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Showing results for tags 'tr5'.
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Does anyone know this vehicle? https://www.trgb.co.uk/collections/cars-for-sale/products/1968-triumph-tr5-original-uk-fuel-injected-with-overdrive I have no association to this vehicle or company. Regards Ade
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I have no connection to car or seller. Ade. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256511643956?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SIDAfVc5Swm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=zwdCaZN1Tl6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Hello, I'm after +0.020 and +0.030 new pistons sets for TR6 (or 2500 saloons, they are the same), what have you, or which supplier would you suggest ?
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Anyone seen this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172002897959?euid=1ad7b2aec9a6402a8ebb476e92184d0a&cp=1&exe=12742&ext=32470&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext Deliberate misinterpretation if you ask me..... I contacted the seller to detail the car is a TR250 with chassis number CD 2591 L and he said "he's not doing anything illegal!! Discuss
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Hi All I now have sourced both bonnet and boot for my TR5, but as they both came from tr4's or 4a's I will need to fill holes and make new ones for the various badges. Does anyone have any information on the exact and correct location for both bonnet and boot. Many thanks Tim
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I am looking for a new set of chrome wire wheels for my tr250. I note the TR shop have a set priced at £960 on ebay. Has any one had any experience of these from this compeny eg quality? Thanks in advance.
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The sidelights and rear lights on my RHD TR5 do not work when the headlights are on - whether dipped or full. If only the sidelights are switched on, they work fine - front and back. It seems to me that the problem must be in the column mounted lighting switch on the left of the steering column and cannot be in the wiring. Is that right? The switch has three positions (off, side and headlights) with a pull for headlight flash. If I do need to repair or replace the switch, getting it out seems to be quite a challenge and may even involve removing the dashboard, as I cannot see an easy way to get the wiring free from the steering colum. Is there an easy way to get the switch and its wiring out?
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Hi All, I have noticed a slight weep of oil from the cylinder head gasket of my TR5. It is on the left had side of the engine on the same side as the engine number pad. If I clean the area and run the engine statically the leak doesn't appear but after a 100 mile or so run there is oil present along the length of the joint. It is not possible to see where the oil initially emerges as it runs along the joint. I have found a number of posts about this for the TR5 and TR6, so it seems to be a common problem. There are a number of solutions offered but at this stage I don't want to remove the cylinder head. The engine was rebuilt about 22 years ago and 15,000 miles has been driven. I don't think that the head has been disturbed. My question is, do you think that retightening the cylinder head nuts is likely to have any benefit? I would do this in the correct tightening sequence, loosening each nut slightly first, then retightening to 70 ft lbs. The thing I don't want to do is to make the leak any worse! Regards, Denis
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A thread elsewhere on Forum reminded me of how often folks use the wrong size spanner . . . . . and regret it. Herewith a link which I have mentioned in years gone by, updated and expanded since last I mentioned it . . . . . . A most useful table of relative sizes of jaws, vast quantities of useful advice re spanner handling, and more follow-up links for even more specialist data than you could ever need. http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/psc/spanner_jaw.html Cheers Alec
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Gentlemen, I have been offered a Lucas DR3A wiper motor for my 4A. However, it is not the 75568A, which is the model number of the motor according to the one presently on my car. Can anyone please tell me if a Lucas DR3A 75607B is a two speed model and if it would be a suitable straight fit replacement for my 4A? I haven't seen the item as it was offered me via the internet. Thanks Graham
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Another TR5 for sale by auction, lots of photos/receipts etc https://themarket.co.uk/en/listings/triumph/tr5/da60fe2b-6f96-443a-bbd2-bd45057a4b20?status=live I have no connection to this vehicle, just sharing the link for those interested Regards Ade
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It’s great to see that Revival Motorsport Fabrications are remanufacturing the Surrey Backlight Frames for TR’s. It looks like a quality product too - (Photos taken from their Instagram page. I have no connection to this company). Ade
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I am having problems with the door latch mechanism. when I press the button to open the door it pushes against the lever to open the door, however the lever does not come back far enough for the door lock mechanism to engage when the button is released and key turned to lock the mechanism. With the door latch removed the lever mechanism can move in and out freely, hense it does not return, should it be spring loaded?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4-RUN-ON-NORMAL-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-EASY-TO-FIT-AND-INSTALL-/272109108010?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MY:3160 "THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel. The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature. There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel. This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product. It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used. Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force. HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume. We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles. We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds. ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE. MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN MADE IN BRITAIN"
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Hi All I have a original spare wheel cover part no 812236, which I have removed the 4 metal frame sections for refurbishing, the metal is a little thin in places now. Is anyone interested in making copy's of these metal items while I have it apart. The cover consists of a sheet of 5mm hardboard and 4 pieces of thin bent steel with which the correct sheet metal bending apparatus could easily be replicated. The going rate from the dealers is £110. Any interest before I reassemble it? Cheers Sean Roger or any other FAB guy interested?
