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I need to replace top steering column bush part number 209423. I see that Rimmers do an uprated one (209423UR). Does anyone have any experience of the uprated ones? At 5x the price are they any better than the standard ones. I seem to remember original ones being challenging to fit. Keith

Dear TR Forums colleagues, I just wanted to post an alternative way to provide ground to the steering column. Today I had my MOT and yesterday evening, while testing the car, I noticed that the horn had stopped working. Much to my surprise, I discovered that the lower silent lock did not have the bypass cable, so the steering column had no ground. To add to the problem, when tested bypassing the silent ick, I realized that the steering rack had no ground... As the horn was working before, I can only asssune that ground was reaching the column trough the cabling collar around the steering wheel and it stopped working when I adjusted the steering wheel so that the steering wheel hub would not rub on the cabling collar... So, with no time to do a proper repair, what I did was to attach a round metal hose clamp around the steering column in the area closer to the firewall and the battery box, loose enough for It not to turn with the column, but tight enough to provide electric contact. I then attached a cable to the hose clamp and connected It to ground. It worked perfectly and I passed my MoT. It is a bit of a PITA to bypass the lower silent lick, so I am considering refining the system and making it permanent by using a copper ring. This would have the advantage of accesility. I attach a picture with the hose clamp and the connection to ground highlighted with a red circle. I hope someone may find this useful

My steering wheel nut came loose which I thought a bit odd. There is no tab lock washer in the parts diagram - do people loctite the nut or, if torqued properly is this an unusual event. Thank you. Snowy

During our fantastic Cumbria Group annual stay in Fort William my 73 TR decided to play a trick on us by refusing to allow the key to be inserted in the superbly located (not!) steering lock. After much faffing about with wd 40 etc and poking about with various tools the lock refused even with my second key. With the help of the great Peerless guy Ken Wilson the lock was moved off steering column to get mobile. The following day John Morrison managed to remove the lock totally. (I had not tightened the shear bolts to snap off thank goodness). I rigged a switch to work in place of the ignition switch and used used already fitted push button starter switch to get home . Has anybody replaced just the key lock barrel? Source? Where is the best place to buy a total replacement lock with ignition switch and which is best? Do ones that are used in other vehicles fit? ie. Land Rover as usual suppliers seem expensive! MARK

Hi As anyone fitted electric power steering to a tr6 !!

I’m replacing the old worn out steering rack bushes with p/u ones. Do I use silicon grease around the inside and outside of the bush. I’m not sure I should. Many Thanks.

Hi all, I’m hoping someone can advise regarding an issue that seems to be happening more frequently on my CR series TR6, which has a steering lock..! I’m starting to find that when I insert the ignition key it will not turn to the first position, and release the steering lock.. It seems to happen randomly, sometimes working, sometimes not! I’m sure it’s not key related as the same happens with the spare key.. It also makes no difference if it’s first thing, or later in the day (after freeing it).. can also happen even if the key is left in, returned to the 0 position and then try again.. but I’m now getting concerned that it could happen when I’m out and therefore unable to start he car for a homeward trip.. or worse.. could in theory happen whilst driving!? The usual trying to wiggle/slightly turn the steering wheel at the same time as the key, also seems to have no effect. .. any thoughts would be appreciated.. plus any suggested solutions.. I’d rather keep the original key and barrel if possible.. but have no objection if the ‘locking’ part could be stripped out? thanks and regards, Richard

Yesterday I did the unthinkable and pushed my TR4a on to the car trailer, using the steering wheel to pull forward and back, and cracked the wooden surround. the clutch slave cylinder had gone and I needed to get the car back home to do the job, how I wish I’d just crawled underneath. does anyone have a spare they are willing to sell me? i live in Suffolk Near Diss. thx Gordon

I am presently making a TR4A which I recently baught roadworthy. I have repaired the drive shafts and rear brakes and now I am starting on the front end. I have fit new trackrod ends, which were worn, but notice there is up and down movement of the inner steering shaft, the steering wheel moves up and down @ 1/4 inch. What is the likely cause? Apart from the bushes at the top and bottom of the column, that appear ok, I cannot see any thing else that would cause this.

OK, this is one of those 'hunt the noise' exercises. For a while, I have experienced a random clunk coming from the offside front of the 3A when stopping or pulling away. Not on every occasion my any means, but quite distinct when it happens and worse since my recent tour. I have R&P steering from an known source but no ARB. So, what can I check / remedy in case something has just loosened (rather than worn) before simply handing the car over to the engineers? Many thanks. Miles

Buy it now at 100$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR250-GT6-GT6-Original-Steering-Wheel-15/172104242382?_trksid=p2055119.c100022.m2048&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122153519%26meid%3D98f11c16135b49e1821a0f85d7876f80%26pid%3D100022%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D322004550194

My TR6 passed its MOT today, which I'm really pleased about. There was one or two observations. I have play in the upper steering column; it moves a little mostly in the vertical plane when you exert force on the steering wheel itself. (perhaps 2 or 3 mm). The Inspector pointed it out and suggested it was likely play in a bush. I have not interrogated further as yet. My question is what is it most likely to be, and is it a tricky job to do. A couple of years ago my classic car garage locally did adjust the column to its furthest position away from the driver; it had been in the outer position for over 20 years, but I'd lived with it. He had said he took the main gauges out for best access to the clamps involved. Its something I should attend to, just gathering some thoughts beforehand. Many thanks Trevor

I need to replace the LHS tie rod ends and possibly the tie rod itself. Is there any variation in quality or shall I just call Moss ? Memo to self. " Do not drive over heavy bits of wood on country lanes." It is quite annoying as I have only recently had four wheel alignment at CTM in Hampshire. Is it possible to buy rubbish tie rods? Thanks Richard & B.

