable folks in my experience https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-EP-80W90-GL4-Mineral-Gear-Gearbox-Rear-Axle-Oil-5-L-5320GG/272070758210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and from Fluids in Motorsport, a box of 4 x 4lts Silkolube delivered for £64 . . . . an engine oil I've used for many years and found more than satisfactory https://shop.fluidsinmotorsport.co.uk/department/mineral_engine_oils/ usual disclaimers, I'm just a customer ! Cheers Alec
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So after years and years of the unleaded situation I was wondering if there are definitive articles on all the unleaded saga? Both my CP Tr6 and Tr5 have been running on unleaded with a dash of castrol valvemaster without any conversions for about 20 years now right? Recently I swapped out a metering unit for a torn diaphragm which has more to do I suspect has more to do with me leaving the system dry for 6 months, I also just replaced a broken rocker on N°2 valve which is an inlet valve not exhaust anyway. So where is all the worry? 20 years hard driving expecting to face the unleaded devil.. Have I missed something or was the unleaded story just a saga after all? What did people generally find after all the worry 20 years ago? Tony
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Extralube ZX81 oil additive any good or snake oil? Saw it in Halfords quite pricey. Reading the paperwork it can also be added to fuel tank (30ml per 30 litres??) and also a small amount in the coolant to help lube the water pump!
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Hi just a quick heads up to those using Millers Oils Classic High Performance 20w50 NT oil Just stocking up for this season and found that all the links I had were now pointing to something called Millers Pistoneeze Classic Sport 20w50, and that virtually nobody had the Classic High Performance 20w50 NT in stock. Bit confused I called Millers technical and was told that Classic Sport HP20w50 was the replacement and identical product. Magic, so off to order some. Even further confusion as prices from different suppliers were all over the shop, and some descriptions referred to it as a semi-synthetic whilst the Classic High Performance 20w50 NT was a fully synthetic. So called tech support at OPIE oils who I have normally purchased from to ask what was going on. Yes major confusion at the moment! Millers now supply 2 Classic Sport Oils 1) Millers Oils Pistoneeze Classic Sport HP 20W-50 2) Millers Oils Pistoneeze Classic Sport 20W-50 And to further confuse things have put both in almost identical Tins (The HP 20w50 NT used to come in Plastic) So even if you order the correct item, apparently picking the wrong item for dispatch is easy! Anyway a bit of digging shows that some suppliers are selling the Classic Sport 20w50 and describing it as a replacement for the Classic High Performance 20w50 NT "It isn't"! you need Classic Sport HP 20w50! So be careful when buying! Alan Spot the difference!
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I have fitted a Mocal oil cooler to my 67 4a ,it has the sandwich fitting between filter head and filter. After fitting oil pressure has gone from 70/75 cold to 85/90 cold and 60 hot to 65 hot. I am worried that because the oil gauge is before the sandwich is there a restriction caused giving a higher reading and actually less oil getting to the motor. Looking thru filler hole the rocker gear is getting oil but doesn't seem to be as much as usual. I fitted a temporary gauge to the plug at the back of the head and the gauge shows nil pressure but there is some oil there as a slight leak came from the connection. The hand drawn fitting instructions that came with the kit are very vague. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi All. I trust everybody is now done with the Christmas jollities, and we can resume normal service. I need to fit an oil catch tank after EFI adventure, but I'm struggling to find one that would make a neat installation. Has anyone had any success ? And if so a pic would be great. Cheers for now Mark.
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Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
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I have just under half a canister of the above left - which has aTriumph on the front. With the team having deserted to Millers, the current Classic Light 20W-60 has generic AC lookalike. Can I mix the two ?
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£10.20 to deliver a single 5l plastic container of oil !
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Recently had oil cooler fitted, with thermostat. On a recent Spanish trip I was smoking from the exhaust until the oil level dropped to between bottom dip stick mark and mid point. It has been suggested that following the cooler fit I should not fill to the top mark of the dip stick. Can anyone confirm if this correct? It seems logical as there is now more space for oil (pipes from and to the oil cooler and the cooler itself, in addition to standard). Thanks in advance, Mike
