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Hi, I'm rebuilding my TR6 engine (actually from a TR250) and have confused myself when it comes to timing. Cam, crank and pistons installed and the chain is on but what position should the cam lobes be at TDC? I've a spare so took pics (roughly) 180 degrees apart as below as to how it would look if installed. Thanks all.

I've acquired a set of redone MX5 seats from Paul and will shortly be removing my 1973 TR 6 original seats. Being they are the originals that came with the car, it only seems right & proper to save them for the time I do sell-on the car. Curious how to prep them, to keep them in as good-as shape? Taking a cleaner to them once removed is obvious, and I have a completely dry shed where I can put them up on wire racks, or hang from the rafters. Thinking it would be good to place them in a black bag, if I hang them with the opening "down" (floor side) so I can open and inspect them from time to time. Anyone have any tried & successful recommendations I should contemplate?

Hello No football today so thinking about my exhaust (bog std fitted) i did a little back in the day but looking to the future so manifold primaries secondaries length to the silencer etc so focusing on retirement project SC (haha) whats the best book to give formulae etc so i can play with a spreadsheet the race boys on here must have an idea unless everything is bought in The kids can buy the book for Xmas as they never know what to get cheers David

Hello All, I have a CR car undergoing restoration and it should have a black plastic front spoiler. This isn't with the car and have two questions- 1). Recomendation of any suppliers to get a replacement? 2). How are these attached? Do they use the same mounting points as the front bumper or are they secured with separate holes on the front wings/valance? I can't see any existing holes but maybe the car had replacement panels prior to my involvement. Thanks.

As I've been posting, I have had trouble with my car ever since a Garage fitted an engine and reconditioned PI kit. Thanks to the tremendous advice I have received on here, I got to the point where my car would idle at 950 RPM cold and around 1050 RPM hot, after blipping the throttle to get it to drop a bit! I then borrowed an inlet manifold setting tool, on trying to fit this, it was apparent that the three manifolds are not aligned at all well, I sent photographic evidence to the garage and my car is now back with them and they will refit the system once again. Unfortunately, on stopping the car at their premises, the cooling system pressurised, it did the same yesterday, I now suspect the HG is on its way out, more expense. On the plus side, I have the head from my original engine and can use that in exchange, it also means I can junk the external oil feed I currently have to use to get round a blocked oilway. Now I just have to find a stage 2 head that's available in a reasonable timeframe. Thanks to all of you who have given me advice with my problems thus far. Ian

Hello all, I'm looking for some advice regarding alternator wiring. The attached photo shows the two alternators I have, the one on the left is an aftermarket item and the other is my original (remanufactured) 17ACR Lucas item. I've been running with the aftermarket alternator since putting the car back on the road, but I'd now like to fit the Lucas one for a little originality. However my Autosparks supplied wiring loom suits the aftermarket alternator, being that the plug connector has 2 wires connected to the large spades 1 x brown & 1 x brown/yellow and another brown to the spade terminal roughly circled in blue. The Lucas alternator only has the 3 spade plug connectors, ie; the blue circled connector isn't present. So my question is, can I fit the brown wire from the blue circle into the 3 spade plug and have everything work has it should? Or, should it be left disconnected? I have wiring diagrams for various years for TR5/6 1968-75 but can's make sense of them.

