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Showing results for tags 'tr3b'.
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I have a long (rigid) steering box/column with control head and stator tube surplus to requirements. I suspect the best use for this would be for converting a car from LHD to RHD so I would like to offer the full package. I believe the drop arm and trunnion bracket are different and probably some of the bracketry inside the car. What other parts would be required (maybe someone has a complete list of parts for the conversion)?
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Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted.
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Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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Hi just curious if anyone has swapped a tr7 5 speed into a tr3? If so any insights would be appreciated regarding the clutch, pressure plate, pinion etc. I a not sure if anyone sells the adaptor for the bellhousing end or for the gearbox end to weld onto the existing tr3 bellhousing. Thanks in adavance.
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We are at an interesting point with the TR2 engine build. Conrods are MaxPeeding fitted with ARP 2000 bolts The supplied spec says use 45 ft lbs torque and ARP thread lube. This suggests it gives 0.005”- 0.006” bolt stretch Have checked torque wrench accuracy and it is fine. Torqued the bolts and we are getting only 0.003”-0.004” stretch. Should the torque be increased with hope of getting the greater stretch or left as recommended? I have read Bob’s actions with these rods and bolts in his excellent rebuild thread and he found an angular torque did not provide the torque recommendation. Thanks for any advice Peter W PS. Photos are for principal of how the measurement is done. Not the measurements finally observed.
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I'm painting a set of TR2/3 steel wheels at the moment, size 4J x 15 as per the original standard. During the prep work I have noticed the centre hub section of two of my the wheels are positioned at approximately 7 or 8mm inset on the rim compared to the others. The wheels all carry the same stampings and part number except for one minor detail, on the front face in between the wheel nuts some have an additional letter '2' stamped on them. The additional stamping is consistent with the centre of the wheel being inset or not. I now realise I have 2 pairs: one pair the hub is inset by the 8mm, the other pair is not. This has the effect of offsetting the rim (tyre) by this amount and I don't feel too happy to mix these on the same axle. Does anyone know if this is a TR2 -TR3 build difference?..... and what are the thoughts on mixing on the axle ? ( I can obviously only carry one wheel type as a spare). Thanks Bob
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Hi, I got some questions if i could share pictures of the spot lamps brackets I made for my tr2 instead of the bumper brackets. Liked the look allthough I will return the original setup now i'm fully restoring the car. Here's a picture of the lamps in situ, taken on Francorchamp. I used the origal brackets as a template to create a new bracket to which I welded a cilinder. I used a solid bar and hollowed it, so i had 1 side closed. I drilled the closed site to the size of the SFR700 lamp stud. The holes in the brackets were meant for the mount to hold the Lucas horns like the OVC276 (never got to it to fit them...) The hole in the back is used for the wires to get a clean look on the front Mind you, these are milimeters ! After the welding i had them powder coated. It still looks good after 4 years in front of the car. Tip: buy covers for the lamps, I was too late, the first chips are there.. Have fun creating. Any questions, just let me know. Disclaimer: Never intended to create exact copies of the real ones, so there will be differences from the real deal.
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Hi folks, I’m trying to track down one of these grilles for my TR3a. If you have one you’d like to sell, or know of one for sale, please let me know. Thanks David
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Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
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Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
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Hello everybody, I'm Martin, a long-time TR fan and recent addition to your forum. I'm a displaced Brit, living in Seattle, Washington. I owned a 1959 TR3a for around 3 years during my time living in Switzerland and since arriving here in the USA, I've had a hankering for another. Recent searching has turned up a 1962 TR3b, which has laid dormant for 27 years. I have agreed to purchase the car and will be starting on its restoration this winter. I would be interested to know how many TR3b's are known to survive. Does anyone have a record? Also, I ordered from British Motor Heritage a certificate, only to be informed that the build record for my car is missing. Has anyone else experienced this and is there another way to find out the information? So far I have been able to determine that my car was built between 2 dates, approximately a month apart, but it would be great to confirm the original build information as the car appears to be largely original and unmolested. Thanks in advance for any help received. Martin.
