Stuck Clutch.

[RobH]

 

8 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

Does the bush fit in the crankshaft then, rather than in the flywheel ?

It certainly does on my '3A  - the hole in the flywheel is smaller than the diameter of the bush so you would have to do a LOT of bashing to get it through. 

Edited August 20 by RobH

[Z320]

The bush on my TR4 A is with a sliding fit in the crankshaft, the flywheel is slightly smaller drilled and does nit allow to pull it out

[Lebro]

4 hours ago, RobH said:

You have to take the flywheel off to fit that bush, so you probably still have the old one in there. 

No you don't !

Bob

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

37 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

I thought that the bush was just bashed in through the front of the flywheel.

Does the bush fit in the crankshaft then, rather than in the flywheel ?

Yes.  
on the 4 cyl wet liner TR engine….

The bush fits in the recess in the back of the crank and is retained there by the flywheel.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

39 minutes ago, Z320 said:

The bush on my TR4 A is with a sliding fit in the crankshaft, the flywheel is slightly smaller drilled and does nit allow to pull it out

+1

[Lebro]

I bow to your superior knowledge.

I blame my memory !

Bob

[Charlie D]

1 hour ago, Lebro said:

I bow to your superior knowledge.

I blame my memory !

Odd that, because 12 years ago (2014) you said:

Why ? It's accessible from the rear once the gearbox is off.

If you are really lucky it will just pull out with the right size screwdriver jammed in

I f not so lucky a large easy out may do it

Another way to try (& this is quite clever):

fill the hole with grease, find a bar which is a good fit in the bush, insert it into the bush up to the grease, then hit bar with hammer.

Th hydraulic pressure should force the bush out of the hole.

 

I would have thought that the idea of using grease and a bar to push in the hole would have come from actually doing it yourself.

Charlie.

[Z320]

That works on many cars, but not on TR 4 cylinders

Edited August 20 by Z320

[Lebro]

My memory was that it was accessable through the flywheel, & I obviously believed that in 2014, which is a year after the car being back on the road. 

So either my flywheel is different or I was wrong  (when I'm wrong, I say I'm wrong)

Bob

[Z320]

Original

Longer one with reduced diameter to reach through the flywheel 

[Charlie D]

My memory must be tricking me as well.

Sorry for causing the thread drift.

[My Dads Car]

6 hours ago, Charlie D said:

Sorry for causing the thread drift.

On the contrary, this thread drift yielded two photos that I needed to see, thanks!

Is the longer one with reduced diameter a large improvement over the original? If so, is it commercially available?

-Jamie

[Z320]

Hi Jamie,

I had to make it to fit a Mazda MX5 gearbox on my 4A.

Ciao, Marco

[My Dads Car]

I pulled the gearbox. Here's a link to a short demo of the mechanism in action:

As background: the fork was welded to the cross-shaft about 35 years ago with about 48K miles driven since then. Since there is very little play in the cross-shaft, the person who rebuilt the gearbox was hesitant to disturb the setup.... Upon close inspection I saw these cracks:

I'm not sure when these cracks happened but it is, obviously, a huge issue, and the likely source of my problem.

Here's a photo of the clutch installed on the engine:

Looks like I installed it properly, and the old bushing is still in place.

Regarding the bushing: I can move it easily in the housing and my clutch alignment tool slips right in. Is this the proper fit? I have a new bushing and the same alignment tool is rather difficult to fit into while outside the engine.

Thanks in advance for all advice!

-Jamie

Please wait while image is uploading...

 

[My Dads Car]

Any chance I can salvage the cross-shaft by using a cold chisel where the fork is cracked? If the fork is removed "cleanly" would it be possible to grind down the remnants and then fill with metal? Just grasping at straws...

Thanks- Jamie

[RobH]

Hammering on the shaft isn't going to do the end bearings or the bell-housing much good Jamie.   The shaft is already pretty much un re-usable because of the weld, so replacement is really inevitable as you probably can't even remove the shaft as it is nor fit a new  fork on it .   Trying to salvage it is more trouble than it's worth I think.  