Hi all As most will know she's being on the road now a while and today hit 500 miles after 120 mile run at varying speeds up to 80-85mph . No immediate major issues just small matters that need attention over the next 12 months. So what diid it feel like? She started well and with previous advice fast idles at bang on 1500rpm. Overall brilliant with smooth acceleration and a great sound track and the OD with Rogers Logic Box makes cruising a pleasure. Oil pressure cold nearly off the scale, hot idle 20 at 3500 - 4500 rpm 45 - 60. Previous Dizzy oil leak remains fixed and the heater works well! So what to do next and niggles? This is what I'm thinking chip in if you think of anything I've missed. 1) Change engine oil/filter (have 5L Millers Classic) 2) Retorque head nuts and set tappets. 3) Check GB oil level - it leaks, not a lot just a few drips when stood is this normal for these cars? 4) The diff was the only component I haven't completely stripped and has a bit of whine in first gear but then nothing obtrusive. Might just run with it for a while for now but would appreciate a recommendation as to where to have it overhaul as I haven't the tooling. 5) She drives straight but feel a four wheel alignment and tracking over my DIY efforts will provide further improvement. Anyone know of a good place local to Wakefield? 6) Headlight alignment. One last thing Ferodo front pads fitted stop the car well compared to the usual cheap offerings but boy do they squeal around town at low speed. Is there a cure?? Thanks Andy

Gents Good evening The cold months are with us and the time for some routine maintenance (otherwise known as quality time) has arrived My question is this; Given that my car has modern bottom end shells, modern, little end bearings, 2002 camshaft, pistons and rings & replacement oil pump amongst other things (in fact, rebuilds and replacement parts mean that the head and block are probably the only original or pre 1998 components left of the 1975 engine that rolled out of the factory), which engine oil should I use? Do I stick with the specialist Castrol / Penrite / Miller classic oils? Given that the engine parts are all of modern manufacture, can I utilise a modern multigrade mineral or synthetic oil? Thanks in advance John

Hi all, I’m hoping someone can help me work out the strange issue I have with the J Type overdrive on my CR series TR6. it only seems to work the first time I operate the switch, no matter how long the journey! It has for a long time been a little intermittent, usually to do with the oil level, but works again when topped up. when I was doing some work on the car recently, I made sure it was up to the fill level (plug on the side of gearbox), possibly a few ml extra. it seems to be after that that it first started this issue. electrically seems ok, I’m getting over 13v at the solenoid.… .. but it has me puzzled! thanks in advance! Richard

Hi. I’ve just bought an original Lenham hardtop. Thanks very much @SeanF. What I ideally need is if anyone has any photos of the correct seals, window rubbers etc. I’ve searched the web tirelessly to no avail. Also does any one have the front fixing black domed bolts Part Number: 622888 and the distance tubes Part Number: 613508 for sale, I know I can buy them from various suppliers but thought I would ask here first. I can make all the other fixing brackets etc. Incidentally I always thought that the vinyl top was glued on but it appears to be embossed into the fibreglass as I have a small hole to repair on the edge of the vinyl which I was going peel back the vinyl, repair and stick back down but now I shall engrave the repair to match the vinyl. That leads me on to paint finish on the vinyl bit. Would gloss black be best or satin black to mimic the look of vinyl. Thanks very much for your time and I look forward to your replies.

Hello, I'm after +0.020 and +0.030 new pistons sets for TR6 (or 2500 saloons, they are the same), what have you, or which supplier would you suggest ?

Hello guys, I'm playing with a Tr6 gearbox, to convert it to overdrive, using a saloon donor box, as many of you have done previously. My problem is : the mainshaft diameter, where it get in the input shaft needle roller bearing is smaller than the "non overdrive" mainshaft (who's .875" apparently). Is there a sort of sleeve to fit in between ? I was thinking of 145008X, but the one I get from a supplier is far to big Thanks in advance for your help,

Greetings folks. I am new to the forum but have owned several TR6's over the years. My current one is a CR which is running on twin SU HS6 carbs. I have most of the parts to convert it back to PI BUT am stuck and stumped with the Metering Unit. I have two which came with the car. One looks clean and reconditioned, the other looks older but has TR6 1969 scratched onto it. They are slightly different. One has screw in return pipe, the other has push fit. Is there any method of knowing if either is actually for a CR? Thanks in advance

