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Showing results for tags 'tr2'.
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Morning all, I suspect a quick question, is it possible to remove the overdrive without taking the the gearbox out? Appreciate gearbox will need to be supported, but is there enough room given the length of gearbox mainshaft. Thanks
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The weather is improving, and I retired a few weeks ago so it's time to venture into the workshop and continue work on the 2. I have fitted repair sections to both of my front wings. A ready made 12" section to the nearside, and a 4" home made section to the offside. The original edge wire is extended well into the new sections and mig welded at the ends of the seam. The seam itself is joggled and spot welded every 1". Question is..... what's the best way to finish the seam? 1. I could fully seam weld across either the inside or outside of the seam, but I don't want to risk distorting the wing. 2. I could just lead the outside and seam seal the inside. 3. I could use filler, but this would probably crack in time. How have you chaps done yours? Les
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Hi All Can anyone tell me how the Lucas 549 tail lights on the rear of a 1955 TR2 should sit to be focussed correctly? The rear of my car has been completely rebuilt so I have no reference. i.e. Should the lights sit parallel, angled in slightly or angled out? I am assuming that the metal of the rear wing/rear panel sets this angle, or was there an angle on the original lens covers? Should there be a gasket/seal between the metal base and the lens cover? I know there is a rubber gasket between the body and the base. Also Should there be a gasket between the centre brake/number plate light and the body Lucas L564? Should the metal part of this light fitting be chrome or left just metal? Regards Ade
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191033757375 Very expensive TR2 on eBay Bill G@NB
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I have a long (rigid) steering box/column with control head and stator tube surplus to requirements. I suspect the best use for this would be for converting a car from LHD to RHD so I would like to offer the full package. I believe the drop arm and trunnion bracket are different and probably some of the bracketry inside the car. What other parts would be required (maybe someone has a complete list of parts for the conversion)?
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Don’t see a 2 and and 8 together too often in these parts! Two fine machines. Cheers Dan
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I'm in the process of refitting my newly refurbished carbs and have an issue with the alignment/orientation of the linkages that attach to the throttle lever on the front carb throttle shaft. The throttle lever is item 80 in the Moss diagram My issue is that the carbs have come back with this lever set with the ball connecter end much higher than it was such that the link rod (item 84) is along way away as currently set up, and may struggle to reach it even if I extend it to maximum length. This led me to look at the other parts involved in this linkage and I think my set up is incorrect. The parts diagram seems to show that the lever (item 89), that the bottom of the link rod (84) attaches to, sits outboard of the pivot plate (item 86) which is bolted to the Inlet manifold. On my set up this lever sits inboard (i.e. engine block side) of the pivot plate. Additionally the Moss diagram suggests that the longer arm of the lever (89) attaches to the link rod (84) and the shorter arm attached to the rod from the throttle pedal mechanisms - mine is the other way around! Before I start to modify the angle of the throttle lever as the carb refurbisher set it, I thought I ought to check whether my set up of the lever (89) is incorrect and so it would be better to correct that first to see if that resolves the issue. Any advice will be gratefully received as always. Rod
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Tried to start my 2 today (has an aftermarket high torgue starter), and it turned over sluggishly/slowly, and then not at all. No clicking. I thought the battery might be down so I used a trickle charger and topped it off. No joy. So I checked and cleaned the positive ground battery cable and the connections to the starter motor. No joy. Then I checked the engine ground strap and made sure it was securely fastened, which it was. Hard to access the ground strap so I did not remove and clean the contacts. Horn and lights work, and when I press the starter button the ammeter shows a discharge. My guess is a duff high torgue starter, but it has been quite reliable for years. Till now, of course. Any suggestions? Cheers Dan
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Afternoon all, newbie advice please. I need to replace perished lower wishbone outer rubber seals. Question is, can I just unbolt from the trunion and replace or do I need to dismantle the suspension first? Many thanks.
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Hi I have a TR2 with an uprated all synchro gearbox with uprated overdrive currently running 20w/50 oil. That was changed last spring since when I've only done about 600 miles The box has been trouble free until this year when it has become increasingly difficult to change gear when the gearbox is hot. There are no problems when the engine and box are cold but once up to temperature it’s becoming a nuisance I’ve changed the clutch fluid (which had been overlooked) which has improved the gear change but the problem has persisted. Because it improved, it might point to clutch issues but the engagement point on the pedal travel doesn’t seem to change with temperature and there are no signs of fluid loss (hard to tell round the slave cylinder because of the ever present oil drips but the fluid level doesn’t drop). The clutch is a TR6 cover and plate on a TR4A aluminium flywheel Next thoughts are to change the oil for say Millers EP 80w90 Any ideas?
