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Showing results for tags 'tr4'.
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I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
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Sorry chaps I know it has come up before but cannot immediately get the answer on past topics. The state of the roads this afternoon made one of the rear Surrey alloy top fixing bolts drop out! Could not locate the thread at side of the road so thought it had stripped but after taking off the top when getting home I found the bolt screwed in perfectly when it was laid on the ground (it would!) but is a real struggle to locate the thread when on the car, as many others have found. I am now going to fit studs to the rear (fronts fit fine). Can somebody who has fitted studs tell me the size & length of stud I would need & where from? What is the best Loctite to use for stud fixing or should they be welded in? Cheers, thanks & apologies.
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Hi, Following on from a MOT tester entering the wrong registration number into the system and having to sort that out, a possible problem has come to light regarding the Comm No. of my 1962 TR4. I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9180 O'. However the VIN plate shows CT91380 which also stated on the V5C. My questions are, how do I convince the DVLC to re-issue a V5C with the correct number without having to change the VIN plate stating that the 0 is in fact an O. Or would I have to get a new VIN plate showing 'CT9138 O'. Would it be a problem if I left as is. Within the history file for the car CT91380 appears to have been referenced throughout. Any advice welcome. Thanks Andy
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Folks. I have been constantly hearing regards fake cars. Time to do something simple ie post the suspect cars and let some so called experts help unsuspecting buyers. It will be very easy to create a database on FaceBook. yes I know a lot of people dont like FB but do you like the idea of of people buying cars that are 'Ringer's?' Doesnt that damage our reputations too. Those new owners might just join the register one day. So there we are to start the ball rolling I have started a FB group for this. If you have good knowledge please pop over and either give your expertise, post photos of cars or if you need a hand deciding anyway. Please help other to look after the Marque in this sense too. Tony The 'TR Ringers' FB group. To combat the despicable habit of selling cars for what they are not Such as Tr250's as Tr5's and Tr7 with a v8 as Tr8's I have started another group. You are free to join if you can give advise or want to check a car? The official wording is Welcome to this group. It has been formed to address the ever increasing number of Tr's that are being converted and then sold as something they didn't come out of the factory as for instance a Tr250 being sold as a Tr5 or a Tr7 which has had a 3500 v8 conversion. Whether you want to help stop the phenomenon or need help assessing a car. Please join the cause. https://www.facebook.com/groups/234504900530639/?ref=br_rs
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Not everyones cup of tea I know, but defo the best way to share generic info and photos. As a life long Michelotti fan and friend of the family I felt it was time to start a FaceBook page dedicated to Michelotti and the 1200 designs of his which became cars as although we love our Triumphs he designed Jaguars and all sorts. Did you know he has 192 Ferrari designs that became cars? Anyway for anyone interested in seeing and sharing there is now a FB group called The Michelotti Cars where fans and car owners can join in. https://www.facebook.com/groups/271937770263969/ All the best and look forward to seeing some of you. Tony
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Hi everyone As part of a forthcoming project, I am looking to assemble a complete set of OE timber dashboards for all the TR models - I put a wanted ad in BST and got almost didly squat responses. Through other sources, I have managed to acquire most versions but an still missing a Tr4 and a CR TR6 versions - there must be lots of these rotting away in peoples sheds gathering dust, having been replaced - I'm not after good useable versions - awful condition is fine so long as the basic plywood sub structure is intact Happy to pay postage and/or collect, but can't justify payment for the dash itself. Can anybody help? Will also post this under the TR6 forum Cheers Rich
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My J type overdrive started intermittently phasing in & out on the last spirited drive followed me discovering that the gearbox was low on oil in the absence of anything else I had topped it up with full mineral 20W-60 (not sure what had been in there previously) prior to the long (300km) drive It started on RH corners then was doing it regularly in all circumstances I thought it may be oil related so today emptied the gearbox & re filled with Penrite 80W-90 Gear Oil (which Penrite recommend) doesnt seem to have made any real difference - when not under load it holds the overdrive gearing but under acceleration drops back Out of overdrive any suggestions? could it be the solenoid playing up & no relation to the oil? advice welcome Graeme
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My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not. This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis. These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around. Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke? Should I forget all about them? James
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Hi All, Anybody suffered this. I am getting oily greasy smuts thrown up into the engine bay & as it is a white car it all becomes a bit unsightly after a run, with little black dots! Although the engine is relatively leak free I think oil from say the timing cover must be ending up on the fan belt & being thrown up from the rotation of the belt. The belt does appear rather black & greasy when wiped with a rag. Apart from yet another timing case oil seal does anybody else have any ideas & cures? Thanks.
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Hello guys, do you know if there is a supplier who sell decent plenum corner repair panels, ie left and right extremities of the plenum panel ? I've got a TR5 and a very early (CP 2500*) TR6 who are rusted here, so ready (or nearly ready) to use repair panels could be usefull !