I am afraid that this is yet another query about tyre size of a UK car! I recently bought a TR6 which has 205 x 60 R15 tyres, which make the steering quite heavy particularly at low speeds and for parking. The car also has very little ground clearance at the back, which I initially thought was tyre related, but I now think is either lowered or just sagged springs. However, this got me thinking about changing the tyres, so I looked at the various posts which are comparing various tyre sizes against what was originally fitted. Most say something like " when the cars were new tyres were just specified as a wheel diameter, and a width, without the apect ratio which is included now. The original tyres were specified as 165 R15, and had an aspect ratio of 80". Looking on various websites, I came across a tyre comparator spreadsheet on an American site which I downloaded, and played with the various tyre sizes discussed in the various posts. Doing this, you can see how the new tyres compared with the diameter and the circumference of the basis tyre. I also looked at the Repair Operation Manual (the thick brown book), and there is some data in there about the original tyre size, and the RPM / 10 MPH at various gear ratios and MPH / 1000 RPM at a couple of gear ratios. I put this data into the spreadsheet, with a tyre size of 165 x 80 x R15 as has been advised in the various posts, and I found that it did not give the correct results match the quoted RPM / 10 MPH in the Repair Operation Manual. Thus, I played around with the tyre ratio, and found that I could only get a match on RPM / 10 MPH if the 165 R15 tyre had an aspect ratio of 74%. Consequently, it seems to me that the original tyre size on UK cars was 165 R15 x74, not x80 as has been quoted on many posts. The analysis assumes that the type is circular, so does not take into account that the tyre obviously has a flat spot where the tyre is in contact with the ground, so would change the effective diameter of the tyre (depending on tyre pressure), which would affect the calculations, but also be virtually impossible to calculate. Does anyone know the bsasi of the MHP /1000 RPM and RPM / 10 MPH data in the brown book? This obviously changes the "correct" tyre to fit to match the original equipment. From my analysis, the closest matches that I could find were 175 x 70 / 185 x 65 / 195 x 65 / 205 x 60 (all R15) I have a spreadsheet but the site will not let me attach it, so I have attached a PDF of it as it is the best that I can do. I am happy to send it or attach it if someone can tell me how. I would welcome the comments from those who have more knowledge and experieice of this and can show me the error of my analysis! Clearly, we are talking small differences, so it is an academic exercise to a certain extent, and it probably does not make much difference in many cases, and different people may prefer to have different tyres to give higher or lower cars, better acceleration, etc, etc. However, I would be interested to hear other people's views on my analysis. TR6-Calculator-NPR.pdf TR6-Calculator-NPR.pdf

Does anyone know if a cylinder head from a GT6 can be fitted to the TR6 block, and what exactly are the differences. I know that distance between inlet ports on TR6 heads USA Vs UK are different and assume that this anomaly may follow with GT6 heads. All responses welcome. Thank you. TonyC

Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revington who also list a 7/8” bore alternative at twice the price. Now I would like replacement to be similar to existing, but to muddy the water a little more the bore of the existing cylinder is actually 1” and not 7/8” as shown on the casting. Anyone come across anything similar, and knowing that there is a lot of scepticism around regarding spare part quality are there any good recommendations for a replacement source? Would be also good to know what the actual size of the standard 1” bore slave is - 1 1/8” maybe? I attach a couple of pics for reference. As usual many thanks in anticipation for all gems of wisdom from what is the best knowledge database on the planet. thanks, TonyC

Hi Next job on my long list is replacing the standard non inertia reel belts with a Securon Front Seat Belt Kit, so before I start drilling holes in the inner wheel arch, an hints or tips would be appreciated, Pics of other installs would be fantastic, my focus being on the installation and location of the inertia reel mechanism. Thanks Rich

