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Showing results for tags 'tr3'.
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Nice project for someone? I have no connection with seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/236018998354?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nhid5UJ9QN-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=zwdCaZN1Tl6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Regards Ade
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Hi Everyone The hood bow attachment arms are quite loose and rattle when the frame is tucked away. I think by looking at the frame that these may be riveted together. Can anyone advise what is the best way to approach this i.e do I drill them out. What would people recommend as a replacement for the rivets Regards Brian
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Hi Everyone I wondered if anyone has a solution for paint cracking the headlight area. Soon after I restored the car in 2013 the paint cracked along the crease where the headlight meets the apron. In January I decided to have the apron resprayed due to a number of stone chips. The panelbeater removed all the lead in that area and left the spot welds which then covered with a skim of filler. The paint has cracked again and don't know what to do next. Question is - should this area be a complete weld? and what have others done. I am assuming this is to do with skuttle shake. Ignore the line to the right - this is a wrap I had put on the protect from further stone chips Regards Brian
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Did all TR3s have the wiper motor mounted on the nearside?
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I have a long (rigid) steering box/column with control head and stator tube surplus to requirements. I suspect the best use for this would be for converting a car from LHD to RHD so I would like to offer the full package. I believe the drop arm and trunnion bracket are different and probably some of the bracketry inside the car. What other parts would be required (maybe someone has a complete list of parts for the conversion)?
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Hi Everyone My overdrive developed an oil leak and investigation revealed that it is coming from the plunger and o ring area. I have taken the plate off and there are 2 o rings behind the collar at the front of the plate. Another TR member advises that this plate is not correct as the o ring should sit in a cavity on the back of the plate. There is no cavity on my plate. He is sending me a spare plate he has. Can anyone throw any light on what I have and how the o rings seal. The cavity is deep enough to take 2 o rings so how does it form a good seal. Do I have a part missing. Regards Brian
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Hi Everyone This may have been covered before but I could not find any thread. Due to having short legs I have to have the seat right forward which impedes the full movement of the handbrake lever. Will adjusting (shortening) the cable from the lever to the compensator fix this issue. With the seat back the handbrake works on the last click Regards Brian
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Hi Everyone I recently purchased a new radiator cap for my TR3 as I noticed the old one had a split in the bottom rubber piece. I put the new one on and had major overheating issues. The radiator is out and has been flushed by radiator firm. I noticed that the new cap has a rubber seal in the top and is loose but the old cap has no such seal. They are both 4lb caps. The radiator still has the crank hole and no overflow bottle Should the cap have the rubber seal or not. Regards Brian
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Hi All and Happy New year I currently have the front apron off to fix a cooling issue and thought I should try and fix the steering box oil leak. So I ask for your guidance - Can I change the seal with the box in situ. Looking at the box it seems that I could remove the drop arm and slip off the trunnion by undoing the bolts. Is the seal pressed in place and also can the bush be changed by this method Thank you for your advise in advance Regards Brian
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I bought some cork gland washers AUC2120 to rebuild the carb jets. There are two per jet, an upper and lower. The washers are slightly splayed, which way should they go in please? The brass cup that supports the washer fits better on the narrower side.