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Afternoon, I trust everyone is safe and well! Im at the point of repairing the rear inner body work and wanted to ask if anyone has some good phots of how the joints and panels should be between the inner wing, wheel arch and B posts? I can see that there is fibre glass and rust in mine that will need patching. Looking at the inner wings online they appear to be around £300+ many thanks.
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Seeking a small diameter hub boss. My TR2 steering column has a splined end that the steering wheel hub fits onto. Do later TR models like TR4, TR5 have the same splined end of the steering column? I need to buy an aftermarket hub boss that fits those splines, in order to fit a restored specialty steering wheel for my Doretti (using same TR2 column). But I don’t want to use the large diameter boss that is available from Moss to fit a Moto-Lita wheel to a sidescreen TR - because I have a smaller wheel center that is more like TR4. Wheel is pictured. So if I buy an aftermarket TR4 hub boss, might the splines fit my TR2 style Doretti column? Dan
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Buy it now at 100$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR250-GT6-GT6-Original-Steering-Wheel-15/172104242382?_trksid=p2055119.c100022.m2048&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122153519%26meid%3D98f11c16135b49e1821a0f85d7876f80%26pid%3D100022%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D322004550194
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Slowly doing bits and pieces on the rebuild of my 5 and went to fit the fan belt yesterday. I can't fit the belt between the bottom pulley and the steering rack. If I support the sump on a jack and block, loosen gearbox and engine mountings will I be able to shift the block back a couple of millimetres to get sufficient space. ...or am I missing something else. Many thanks as always, Tim
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In case anyone is looking for one, I spotted this ROM for sale on ebay. Price is currently very low so possibly a great bargain for someone. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triuph-Original-TR5-TR6-Repair-Operation-Manual/303462077421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 This is the version of the manual that I have and that I used throughout my restoration. No connection, just spotted it. Sean
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I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
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I have a TR5 with a Surrey top. Looks great but not very practical in my opinion. Would someone kindly advise me of what I will need to convert my car to a rag top. Is a soft top a direct replacement? Are the existing holes for the Surrey the same. Is the header rail the same? I think not but need confirmation. Where should I go for a frame and hood? From what I have read vinyl is the best material to use? Thanks in advance, Graeme.
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Any one out there tried these? They also do a rear wing repair section which I guess will do TR4-6. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/61-68-Triumph-TR4-TR4A-TR250-RH-Front-Fender-Wing-Repair-Panel-New-Free-Ship/123054546890?hash=item1ca69f5fca:g:Y70AAOxydyxSP2EY
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Gents, before I find the energy to post it in the Classifieds here is my restored aluminum surrey hardtop surplus to requirement. It's complete with seals; headlining; braces; SS trim; original fixing points/threads and knobs. Painted in Silverstone grey, it will nicely combine with any of the standard TR colors. I concur that £ 900 isn't cheap but rare enough in this condition and a direct fit. Please PM for details and more pictures. Cheers
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Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
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