After too many years of my 6 being off the road, I'm starting on the 'reassembly is the reverse of disassembly' part of the manual. At the moment I'm making sure the outer panels fit well before shipping to my local painter. I don't want to be fiddling too much after the panels are painted for fear of damage. Something that has me scratching my head a bit, is the fitment of the rear wing to the B post. It doesn't look right but I don't know how it should look. For background, the car was restored by a previous owner in the early 80's. The main tub is original and in good condition but I suspect the front and rear wings are Heritage panels (or at least not Stanpart). The wing fits very well from the outside, everything lines up, including the inner flange to the back of the B post. Great. However, from the striker plate side of the B Post there is a big gap on the inside of the wing. There is a flange on the B Post that comes some way into the void but it doesn't touch the wing. It looks like it might be designed for a rubber filler strip but I can't find one in the parts diagrams. The previous owner had packed this area with frame sealant and maybe this is the way it should be done? It just doesn't look right but what have others done? Any thoughts (or pictures) gratefully received.

Hi, I replaced my vertical link when I uprated my hubs last year...only done about 1000km since. Last week the RHS link gave way at the ball joint, resulting in some unnerving thunks from the rear end. I limped home without doing any serious damage, and have replaced the link with another one I bought at the same time (from one of the usual suspects, part no. R141464). Can I expect this one to last any longer? Can anyone recommend an alternative, better quality part? Cheers, John

Evening all I appreciate this topic comes up quite a bit and hopefully its just reassurance that's required as I've no previous experience to draw on as to how things should be in practice. To complete the clutch system this afternoon I fitted a new non adjustable push rod (Part number 138572) connected to the middle hole in the arm. Now the reassurance bit; I can move the push rod and arm towards the gearbox (and back) until the release bearing contacts the fingers of the clutch cover which seems reasonable but the push rod seems rather extended. Once the clutch fluid is in place I understand you need between 15-17mm of further extension and I'm concerned this may see the push rod pop too far out or lack the length to operate the clutch effectively. Pictures below show it retracted and extended up to it contacting the fingers. Is this a normal scenario without fluid and am I overthinking the issue?! Thanks Andy

TR6PI – after a month of no usage, and a lot of fiddling prior to that, I was going to start up my TR6 yesterday. As a routine I checked the oil level. Two things were not ideal – (1) the oil level was higher than 1 month back (At least a 1cm over max level) without any oil being added and (2) it smelled strongly of petrol. So my guess is the oil seals in the PI/distributor pedestal is leaking. There is no visible leak from the pedestal itself, so the O-ring between the pedestal and MU should be ok. Could the fuel-in-oil sump problem be a result of other leaks? Dripping injector pipes shouldn’t be the cause of this, right? I was thinking just to replace the oil and the pedestal seals. Would that make sense?

Hi all Come to fitting a set of new Knobs to the Heater Fan, Heater Control Valve and the Heater Vent to finish the dash and guess what? Yep they pull straight off as they are so loose a fit to the shafts the retaining pins hardly engage. Tried two separate supplies now same issue and probably from the same manufacturer in China you would think it would be just as easy to make them the right size in the first place! Anyone suggest who supplies ones that fit? A fix other than resign glue? Or has anyone got some decent OEM ones they would like to part with? Thanks Andy

Hi all Nearly at the stage of finishing the wiring loom and have temporally installed the steering column without the intermediate shaft to the rack to test the light circuit etc. So far so good but it occurred to me that the whole assembly can be positioned as far forward or back as you want relative to the bulkhead. I can't find a reference measurement in the Brown Book so would appreciate if someone would mind measuring how far it should protrude through the bulkhead? Thanks Andy

Good evening wise fórum. Formaly in my 1971 tr6, I could ear petrol coming back from MU INTO the tank , on idle. For No apparent reason it Started to leak along the return pipe to the tank where ruber replaces cooper, even when circlips were set... It looks that I have a strong pressurized fuel return. Try to blow all the way and there is no resistence Petrol cap os original, makes no diference when open Where to look ? Thankyou

Hello All, Can anyone tell me if the section of tubing between both wiper wheel boxes should be completely dead on straight? Mine has a slight kink at one end and I'm having a real pig of a time fitting the rack without any rubbing & grinding. As usual I've searched the archive already with no definite answer. Thanks in advance..... Richard.