1965 TR4A progress and restoration

[stuart]

5 minutes ago, Jase said:

I'm guessing a TR6 would have had inertia seatbelts? How was this problem resolved?

The top of the rear arch has a slight dish down where the belt mount sits

Stuart.

 

[Jase]

Thanks Stuart, that's a nice touch. I'm guessing the TR5 didn't have inertia belts?

[Geko]

I had a look at the WSM TR4 and indeed it shows the lifting points on the side of the wheel arches but that's 1962. Is that to say that there was no holes for seat belts at the time and that these were added later on TR4A body specifically for the seats belts? My 4A never had 3 points seat belts until my ownership but the holes were there but covered by the trim, so my assumption was that these were the actual new lifting points.

[stuart]

18 minutes ago, Geko said:

I had a look at the WSM TR4 and indeed it shows the lifting points on the side of the wheel arches but that's 1962. Is that to say that there was no holes for seat belts at the time and that these were added later on TR4A body specifically for the seats belts? My 4A never had 3 points seat belts until my ownership but the holes were there but covered by the trim, so my assumption was that these were the actual new lifting points.

Those two holes in the arch are where the seat belt mounts were on TR4 models

Stuart.

[Jase]

Going to refurb my petrol pump shortly. I do have new 'copper' petrol pipe to fit but will the olives still be okay if I unscrew from the pump housing?

Thanks

[Lebro]

Should be, unless you are very unlucky.

Bob.

[ctc77965o]

2 hours ago, Jase said:

Going to refurb my petrol pump shortly. I do have new 'copper' petrol pipe to fit but will the olives still be okay if I unscrew from the pump housing?

Thanks

Anneal them, they'll be fine.

[stuart]

If in doubt a little wipe of this on the olive will seal it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Brake-Pipe-Air-sealant/dp/B07H8MRP6T

Stuart.

[Bfg]

 

3 minutes ago, stuart said:

If in doubt a little wipe of this on the olive will seal it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Brake-Pipe-Air-sealant/dp/B07H8MRP6T

Stuart.

I've not seen liquid ptfe tape before..  Thanks for the heads up.

[Jase]

Horns, stopped working?? The PO fitted an aftermarket switch just below the steering column, seems to have two wires feeding to it, you can hear the click of the 'current' when you switch it on but no horns. I may well have damaged it whilst trying to reset the tacho. First port of call is to replace the switch, just wanted to check that I'm not missing a wire. Haven't had a chance to look at the wiring diagram yet but is there a fuse box for this  I'm thinking Spitfire here so forgive my ignorance, still getting to know this car.

[john.r.davies]

Electricty doesn't "click", at 12V anyway! It may at 50,000V

If there is a click then the switch is operating a relay, which originally was on the bulkhead inside the engine bay.   And if that clicks, but no horns then the relay isn't making contact or another fault is present.     Out with the multimeter, and follow the volts!

JOhn

Edited June 6, 2021 by john.r.davies

[Jase]

32 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

Electricty doesn't "click", at 12V anyway! It may at 50,000V

If there is a click then the switch is operating a relay, which originally was on the bulkhead inside the engine bay.   And if that clicks, but no horns then the relay isn't making contact or another fault is present.     Out with the multimeter, and follow the volts!

JOhn

Thanks John, must be the relay as I can definitely hear something, time to dust off the multimeter.

[stuart]

22 hours ago, Jase said:

Thanks John, must be the relay as I can definitely hear something, time to dust off the multimeter.

On 4a the relay should be down by the right hand horn and there is a fuse next to it. Check that.

Stuart.

[Jase]

Thanks Stuart, is that the driver's side?

 

Jason

[stuart]

9 minutes ago, Jase said:

Thanks Stuart, is that the driver's side?

 

Jason

Err yes as your not left hand drive sorry its because I often have left and right hand drive cars in.

Stuart.

[Jase]

Thanks, I guess I'm so used to nearside or offside.

 

Thanks

[Jase]

Horn woes, so I’m guessing this is the relay?

 

[Jase]

The horn was wired to a toggle switch, thought I would dismantle and check. Am I right in thinking if I tap these two wires together I should get a horn? When I do nothing, ignition is switched on.

 

[RobH]

26 minutes ago, Jase said:

Am I right in thinking if I tap these two wires together I should get a horn?

Who knows if someone has 'been at' the wiring. As standard there is no green wire in the horn circuit.  Best to see how it compares with this, and start from there.....

 

[Jase]

Thanks Rob, I can see it goes to a purple bullet connector and it has been earthed to the back of one of the instruments, it was working, I’ve checked connections. I can’t find the inline fuse as per the haynes manual either. Thanks

[stuart]

15 hours ago, Jase said:

Thanks Rob, I can see it goes to a purple bullet connector and it has been earthed to the back of one of the instruments, it was working, I’ve checked connections. I can’t find the inline fuse as per the haynes manual either. Thanks

Just been through this with customers car as I had all the column out to rebush. You should have purple from the slip ring under the wheel down the cable tray and then to purple under the dash out of the loom, under the horn push you should have the pencil (part number 53 here Horn pencil ). You need to make sure that the inner column earth works all the way up so it needs an earth off the rack to chassis, then earth jumper wires through each of the rubber donuts (or not if you have TR6 type metal UJ`s) the horn relay is a 3 wire version down by the right hand horn and the fuse for it is right by it looped out of the loom. So when you press the horn push it earths the relay out. The purple at the relay is permanent live.

Stuart.

Edited June 25, 2021 by stuart

[RobH]

Is that not the fuseholder under the wiring Jase?

 

[Jase]

Thanks both, Stuart, unfortunately the PO has the horn wired to a separate toggle switch below the dashboard. It just stopped working after I reset the odometer, thought I had knocked a wire off, don't think so though. I missed that inline fuse  I was looking closer to the fuse box, will change just incase. It could all do with a clean up so next job Thanks

[stuart]

50 minutes ago, Jase said:

Thanks both, Stuart, unfortunately the PO has the horn wired to a separate toggle switch below the dashboard. It just stopped working after I reset the odometer, thought I had knocked a wire off, don't think so though. I missed that inline fuse  I was looking closer to the fuse box, will change just incase. It could all do with a clean up so next job Thanks

Try using a meter to see if your column has an earth through it as thats a good start, take the horn push out and see if the pencil is OK then you could re-instate the horn where it should be though the usual reason for them being on a switch like yours is the earth jumpers up the column are broken.

Stuart.

[Jase]

51 minutes ago, stuart said:

Try using a meter to see if your column has an earth through it as thats a good start, take the horn push out and see if the pencil is OK then you could re-instate the horn where it should be though the usual reason for them being on a switch like yours is the earth jumpers up the column are broken.

Stuart.

Unfortunately the steering wheel doesn't accommodate a horn hence the separate toggle switch, I'll check for current later, thanks