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Showing results for tags 'tr250'.
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Air Bypass valve, has anyone blanked this off, and what affect did it have? Paul
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The bonnet on my 250 has a dip in it on the near side about 6 inches in from the windscreen end. I understand this is a weak spot. how is it cured any ideas would be helpfull.
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The Wiper motor on my 250 is 1 speed but has a 2 speed switch. Having removed the dash it is obvious 1 of the wires red/light green has been snipped. The other colour are blue and light green and brown and light green. I attach a photo of the motor, is it 2 speed and if so which wire goes where on the switch.
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Anyone seen this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172002897959?euid=1ad7b2aec9a6402a8ebb476e92184d0a&cp=1&exe=12742&ext=32470&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext Deliberate misinterpretation if you ask me..... I contacted the seller to detail the car is a TR250 with chassis number CD 2591 L and he said "he's not doing anything illegal!! Discuss
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For the first time since it arrived in Europe in about 1990, I have the head off my TR250 (no-emission equipment, running on 2 x HS6, also, I think with a fast road cam). It seems to have been skimmed and ports polished at some stage when it lived in Fresno. Actual head thickness is 3.457". According to the Moss catalogue the standard thickness is 3.4375". See table below. On the next page of the Moss catalogue for European users it recommends skimming US spec heads by about 0.100", to end up with 3.375" (to raise compression ratio to 9.5:1). This would seem to suggest standard thickness should be 3.475". Can anyone say definitively if the data in the table is a mis-print? On a similar theme, if I skimmed to the suggested 3.375" would I need shorter push rods? Moss seem to offer push rods from 7.99" to 8.30". Current length is 8.1" so I would only gain 0.1". Unfortunately I don't know the cam specification, but there always seemed to be plenty of space for tappet adjustment. Many thanks in anticipation of some much needed wisdom from someone whio might have been down this road.
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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Gentlemen, I have been offered a Lucas DR3A wiper motor for my 4A. However, it is not the 75568A, which is the model number of the motor according to the one presently on my car. Can anyone please tell me if a Lucas DR3A 75607B is a two speed model and if it would be a suitable straight fit replacement for my 4A? I haven't seen the item as it was offered me via the internet. Thanks Graham
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It’s great to see that Revival Motorsport Fabrications are remanufacturing the Surrey Backlight Frames for TR’s. It looks like a quality product too - (Photos taken from their Instagram page. I have no connection to this company). Ade
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Can any one recommend a wind deflector that works well and wont break the bank? There are many mesh ones around £100+ but do they work. What is the best shape?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
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Just a query really, I am thinking about fitting an electric fuel pump to my Tr 250, currently on strombergs, I know people will have done this but was wondering if anyone has a recommendation for which pump, and where to position, any info including photos would be welcome. Paul
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Buy it now at 100$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR250-GT6-GT6-Original-Steering-Wheel-15/172104242382?_trksid=p2055119.c100022.m2048&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122153519%26meid%3D98f11c16135b49e1821a0f85d7876f80%26pid%3D100022%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D322004550194
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In case anyone is looking for one, I spotted this ROM for sale on ebay. Price is currently very low so possibly a great bargain for someone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triuph-Original-TR5-TR6-Repair-Operation-Manual/303462077421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This is the version of the manual that I have and that I used throughout my restoration. No connection, just spotted it. Sean
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I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
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Hi all I am looking for a TR250 choke cable that works to fit to a carb engine any condition LHD car. Cheers All.
