TR5 rebuild started

[dblenk]

Well after 28 years off the road, two tr6 builds, covid, oil price and anything else life has thrown my way its started

going great then bang 1969 car bites back those screws into the wings two are rock solid even using my torque driver

i have put some liquid spanner and WD40 for overnight soak

any useful hints

David

how do you get the photo to rotate

Edited August 4, 2021 by dblenk

[harrytr5]

Very nice David,

Looking forward to seeing rebuild it.

here you go right way up

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

[dblenk]

6 minutes ago, harrytr5 said:

Very nice David,

Looking forward to seeing rebuild it.

here you go right way up

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

thanks

[Waldi]

Hi Dave,

I’m jealous:)

WD-40 may not be the best available, but hopefully does the job. 

If accessible, drill out the screw, first use a center punch and start with a small sharp (new) drill, like 3 mm. Then a next drill can be 1 mm bigger, to avoid jamming/seizing (hope that’s the right word).

Waldi

 

[dblenk]

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Dave,

I’m jealous:)

WD-40 may not be the best available, but hopefully does the job. 

If accessible, drill out the screw, first use a center punch and start with a small sharp (new) drill, like 3 mm. Then a next drill can be 1 mm bigger, to avoid jamming/seizing (hope that’s the right word).

Waldi

 

Hi

yes will drill out if the WD40 doesnt work, i was really interested in whats the best stuff for releasing bolts etc i guess i am going to have a few my car is an original 1969 and the liquid spanner etc i have if from the eighties so maybe better things on the market these days

cheers 

david

[Rob Salisbury]

Hi, From the look of things you are not going to be worried by a bit of burnt paint, so cook the screws with a fine nosed flame, just about any stuck nut or screw will yield if heated to cherry red. 

Cheers Rob 

[glasgow4a]

As discussed earlier make your own penetrating oil, 50% Acetone 50% ATF. works well cheers Ian.

[dblenk]

Cheers everyone bolts are out great stuff

interesting making your own penetrating oil !!!!

David

[Motorsport Mickey]

2 hours ago, dblenk said:

Hi

yes will drill out if the WD40 doesnt work, i was really interested in whats the best stuff for releasing bolts etc i guess i am going to have a few my car is an original 1969 and the liquid spanner etc i have if from the eighties so maybe better things on the market these days

cheers 

david

Not WD 40, it doesn't have enough lubrication properties. If you can get it to the screws try Aero Kroil which "" Loosens the toughest metal parts, or your money back" I've never asked for my money back yet,  it has a real searching property and will leach itself between rusted components, otherwise diesel works well. Tip try tightening the screw first to break the bond even if it only flexes it, then try the Aero Kroil oil or diesel and give an hour or so to work.

Mick Richards 

[stuart]

1 minute ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Not WD 40, it doesn't have enough lubrication properties. If you can get it to the screws try Aero Kroil which "" Loosens the toughest metal parts, or your money back" I've never asked for my money back yet,  it has a real searching property and will leach itself between rusted components, otherwise diesel works well. Tip try tightening the screw first to break the bond even if it only flexes it, then try the Aero Kroil oil or diesel and give an hour or so to work.

Mick Richards 

Not cheap but as Mick says its good stuff Aerokroil

Stuart.

[dblenk]

ok i did try and tighten it one of the old tricks

thats what i am after as WD40 was stuff i used way back thought there would be something better

ebay £26

spot on

cheers

david

[Chris Mountford]

Hi Dave,

Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild.

I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s.

It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years.

I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild.

I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy !

Chris

   

[John L]

See this for release agents   

 

[Kenrow]

Here in the states we use PB Blaster, works great!

[dblenk]

15 hours ago, Chris Mountford said:

Hi Dave,

Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild.

I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s.

It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years.

I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild.

I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy !

Chris

   

Cheers Chris yes we had TR5's before they were rare !!!!! and expensive you couldnt buy a 6 in the mid eighties they got snapped up that quick, hope to post regular photos obviously depending on money and time hoping to be complete for the 40th anniversary of ownership 2024

Are you going to the IWE i will keep an eye out for you

Dave

[stuart]

16 hours ago, Chris Mountford said:

Hi Dave,

Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild.