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TR2 has such a simple system and still I can't figure out why pressure builds up until brakes stay on. For the moment I have an emergency solution, as I had an aftermarket brake servo installed, (and did blame it for the pressure build up and removed it) there is a bleed nipple in its place. When I feel the pedal getting lost of play, I just have to bleed the system just a few drops, and I can drive on. I have just 5 year old brake hoses, and just a week ago I replaced all the seals in the master cylinder. I also checked the non return valve in the master cylinder, and it seems to work. What would happen if I took away the valve (as in the picture)? The master cylinder was sleeved by Past Parts, could something have been "blocked" when doing that? There has been no problem bleeding the system, I use Easy-bleed to pressurize the system.
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Hi. My first question on the forum. Having got used to (on all modern cars i.e. anything later than say 1975 ?) having an internal rear view mirror which one can flip down to reduce dazzle from headlamps on following vehicles. I now find, when driving the TR at night, I am having to move the mirror down to avoid dazzle - but then cannont see anything rearwards. Has anyone come up with a solution to this while maintaining the right look for the mirror. Obviously one could fit a "modern" mirror but most would look quite wrong. Bob.
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Hi I was wondering if there was an original engineering drawing showing the hole positions for tenax pegs in TR2 doors and rear quarter panels? Hoping to make a card template to drill correctly before paint. I obtained a replacement original door but somebody has re-dropped the tenax holes incorrectly due to the wood no longer holding the screw pegs. I’ve also replaced the rear quarter panels so no holes exist at present. Kind regards Ade
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
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Just spotted this lot on eBay and wondered if the current owner of this car is a member here. Some historical documents, tax discs etc I’m not associated to the seller. The car is on DVLA site still, last log book issued 1985. TS7707 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-triumph-TR2-documents-/224815714402?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Regards Ade
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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The red seal in my (standard) petrol cap has seen better days. Using a vernier the spec is approximately as below, it is currently a red fibrous material as far as I can tell and it sits in a square section grove. Internal diameter 53.5mm External Diameter 62mm Depth of seal 4mm My basic question is where can I get one ? They are not listed as a separate item in my spare parts book. (I can not find it anyway). Thanks, John
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Hi All, I have a couple of queries regarding my TR2 body tub which has been restored and is now sat in primer. I think there are a couple of ‘man made holes’ which perhaps need welding up but I’d like a second opinion please… I've attached a couple of photos Pic 1 - Large hole in LHS just above the temporary body bracing. Pic 2 - 2 x Slotted holes just to the right of the loudspeaker aperture on RHS. Any help gratefully received Cheers Ade
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Anyone got a good picture of the TR2 brass body number plate or just the measures, mine is missing. Thanks to Bill Pigott I now have the body number and some other data that Heritage register didn't have. /Inge
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The brake lights on my '55 TR2 have suddenly stopped working - everything else still working OK though. So I suspect the brake light pressure switch. But, checked the wiring to the switch and it doesn't match the standard wiring diagram I have. Mine is a 2 terminal switch which has 1 black wire and 1 Green with red stripe going to it. The odd thing is 12v is present in both wires when running. Anyone else have this arrangement? - or understand how the switch works with 2 live wires? The wiring harness was replaced 30 years ago BTW and everything was working fine until now. Many thanks Bob
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We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found an angular torque did not provide the torque recommendation. Thanks for any advice Peter W PS. Photos are for principal of how the measurement is done. Not the measurements finally observed.
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I'm getting a bit of acid bubbling out of the battery cell caps on our MG Midget. The set up is pretty similar to the TR2 - positive earth, a dynamo and the same control box/voltage regulator - part number 3H1835. It is possible I've slightly overfilled the cells and that is the problem, but I'd like to check that the battery isn't being overcharged in case that is the cause. I believe all I need to do is put a voltmeter onto the battery and check the reading when the engine is running and charging. What voltage levels should I be looking for? I ought to check the TR voltages too as I'm not sure the battery charges very well... Thanks -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
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I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset by the 8mm, the other pair is not. This has the effect of offsetting the rim (tyre) by this amount and I don't feel too happy to mix these on the same axle. Does anyone know if this is a TR2 -TR3 build difference?..... and what are the thoughts on mixing on the axle ? ( I can obviously only carry one wheel type as a spare). Thanks Bob