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I have a Lucas 15ac alternator with a external regulator, and intend replacing with a 18ARC with an internal regulator. Car has been rewired with a RHD TR5 wire loom. Is there a wiring drawing showing the modification required to the wiring
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Hi I am nearing the end of a complete renovation of my 1967 TR250 and am struggling to find either replacement or new rear wing badges as mine are somewhat worn.I have hunted in the states and in the UK. with no luck. Getting new ones made is expensive and no one is sure whether they are paint infill and chrome letters or are enameled. They certainly do not look like regular enamel cream infill so i have ground to a halt. I wondered if anyone knew what the actual make up is and where i might get them renovated or replaced? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Regards David
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FND 205F Looks like a TR250 but advertised as a TR5! Used to ATR 5F I think.... Chassis Number CD 1762L and a CC Engine number with PI added.... Smells like a rat......very naughty behaviour IMHO https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1009168
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Folks. I have been constantly hearing regards fake cars. Time to do something simple ie post the suspect cars and let some so called experts help unsuspecting buyers. It will be very easy to create a database on FaceBook. yes I know a lot of people dont like FB but do you like the idea of of people buying cars that are 'Ringer's?' Doesnt that damage our reputations too. Those new owners might just join the register one day. So there we are to start the ball rolling I have started a FB group for this. If you have good knowledge please pop over and either give your expertise, post photos of cars or if you need a hand deciding anyway. Please help other to look after the Marque in this sense too. Tony The 'TR Ringers' FB group. To combat the despicable habit of selling cars for what they are not Such as Tr250's as Tr5's and Tr7 with a v8 as Tr8's I have started another group. You are free to join if you can give advise or want to check a car? The official wording is Welcome to this group. It has been formed to address the ever increasing number of Tr's that are being converted and then sold as something they didn't come out of the factory as for instance a Tr250 being sold as a Tr5 or a Tr7 which has had a 3500 v8 conversion. Whether you want to help stop the phenomenon or need help assessing a car. Please join the cause. https://www.facebook.com/groups/234504900530639/?ref=br_rs
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Not everyones cup of tea I know, but defo the best way to share generic info and photos. As a life long Michelotti fan and friend of the family I felt it was time to start a FaceBook page dedicated to Michelotti and the 1200 designs of his which became cars as although we love our Triumphs he designed Jaguars and all sorts. Did you know he has 192 Ferrari designs that became cars? Anyway for anyone interested in seeing and sharing there is now a FB group called The Michelotti Cars where fans and car owners can join in. https://www.facebook.com/groups/271937770263969/ All the best and look forward to seeing some of you. Tony
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Not everyones cup of tea I know, but defo the best way to share generic info and photos. As a life long Michelotti fan and friend of the family I felt it was time to start a FaceBook page dedicated to Michelotti and the 1200 designs of his which became cars as although we love our Triumphs he designed Jaguars and all sorts. Did you know he has 192 Ferrari designs that became cars? Anyway for anyone interested in seeing and sharing there is now a FB group called The Michelotti Cars where fans and car owners can join in. https://www.facebook...71937770263969/ All the best and look forward to seeing some of you. Tony
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Hello guys, do you know if there is a supplier who sell decent plenum corner repair panels, ie left and right extremities of the plenum panel ? I've got a TR5 and a very early (CP 2500*) TR6 who are rusted here, so ready (or nearly ready) to use repair panels could be usefull !
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Had problems with the Overdrive that turned out to be the switch. So I replaced it, but this one is nearly as bad in as much as the overdrive will keep dropping out and reengaging. Are they all from the same source or are some better than others? Definitely the switch because if I put pressure on it I can get The overdrive to cycle! Or has anyone managed a good modification?
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Hi Everyone I've not been on the TR Forum for a good while, mainly due to other car commitments but now I'm looking to do some work on my TR50 resto. I have a 2.5S saloon gearbox with J Type overdrive that I intend to install in my GT6. This would be a straight swap since I have been running it with an identical unit for nearly 30 years. This leaks profusely and is of unknown mileage, but still has an excellent shift. Once this swap is done I intend to have the ex-GT6 box rebuilt and eventually use it to replace the non overdrive unit currently fitted in the TR250. I'm looking to have the rebuild done by a local company since I'd like to be able to deliver it personally rather than risk using a courier. I've been asked the same questions -availability of spare parts for both the gearbox and overdrive. I'm not sure about the gearbox but it sticks in my mind that there is a company that rebuilds overdrives, or am I having a senior moment? Ideally I'd like to have the same company rebuild both and source the parts themselves. Any recommendations please for both parts suppliers and also rebuilders? Cheers Alan
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Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
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