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Showing results for tags 'pi tr6'.
Found 7 results
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Good Afternoon, I’ve been having problem lately with the car getting richer on every trip. So I thought I would go through everything (a service), I’ve done the tappets, ordered new points, cap, rotor and condenser from the dizzy doc, replaced the fuel filter and I thought I would check the fuel pressure and it’s only about 70psi. So I adjusted the PRV many times and nothing changed, I then removed it to give it a clean but there was nothing noticeably wrong with it, bunged it back in and still I can’t get more than 70psi. Pump checks out ok. Cant think of anything else apart from something wrong with the fuel filter. Any help will be much appreciated. Cheers Kev.
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Further to my thread:- fuel pressure problems. I thought I’d start a new thread. I have a spare Lucas pump which is a bit screechy. I thought I would buy a pump rebuild kit from tr enterprises for £46 all in. Now my thinking is that I rebuild my spare one which is now on my bench apart and looks in not too bad a condition apart from being very dry. If the rebuild doesn’t go well I’ll send the one in the car to Neil Ferguson for a refurb and test. Has anyone any tips. i.e. on what grease I should use on the bearings and seal. The manual suggests Shell 6266 grease but I can’t find a modern equivalent. Any other suggestions are most welcome. Many Thanks Kev.
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Hi brains trust, Can anyone please tell me the size of the various fittings on the HP fuel line between the PRV and MU on a CP-series TR6? Specifically the male-male adapter (#69 in the Moss catalogue), and either end of the flexible hose (#71), as well as the diameter (ID/OD) of the pipe that runs along the chassis. Catalogue page is here. Hopefully there's a screenshot below... Thanks JC
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Spent this morning fitting some beautiful throttle bodies from FredMillturn (Martin) to resolve a crappy idle issue. During the setting up the car was obviously at idle for quite a bit. Time to hit the road and she was missing 3500-4500rpm so I pulled the plugs (NGK BP6ES) with 1000 miles on them - "sooty and sweep" . Remember them?. So new set of NGK BP6ES problem solved and she pulls clean to 5500rpm so happy. From reading 5 and 6 tend to soot normally so I was wondering if changing all of the plugs to a hotter heat range would be a good move to reduce sooting. Any disadvantages? Anyone running a full set of hotter plugs and what would folk recommend? Or is there a better alternative? Thanks Andy
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Evening all So I'm in need of a set that look original so I guess they need to be black that give reliable service. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks Andy
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Hi, I’m a newbie and I apologise in advance for my lacking engineering knowledge. I have owned my ‘73 CR model for one week. It is a steep learning curve but I’m really excited to understand how things work and to do as much maintenance as my limited knowledge, the manuals and the Internet forums allow. All in all it seems to run well, have been reasonably well looked after, and have had attention on and off over the years. After the journey back from TRGB, thanks Gary, and a few local trips it seemed to be stuttering a little. Following advice I took it out for a blast and that appears to have cleared that problem. I have yet to check the spark plugs. But it does smell like it’s running rich and I have just taken the air intake connection off between the air filter and the “triumph” airbox that takes the air to the inlet manifold and there seems to be petrol and a bit of grime inside it, also down the connector leading to the air filter. A. Is this normal? B. If not what can I do about it? C. Perhaps I haven’t got the hang of the forum search yet and the answers to these questions are elsewhere, if so, please point me in the right direction. Many thanks Matt
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Hi all As ever a few questions. Just got a new Kent PI cam shaft to replace the old one as the lobes were worn. On measuring the new and old bearing surfaces they are the same so no wear. However both cams seem to have play once inserted into the block. Is it normal for the block bearing surfaces to wear rather than the cam? There appears to be around 2.8 thou of play. Probably explains why the previous owner had added another spring to the pressure relief valve in an effort to boost the oil pressure. Would wear here lead to low oil pressure? The plan is to have the block line bored and shells fitted. 1) who supplies/make are the best bearings shells? 2) what''s the best clearances to aim for? Only because I've read that the OEM specs can some times lead to the cam seizing up. Thanks Andy