I would cut through the shaft with an angle grinder so the bits can be removed, than fit all new. 

[Ralph Whitaker]

18 hours ago, My Dads Car said:

I pulled the gearbox. Here's a link to a short demo of the mechanism in action:

As background: the fork was welded to the cross-shaft about 35 years ago with about 48K miles driven since then. Since there is very little play in the cross-shaft, the person who rebuilt the gearbox was hesitant to disturb the setup.... Upon close inspection I saw these cracks:

I'm not sure when these cracks happened but it is, obviously, a huge issue, and the likely source of my problem.

Here's a photo of the clutch installed on the engine:

Looks like I installed it properly, and the old bushing is still in place.

Regarding the bushing: I can move it easily in the housing and my clutch alignment tool slips right in. Is this the proper fit? I have a new bushing and the same alignment tool is rather difficult to fit into while outside the engine.

Thanks in advance for all advice!

-Jamie

Please wait while image is uploading...

 

How can you tell if the plate is in the right way round without removing the clutch pressure plate. Also it looks as if a previous owner has tried to remove the fork, or the taper pin has failed, as the  pin is broken off and has bodged it with some weld to hold it in place. For that crack to be a recent development it would have had to crack around or through the right hand weld and it hasn`t, or has it? , so how can we be sure that the fork is in the correct relationship with the operating arm. Cut it all out and replace with new and while at it add a roll pin or a bolt to the fork to prevent future failure

Ralph

Edited August 27 by Ralph Whitaker

[Z320]

Hi Jamie,

on my 4A the bronze bearing has a sliding fit in the crankshaft and the extension of the gearbox shaft also a sliding fit in the bush.

I see no reason to worry.

The clutch cover is new and the friction plate pretty sure with the correct side on the flywheel.

Anyway, would you please remove the clutch cover and show us the friction plate. (both sides) and the surface of the flywheel.

BTW your photos are very good!

Ciao, Marco

[Z320]

8 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

How can you tell if the plate is in the right way round without removing the clutch pressure plate.

Ralph

The 45° coutersunk side of the toothed sleeve is good to see.

I have no doubt it is fitted correctly

[TR NIALL]

Remove the Pressure Plate and check that the Disc is in the correct way,you don’t want to be removing the Box again due to a silly mistake that could be rectified now.

[rcreweread]

The wear pattern on the spring “fingers” of the clutch cover indicate to me that the CRB is not connecting with the fingers as well as it should - it is clearly a diaphragm cover so the CRB should have a domed front face to match - earlier spring clutch ones had a flat face which the wear pattern would tend to suggest - have you got the correct CRB fitted?

cheers Rich

 

[Lebro]

It looks domed to me from the photo, but is it on the correct carrier, & are the square blocks fitted (which fit over the pins of the fork)

Bob

Edited August 27 by Lebro

[RogerH]

The video from Jamie shows the 4A coned bearing - that is correct.
A yellow metal carrier is fitted so if it is Phosphour bronze then the flat feet for the fork pins is not required.
Phosy Bronze is harder than brass.

If it has the brass (saloon) carrier then the flat feet are a MUST as the fork pins will easily grooves into the carrier fork pin groove

Marco has an interesting way of ensuring the plate is correctly fitted (the 45' chamfer on the inlet to the splined bore.)
Unless the disc has been built completely wrong then I would TRust Marco's tip.

As for the fork, shaft, bushes, etc I would renew all.
The bearing carrier can be fitted as Steel. despite a great deal of critiscism they work as well as anything else. 
Do fit the anti-rotation pin in the Steel carrier.

Make sure that the X2 alignment dowel Bolts are fitted correctly on the Eng/GB flange.

Good Luck

Roger 

[stuart]

1 hour ago, RogerH said:

Make sure that the X2 alignment dowel Bolts are fitted correctly on the Eng/GB flange.

Good Luck

Roger 

Not on 4 cylinder cars.

Stuart.

[stuart]

Also need to make sure the gearbox nose cover is the correct length for a diaphragm clutch .

Stuart.