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TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13/16” (2.0mm) towards the centre from the outer edge (where it has greatest affect on inertia), and so the cover plate is mounted on pillars and fixed with Allen screws. SOLD 6) TR4 clutch cover plate (to fit the flywheel). SOLD 7) Rear springs for TR2/3/4 – no information on these as I cannot remember how/when I acquired them! SOLD 8) Steering rack, probably from TR7, but lacks the arm on one side. To be collected from Aldbury, near Tring (Herts). I don’t want lots of cash, I just want to be rid of the parts to TR people who could make use of them, not into the skip at the dump! PM me if interested. Ian Cornish
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Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
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Had problems with the Overdrive that turned out to be the switch. So I replaced it, but this one is nearly as bad in as much as the overdrive will keep dropping out and reengaging. Are they all from the same source or are some better than others? Definitely the switch because if I put pressure on it I can get The overdrive to cycle! Or has anyone managed a good modification?
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Hi everyone. Just discovered that there doesn't appear to be info in the TR4 Workshop Manual on how to adjust the accelerator pedal screw. It is referred to in the Manual - P1.306, Fig 11, Items 23 & 24. However, nothing as to the correct setting. The excess thread sticks out rather a long way from the scuttle panel. See pics attached. Does anyone have a starter figure? Best wishes Willie.
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On 21st June, an auction is scheduled to take place under the Charterhouse banner at which two Rally plates are being offered: 1 - Lot 142, 1962 Tulip plate #10 (5VC, Thuner/Gretener) 2 - Lot 135, 1963 Liège plate #155 (4VC, Sutcliffe/Fidler) I aware of the name of the vendor of these plates. After email discussions with David Somerville (who drew my attention to the auction), Tony Sheach, Gareth Firth and Neil Revington, and additionally with Graham Robson and Bill Price (both of whom were actively involved in the era), Tony and I have decided not to bid for these plates. Anyone else who might be considering a bid should be very diligent in their research work as these plates are not cheap - and the auction house adds 28.8% to cover buyer premium and VAT! Ian Cornish
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Now, where exactly does it plug in.....? - No rude answers thank you! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Fault-reset-Scanner-for-TRIUMPH-TR4-6/173367546376?hash=item285d82d208:g:IRQAAOSw5P9bJR5d
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Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaft arm to top hole but no real difference. As I write this, we decided to order new master & slave cylinders to complete the overhaul, but can anyone give me an opinion on what the trouble might be? Hoping desperately that the transmission doesn't need to come out again. As an extra from a previous post, does the assembly pictured indicate the TT1032 rear engine seal is fitted? I also enc pic of the pedal and cotter pin which has grooved in a mere 3 years or so. Best wishes Willie
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Hi All, I am hoping someone will pick this request up and confirm a point of confusion before my TR4 gets the gearbox overhaul completed. WHICH WAY ROUND DOES THE CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING GO? Does the larger diameter flat face point outwards from the bellhousing as the original TR4 Workshop Manual illustrates? That is how the bearing is set currently, but in the next couple of hours we will either commit to that or have to open the assembly up and swap it round. I hope this reaches an authority on the subject in time!! Best wishes Willie
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Hi Folks, I hope you experts out there can give me some info. I am about to undertake gearbox overhaul, but as there are some annoying oil leaks I want to replace the rear engine seal. The engine has had the oil scroll to oil seal conversion carried out. Is it possible to replace the seal by removing the flywheel and nothing else with the engine still in the car? Best wishes Willie
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one learn something new everyday.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Tr4-Works-Wing-Vent-Panel-Herald-Grill-Panels/112781676882?hash=item1a424fd152:g:xRMAAOSw4QdabiMe
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My engine builder has started sorting out some of my spare blocks, cylinder heads and cranks in order to build a couple of race engines, one for a TR2 and a spare for my TR4. To get straight to the point, if youre in need of a new engine for your TR2, 3 or 4, I may be able to provide a freshly built modified fast road full engine. Not a full spec but, 89mm pistons and liners, balanced crank, cam to be decided (perhaps what you would like), modified cylinder head, lightened flywheel. Therell be all manner of other quality bits included in the build. The reason for this is that I have a new set of quality 89mm pistons and one with a whole host of other parts. This would be perfect for the owner looking to update his engine, without the hassle, or to the person building a car, but who does not have an engine for it. Price is as yet unknown as spec is uncertain. If youre interested, please get in touch and let me know as soon as possible as this will help me make a decision as to whether or not to build this third engine. David
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Anybody seen this? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183234020009 Not everyones cup of tea I know, but right up my street M.D. A proper job has been done on it. Small car + big engine = fun Id be very tempted if it wasnt for a couple of points....the roll cage would certainly make it too tight for my Lardy ar*e, and the exhaust system is underneath the chassis which probably makes speed bumps (and most roads round our way) a no no Shame. Simon
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This can't be right, any suggestions please? I hope the photo works.............if not this post will make no sense at all
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Hi Folks, Another question which I can't get my head around. My car as a late TR4 [July 1964] is displaying strange combustion. Twin CD175 Strombergs are fitted. Numbers 1 & 4 spark plugs look as if the mixture is leanish, whereas numbers 2 & 3 look as if the mixture is too rich! How can the front carb create lead cylinder lean and trailing [#2] cylinder rich, and the rear carb create lead [#3 cylinder] rich and trailing [#4] cylinder lean? To my amateurish eye, it just doesn't make sense! Best wishes Willie
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Help!!! Going on a trip to France next Thursday and taking the TR for the first time. Trying to be a good boy and comply with lighting regs so bought some stick on adaptors. The trouble is the instructions are indecipherable to me and do not list any Triumph. I have sealed beam units any idea where I stick them (on the headlights of course!) Regards John
