Girling rear wheel cylinder dust cover fitting

[Z320]

Yeah I know,

it is not possible to fit the spring plate after (first) the leaver, so I never told this.

My main concerns are:

- what way around to put the spring plate and the loching washer

- and NEVER punch the distance washer in or out!!

Edited June 7, 2020 by Z320

[michaeldavis39]

I said punch locking washer not distance washer--I'd like to see how you could possibly get the locking washer in any other way! It was a gentle tap tap not a good pounding like there's no tomorrow! 

 

Michael 

Edited June 7, 2020 by michaeldavis39

[Z320]

I explained this at my post

Edited June 7, 2020 by Z320

[michaeldavis39]

I think people will understand what I have written when they come to do this job. 

Michael

[Z320]

Hi Michael,

after reading your and my post serveral times I think we both describe the same.

Yes, you describe and I understand: you fit the locking washer with a little punch in its final position.

This may be needed and I have absolutely made no critic about doing that.

But one of my 2 main concerns, independent from your advice, is about the distance washer,

the little tiny u-piece with the ends bended up: never punch THIS in or out like Buckeye describes it.

This caused my much pain the first time I did that (and then never again)

You and me, we are shure still friends?

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited June 8, 2020 by Z320

[michaeldavis39]

No problem Marco, I wouldn't tap the tiny piece with ends bent up no - I did the other side today the same way no problems. 

 

Michael

[Mike JOnes]

I did this today and found this article very helpful. In fact I would have struggled without it I think.

Thanks all

[barkerwilliams]

...and filing the crude casting ridges back flush with the body so the cylinder slides in the backplate.

- other brands may differ!!!

Alan

[Nobbysr]

On 2/13/2020 at 10:17 PM, Z320 said:

You are welcome, last one is how to open this §$%&/?! mechanism,

because this can make a strong man desperated

Stick two small screw drivers between and with this you have two "ramps" to slide the locking plate over the tooth

Take a pliers and pull the lock plate out

 

Here a small drill and a hook would be helpful

 

I thinks they may be heat treated. so drilling might not be an option ill try and see if i get a carbide through one or check one with my hardness files 

[Bear83]

Merci à Marco pour ce tuto qui m'a bien aidé pour le sens de montage des différentes pièces .
Çà à l'air facile sur un moyeu posé sur l'établi ................ c'est une autre paire de manches quand on le fait sur l'auto !
Bonne route

Edited June 24, 2021 by Bear83

[Z320]

je suis content de t'avoir aidé

Ciao, Marco

[Arec Johnson]

On 2/19/2020 at 6:48 AM, Mick Forey said:

Wayne has kindly uploaded the series of photos and explanations onto the website under Resources / Technical Manuals https://www.tr-register.co.uk/past-issue/2020/02/0116/Girling-rear-wheel-brake-cylinder-dust-cover-fitting-guide so that all members can easily find this excellent work by Marco. It would also make an excellent article for TR Action.

Mick

Thanks for sharing the link it is really informative. 

[Johannes]

Hi all, 

can it be that the lever Springs out of the cylinder when I will press the brake. The 2 Small nippels Right and left of the lever doesnt hold.

Can it be that the Spring Plates and the rubber seal are not correct?

[stuart]

20 minutes ago, Johannes said:

Hi all, 

can it be that the lever Springs out of the cylinder when I will press the brake. The 2 Small nippels Right and left of the lever doesnt hold.

Can it be that the Spring Plates and the rubber seal are not correct?

If you read from the start of this thread it will tell you the correct way to fit them so they hold together.

Stuart.

[Johannes]

3 minutes ago, stuart said:

If you read from the start of this thread it will tell you the correct way to fit them so they hold together.

Stuart.

Thxs Stuart, I will take a Look 

[dblenk]

edited

Edited January 15, 2024 by dblenk

[dblenk]

edited

 

 

 

 

Edited January 15, 2024 by dblenk
wrong info

[jimt]

Mine haven’t been properly fitted and don’t do what they’re supposed too-

Is it possible ? Or has anyone tried to renew/fit these while the backplate etc is on the car without having to remove everything just to renew the rubbers. Obviously the brake pipe & handbrake lever connection will have to be released but to have to remove everything else - hubs, brakes, backplate etc -  just to replace the rubbers seems such a lot. Surely the factory wouldn’t have designed it that way or expected all that to be removed for a ‘simple’ rubber replacement? 

Edited June 17, 2024 by jimt

[stuart]

3 hours ago, jimt said:

Mine haven’t been properly fitted and don’t do what they’re supposed too-

Is it possible ? Or has anyone tried to renew/fit these while the backplate etc is on the car without having to remove everything just to renew the rubbers. Obviously the brake pipe & handbrake lever connection will have to be released but to have to remove everything else - hubs, brakes, backplate etc -  just to replace the rubbers seems such a lot. Surely the factory wouldn’t have designed it that way or expected all that to be removed for a ‘simple’ rubber replacement? 

You would only need to remove the handbrake cable/brake pipe/drum and the linings to free off the cylinder, no need to remove the backplate.(Obviously if you have wires then you would need to remove the spline extension)

Stuart.