I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s.

It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years.

I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild.

I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy !

Chris

   

Well you do now have a few of them

Stuart.

[roy53]

So Chris which one are you starting ?  

[Chris Mountford]

Hi both,

Stuart - you are quite right, over the years I have collected more than my fair share ! SWMBO reckons more work than I can complete in my lifetime.

Roy, - I have a 3A and a 4 under rebuild at the moment, so no time to start anything new just yet. I must get my original 5 rebuilt though. It was a scrapper even at 11 years old when I bought it, but i managed to do a BOC rebuild as a novice in the 80's and it gave me another 15 years before the chassis disintegrated.

Sorry for the hijack Dave, I am really looking forward to reading about your progress and am rooting for you all the way.

Chris  

[dblenk]

1 hour ago, Chris Mountford said:

Hi both,

Stuart - you are quite right, over the years I have collected more than my fair share ! SWMBO reckons more work than I can complete in my lifetime.

Roy, - I have a 3A and a 4 under rebuild at the moment, so no time to start anything new just yet. I must get my original 5 rebuilt though. It was a scrapper even at 11 years old when I bought it, but i managed to do a BOC rebuild as a novice in the 80's and it gave me another 15 years before the chassis disintegrated.

Sorry for the hijack Dave, I am really looking forward to reading about your progress and am rooting for you all the way.

Chris  

No Problem Chris

will you be around at the IWE think i have a photo somewhere of our cars at the 86 lakes tour maybe have a pint or coffee

message me for my phone number

cheers

David

[astontr6]

On 8/4/2021 at 9:45 PM, harrytr5 said:

Very nice David,

Looking forward to seeing rebuild it.

here you go right way up

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

Use PlusGas! It is far better than WD40 as it dissolves red rust. Used it for years!

Bruce.

[dblenk]

HI All

fighting with the 5 with the 50 year old bolts, but successful all panels off except rear wings, looking ok but now late at night so will try again tomorrow

However those two bolts right at the back look a pain any little fixes people have come across over the years to make removal easy ????

cheers

David

PS put penetration oil on

Edited August 23, 2021 by dblenk

[stuart]

Small spanner is the way to go Dave. if you havent got one then buy a cheapy and cut it down.

Stuart.

[dblenk]

21 minutes ago, stuart said:

Small spanner is the way to go Dave. if you havent got one then buy a cheapy and cut it down.

Stuart.

Thought you would say that right in the corner **** falling on me and slow progress as the ratchet doesnt fit, well i will have the nice part of building it up one day with new clean parts hahaha

thanks Dave

[Kenrow]

FYI:

"In a published article in Machinist Workshop Magazine, they tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts and bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a saltwater solution.

The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants, and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

The breakout torque required for:

Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.

WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.

PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.

Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.

Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs.

50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.

As you can see by the results of their test, the homebrew concoction of automatic transmission fluid and acetone worked best. But also keep in mind that acetone is very flammable and must be dispensed from a sealed metal container, similar to the old oil squirt cans. From my own experience, this solution works very well and seems to work a little better if you use synthetic ATF. Kroil is less volatile than the homebrew and often a first choice. 

[dblenk]

16 hours ago, Kenrow said:

FYI:

"In a published article in Machinist Workshop Magazine, they tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts and bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a saltwater solution.

The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants, and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

The breakout torque required for:

Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.

WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.

PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.

Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.

Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs.

50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.

As you can see by the results of their test, the homebrew concoction of automatic transmission fluid and acetone worked best. But also keep in mind that acetone is very flammable and must be dispensed from a sealed metal container, similar to the old oil squirt cans. From my own experience, this solution works very well and seems to work a little better if you use synthetic ATF. Kroil is less volatile than the homebrew and often a first choice. 

Interesting info that

would have thought in California they would jump out the threads (no rust) my brother used in live in Glendale (now Idaho)

the 5 has surprised with the amount that has come loose with the odd stubborn ones however thats why we have grinders and long wrenches

just the last few on the rear wings and the rest is accessible

cheers

Edited August 25, 2021 by dblenk