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Hi All and Happy New Year to everyone. Could someone advise the level the brake fluid should be in the master cylinder. Brakes and clutch have been bled but fluid is coming out of the top (and has damaged the paint work- very annoying). A friend said that fluid should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from top to allow expansion. I can't find any level indicator on the cylinder. I have a booster also. Your thoughts appreciated Regards Brian
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Hi All I have a petrol leak which seems to be coming from the stud area on the back carb inlet manifold. It is hard to detect as the petrol is evaporating on the exhaust manifold. I notice that part of the inlet manifold may be missing - near the stud - where it rests on the ehaust manifold It is a high port head and gaskets appear dry. I have taken the stud out and it is wet so I am assuming that the petrol is coming from this point. Does the stud hole go right through the body of the inlet manifold causing petrol to seep through. It only occurs after engine is switched off If I need a new manifold who are the best providers Regards Brian
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Hi All I know there has been some discussion around the poor fitting of some sumps. Recently when I took out the plug to change the oil the thread on the sump was very brittle and I had to do a retap and fit a bigger plug. I have spoken to a local alloy repairer who has many years in the business. Not having seen the sump he said be may be able to put a speedi sleeve in. He thinks that due to its age (original with car so 65 years old) I would probably be better off getting a new one. He thinks being that old it would probably have been made with a magnesium component and likely to be porous. I'm no expert so would I better going new. TR Shop seem the best value but freight is high due to travel half way round the world. All up £370 or NZ$720. Thoughts appreciated Regards Brian
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Hi I have a TR2 with an uprated all synchro gearbox with uprated overdrive currently running 20w/50 oil. That was changed last spring since when I've only done about 600 miles The box has been trouble free until this year when it has become increasingly difficult to change gear when the gearbox is hot. There are no problems when the engine and box are cold but once up to temperature it’s becoming a nuisance I’ve changed the clutch fluid (which had been overlooked) which has improved the gear change but the problem has persisted. Because it improved, it might point to clutch issues but the engagement point on the pedal travel doesn’t seem to change with temperature and there are no signs of fluid loss (hard to tell round the slave cylinder because of the ever present oil drips but the fluid level doesn’t drop). The clutch is a TR6 cover and plate on a TR4A aluminium flywheel Next thoughts are to change the oil for say Millers EP 80w90 Any ideas?
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Hi All I am about to change my dash lights to LED bulbs. I know that all 6 are in line but wondered if they can be separated i.e speedo on a separate wire, same with rev counter and the wires going into the switch or spliced into one wire. Regards Brian
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Hi, are there any tips or "tricks" to connecting the fuel pipe to the fuel tank, TR3. There's no washer and I'm not sure the old pipe didn't leak all the time in any-case. Are there any sealants that anyone recommends or do the threads alone do the job? Thank you
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Hi all, In a moment of stupidity, I cleared a number of what I thought were unwanted photos off my phone. As soon as I did it I realised I'd deleted the photos of the stripdown of my spare dynamo. I have been able to complete most of the rebuild from memory, but I'm not sure if the connection from the field coil attaches to the brush holder in the end plate. i have the lead from the field coil to the small lucar fitted but have not secured the other lead yet. Can't see where else it could go but thought I'd ask before I did something equally stupid! Thanks in advance, Laurence
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Hi. My first question on the forum. Having got used to (on all modern cars i.e. anything later than say 1975 ?) having an internal rear view mirror which one can flip down to reduce dazzle from headlamps on following vehicles. I now find, when driving the TR at night, I am having to move the mirror down to avoid dazzle - but then cannont see anything rearwards. Has anyone come up with a solution to this while maintaining the right look for the mirror. Obviously one could fit a "modern" mirror but most would look quite wrong. Bob.
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Hi. I am thinking of putting wing mirrors on the guards. Can anyone advise whereabouts they should be positioned. I have a mirror attached to Staunton but it vibrates too much and hard to see. Thanks. Brian
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Hi I was wondering if there was an original engineering drawing showing the hole positions for tenax pegs in TR2 doors and rear quarter panels? Hoping to make a card template to drill correctly before paint. I obtained a replacement original door but somebody has re-dropped the tenax holes incorrectly due to the wood no longer holding the screw pegs. I’ve also replaced the rear quarter panels so no holes exist at present. Kind regards Ade
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My clutch was ab bit slow to engage but worked otherwise so I decided it was time for a rebuild. The little wave washer on the inner end of the clutch master cylinder was completely flat, no wave in it at all. I don't know if that was my problem but the problem now is finding a replacement. They seem to be quite scarce. Lots of the catalog pictures show the part but after getting a couple of kits without the washer, I find that they have been eliminated from most kits. (I do have some used ones from old cylinders but would prefer new.) Anyone Know of a source and did that washer cause my problem? I also polished the bore as well as I could and will switch back to DOT4 from Dot 5. I don't know how many times one can bent the tab on the thimble (11) and the hole for the pin is not getting any smaller. Those are not available either. Of course there is the whole new unit route, cheap and easy, but that idea is not appealing. Tom
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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Hi just curious if anyone has swapped a tr7 5 speed into a tr3? If so any insights would be appreciated regarding the clutch, pressure plate, pinion etc. I a not sure if anyone sells the adaptor for the bellhousing end or for the gearbox end to weld onto the existing tr3 bellhousing. Thanks in adavance.