I have the eternal TR problem of the horn going off intermittently on its own accord. I replaced my (1972) standard steering about 20 years ago with what I led to believe was an earlier type with a thin leather rim and separate deeper boss which necessitated the longer push connection. My column was also in the most upward position until last year which I had grown use to. However my local garage lowered it which was good. The horn issue to be honest was there before and after the step change. I believe its the boss shorting out on the horn ring in a random manner. I have recently tried to insulate as much of the exposed parts to avoid connection, which works for a while but eventually it breaks down I imagine due to the rotation of the wheel. I can see if the inner column is raised by 1-2 mm this would move the boss away from the horn ring and I hope solve the problem. Please could I receive advice how this can be done. Is it simply from the connection clamp under the bonnet, or is there something more intricate on the column under the dash? many thanks Trevor

Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing something, because of the flats where the bolts go at the joints, the column has to go back in the same orientation as before. It may well be that the cancellation clip has been in the wrong orientation for many years and cancelled one side sooner than the other! What is the correct orientation of the cancellation ring in relation to the switch? ( I think it should be pointing away at 9 oclock) How do I change it if required - drill another indentation in the steering column? MARK

Hi All Kind of linked to my previous Overdrive post (Electricy Help) but more help needed with my electrical bits. So for info it’s a UK 72 Pi and I’m installing ALL new Autosparks harnesses for the model and options. So the Autosparks mini harness code 865 goes from the relay and ends up with two spurs, one goes to the OD and connects via another little harness BC58, and hopefully I’ve got that bit ok now. But there is still that question where does the second spur off the 865 Relay to OD harness go. It has to go to the OD switch right? But harness has a yellow green wire and a plain yellow, but the switch has the same yellow green but a black. Hmm. I suppose the black earth from switch can connect to any earth but not sure about the single yellow from the OD harness (865)? Then there is a spur off the main harness, kind of after the heater and behind the Tacho. It contains 4 wires, 3 brown of varying thicknesses and a white with a red trace. So not sure what it is or where it goes. I was thinking through the bulkhead to supply the starter but not sure. Slightly daft question, apart from the Horn wiring do all three column switches go under the steering column harness cover (part 611369) I’m assuming they do but it seems a bit tight through the alloy column clamps (611529 and 611530). Hopefully pics below will help. Cheers Keith

Hi, The TR4 has past the MOT with just one advisory which was a nearside track rod end with some slight play. Can anyone recommend a quality replacement fitted with a grease nipple. Thanks Andy

I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve

Hello. 1st post. Trailered home a 74, Sapphire blue yesterday. After this morning in the DMV the 1st real run out was an absolute joy. Located Putnam County, NY. 121k miles, but the previous owner has spared no expense on garage parts and maintenance. While the exterior is certainly shabby it suits me just fine and seems to run incredibly smoothly. Everything that should work, works. I'm spanner happy and have given it a fairly close look over. Two things jump out. The last steering splined joint has play in/out. This lets the steering wheel move about 1/8". Ive never seen a splined joint that doesn't clamp tight. Should I be looking into that further? The center rear sump bolt is stripped. Sump leaks a small amount and found it checking how tight they were. Not convinced its the source of the leak, but it needs sorting anyway. Are there any recommendations of how to tackle? Drill and retap a bigger hole I'm guessing. Any advice on how oversize to go? I have a catalogue from Moss. Getting together a list of bits. Pretty much anything that is rubber and not essential to the mechanics of the engine is shot to bits. Under hood seals, door/window seals etc. Not instantly seeing everything I need from Moss, is there a better supplier? Very excited to own this car. Right now its got 101 jobs to do, if I choose to do them.

Hi You may remember that the steering bushes that go on the column inside the housing at the dash got chewed up on my TR4A. I have replaced them successfully with the uprated ones sold by Rimmers. Now the steering feels notchy. A little stiff. Should I expect this and should they 'bed-in' over time? In other words, should I stick with it or do I need to do something about it? The TR got an MOT no problem and it was not seen as an 'issue'. Many thanks. Paul.

Propose to fit these to my refurbished steel wheels. I understand that they offer a close approximation to the original size fitted Thoughts?

Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon

Hi all learned brethren. Please take a look at the pictures. I think you click them to make them bigger! Basically, my steering column started wobbling about from the inside. The outer casing was rock solid as was the shaft lock and where it joins in to the rubber joining section. So it has to be the bushes inside. I got them out and you'll see that they seem to be chewed up??? I have bought 2 new very expensive nylon ones (£40 odd quid). 2 Questions. 1: What causes the chewing up and is it something more sinister? Did I have a cheap bush in there? 2: Will the new nylon ones do the job? They are sold as 'uprated'? Thoughts and thanks. Paul.

I am in the process of installing one of the much recommended on here Revington steering arm kits to my TRT3a. At the end of the instructions it says to set the toe in to 20 minutes. Is that going to be 20 minutes each side or 20 minutes total? I know I could phone Revington, but I just thought someone on here might know. Rgds Ian

Can anyone tell me the correct assembly sequence for the steering gear on the TR7/8 please? I'm putting my Grinnall back together and can't get the in-engine bay upper linkage to pull up to the wavy washer. Many thanks Keith