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Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
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My engine builder has started sorting out some of my spare blocks, cylinder heads and cranks in order to build a couple of race engines, one for a TR2 and a spare for my TR4. To get straight to the point, if youre in need of a new engine for your TR2, 3 or 4, I may be able to provide a freshly built modified fast road full engine. Not a full spec but, 89mm pistons and liners, balanced crank, cam to be decided (perhaps what you would like), modified cylinder head, lightened flywheel. Therell be all manner of other quality bits included in the build. The reason for this is that I have a new set of quality 89mm pistons and one with a whole host of other parts. This would be perfect for the owner looking to update his engine, without the hassle, or to the person building a car, but who does not have an engine for it. Price is as yet unknown as spec is uncertain. If youre interested, please get in touch and let me know as soon as possible as this will help me make a decision as to whether or not to build this third engine. David
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NOS Amco 5004 - Sidescreen car Wind Wings for sale
BlueTR3A-5EKT posted a topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
I have for sale a NOS pair of boxed AMCO 5004 wind wings made specifically for TR2/3/3A/3B in their original box. These are not the Chinese repro items and have the AMCO logo embossed on them. Offered here first, before BST gets a dip, then they go on eBay. AMCO as we all know is the US company that made and supplied parts & accessories to Triumph dealers in the USA when the cars were new. The blurb about wind wings reads as follows. Original Wind Wings offered by Triumph dealers during the 1950’s and 1960’s. These wind wings were installed as wind deflectors on the side of the windshield frames and attached to the chrome lip. Constructed of Plexiglass with chrome mounting hardware and secured with allen screws. No drilling required. This is the items:- https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/triumph/rare-triumph-tr2-tr3-tr3a-tr3b-amco-wind-wings-5004/ GB £ 200.00 plus carriage. Please PM me if interested. Peter W -
Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
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Hi. Im looking for a right hand drive steering box and column (ideally split) to fit into a side screen car which is being built as a race car. It must meet with proper regulations so needs a steering box, rather than a steering rack. If you have a spare one knocking around, or have converted your car to rack and pinion steering, do please let me know. Thanks David
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Not in bad shape, taken on the appearance of a cullender in places but good for parts or for repair / re-skinning. Has to be collected by 20th Feb or its off to the metal scrap with it - which seems a real loss. Free Of Charge if you are using it for yourself. Collect from Chelmsford PM me if interested with your contact details Bob
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Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec -
Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to be paying a bit more for a Stanpart item. Phone number is 01371 870175, and as Helen is pretty much holding the fort on her tod at the moment then you might have to be patient. Ray and Helen are after all semi-retired, gradually clearing the rump stock of their former TR Improvements business, it's not like they're still a full-time trading concern. Before anyone jumps down my throat, then yes Ray and I have known each other for more than 40 years . . . . and I've known other TR specialists just as long, and longer. None of which influences me unduly when it comes to commenting on their offerings, for better or worse. Cheers Alec
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Having been shopping recently, I have a few bits and bobs available for sale! I have attached some photos showing some of the original Stanpart panels which will be for sale. These include doors, wings, bonnets, boots, windscreen frames and other parts for TR2 to TR6 cars. There's lots not in the pictures. I think I'm going to be busy over Christmas sorting stuff out. I also have some 6 cylinder engines, a complete TR250 bodyshell, gearboxes and all manner of other original Stanpart parts. In due course, pictures and descriptions of parts will be available to see online at www.stanpart.uk.com There's nothing to see at the moment. Visitors will be welcome to come and view parts if needs be. I am close to the British Motor Museum at Gaydon, and the Coventry Transport Museum. I can be contacted by PM if needs be. David
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4 x original Triumph TR wheel caps. Chrome fairly poor but the caps themselves are very straight, no dents. Sorry - No badges incl. FREE to anyone who can use them, postage to pay, estimated at under a tenner (probably). PM me if interested. Regards Bob please also see other caps offered from unknown Triumph model
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My good friend Julian Richards has one of Andy Wiltshire's tanks in his 3A, and pointed out this advert to me . . . . . In my humble opinion, Andy's tanks were quite simply the best calibre tanks ever made for TRs. NLA, as they do not provide him with an adequate financial return to a one-man band with a full order book of tanks for megabuck exotica. Fair comment, the man's a superb craftsman, he's worked for and deserves his niche market. I very much doubt you're ever likely to see another for sale. Absolute bargain, and nowt to do with me ! Link to ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3A-AXMINSTER-SPECIALIST-PANELS-FUEL-TANK-/112533036867?hash=item1a337ddf43:g:FNsAAOSw74VZjc~K Usual disclaimers . . . . . Cheers Ale
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Hi I received this PM and i thought you might be interested in it. Hi Dougal What are your recommendations for changing tubes and rim tapes? Do you recommend changing them at each tyre change baring in mind that tyre changes for us are normally forced by age considerations rather than wear. It is sort of discretionary. tyre and inner tube manufacturers say change tubes every time you change a tyre. I would also suggest that when a tyre is 10 years old it has had it. I would suggest the same rule applies for tubes. I change my tubes every time i change a tyre, baring in mi8nd with my racing car i change the rear tyres 3 times a year. I suppose we all accept that if money were no object we would change our tubes regularly. However, money predominantly is a big object. Tubes do wear. if you imagine the bit of the inner tube that presses against where the tyre sits on the rim, that is the area that wears most. So if you are happy that the tube you have isn't too old and it is a good quality one then you can inspect that area for wear (it looks like it has sort of been nibbled). you can find it because there will be a line running round the inside circumference of the tube that you can follow round starting from the valve stem. this is the most likely area to get wear. However; if in doubt fitr a new tube. It always rains when you are on the side of a road with a puncture. we encourage our customers to fit Michelin http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/classic-tyre-inner-tubes they are £ 12 + VAT at present. I think that is good to say it is a Michelin product
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Hi everyone, Purchased a tr3 to do up recently, wondering what year it's from? Vin number : TS 22510 and might have an L at the end. Any thoughts? Many thanks Richard
