4 Bonnet

[Nigel C]

some are excellent but steer away from cheap stuff. Tiger Seal, Sikaflex etc are good and bond GRP successfully which is unusual. When used these can take a lot of rattles and drumming out of old cars 

[John h]

That’s what you get for not reading it back  hopefully get on it tomorrow for a while have had an idea for the dents on the cross brace going to try using bearing puller and a flat. Bit of metal, perhaps a washer or a bit bigger to apply a little pressure. Hopefully will be able to to push out the dent regards, John 

[stuart]

37 minutes ago, John h said:

That’s what you get for not reading it back  hopefully get on it tomorrow for a while have had an idea for the dents on the cross brace going to try using bearing puller and a flat. Bit of metal, perhaps a washer or a bit bigger to apply a little pressure. Hopefully will be able to to push out the dent regards, John 

You need a slapper https://stakesys.co.uk/picard-checked-face-body-panel-slapper-251-8-1-2 to bring the inaccessible dents up.Or make your own.

Stuart.

Edited June 2, 2023 by stuart

[John h]

Is that what you mean haven’t had a go with the blue handled one yet 

[Malbaby]

The modern bonding products are very good. The only downside is that the product shrinks slightly as it sets and is not advisable for large flat panels.

[stuart]

17 hours ago, John h said:

Is that what you mean haven’t had a go with the blue handled one yet 

Yep the blue handled one is a slapper, the other is a spoon..

Stuart.

Edited June 3, 2023 by stuart

[Nigel C]

On 6/2/2023 at 4:44 PM, stuart said:

You need a slapper https://stakesys.co.uk/picard-checked-face-body-panel-slapper-251-8-1-2 to bring the inaccessible dents up.Or make your own.

Stuart.

yes these are very useful 

Edited June 3, 2023 by Nigel C

[John h]

Hi To all here are some more pictures just have another couple of hours out in the garage. I think I’m getting close now still a couple of areas I can’t do much with the dark spots on the front but to be fair they’re not as deep as they were oil canning. Has gone. I think I will now strip the balance of the paint off and start the painting process will post again what’s more progress has been made

[stillp]

That certainly looks good enough to paint.

Pete

[Malbaby]

While you are attending the general area, may I suggest welding in a small 'L' shaped brackets into the rear corners of bonnet opening. Where the top of the inner fender meets the scuttle panel.

[stuart]

12 hours ago, Malbaby said:

While you are attending the general area, may I suggest welding in a small 'L' shaped brackets into the rear corners of bonnet opening. Where the top of the inner fender meets the scuttle panel.

There already is one, its where the bonnet cones are located.

Stuart.

[Malbaby]

11 hours ago, stuart said:

There already is one, its where the bonnet cones are located.

Stuart.

I was not referring to the bonnet, but the top rear corners of the engine bay.

Edited June 5, 2023 by Malbaby

[Malbaby]

John...have you checked the LHS edge of your bonnet for the correct contour...[may be an optical illusion, but looks like there is a slight down bend]

[stuart]

11 hours ago, Malbaby said:

I was not referring to the bonnet, but the top rear corners of the engine bay.

That’s what I was referring to, there already is a corner section welded in 

Stuart

 

[John h]

Hi malbaby I think someone has had a go at the two rear corners, probably before sandblasted was more concerned initially with getting the bonnet more rigid still got a way to go will carry on working on it then will check the lines of the bonnet as it goes into the rear corners. You can see someone has welded a seam about an inch and a half in, that’s the same on both sides will turn my attention to that a little bit later hope everybody has enjoyed looking at this and seeing the progress being made hopefully will be able to push it on in the next few weeks. I’ll post again later. Lots more progress has been made

[Malbaby]

12 hours ago, stuart said:

That’s what I was referring to, there already is a corner section welded in 

Stuart

On both my cars the top of the inner guard was not in good alignment [as seen on your pic] and was not welded to the front face of the scuttle panel, so I straightened the edge and welded in a bracket.

 

 

Edited June 6, 2023 by Malbaby

[John h]

How to all have got the bonnet now as good as I can get it. I’ve coated it in Bondi rust going to wrap it put it away to get on with another stuff. I’ve got the original bonnet very rusty on the front tip have a little repair panel from another bonnet, if anyone can make use will be free to good home 

[Malbaby]

Is bondi rust a sealer or a chemical rust converter?

IMHO...I think you are taking an unnecessary risk of moisture penetration by not finishing the bonnet preparation including back to bare metal all over, [application of rust converter on any suspect areas] and the final application of epoxy primer to completely seal the surface.

Edited July 30, 2023 by Malbaby

[stuart]

15 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Is bondi rust a sealer or a chemical rust converter?

IMHO...I think you are taking an unnecessary risk of moisture penetration by not finishing the bonnet preparation including back to bare metal all over, [application of rust converter on any suspect areas] and the final application of epoxy primer to completely seal the surface.

Bondarust is a Zinc based primer and you can leave a panel outside once its had a couple of coats of that and it wont go rusty. You can paint any type of primer/paint combination you want over it.

Stuart.

[Besalu]

On 5/26/2023 at 5:29 AM, John h said:

Hi to all I got in touch with Stakesys looked on the website and they had a 4 1/2 inch one there would’ve come in at just under £50 with postage so of decided to give them a call. We are really helpful. They had a 9 inch one available just under £70 with the postage. Hopefully coming today. All I Gotta do then is learn how to use it. So thank you. Kevin forgiven me the heads up on that one. I will post results good or bad

John, did you master the shrinking disc? How is the bonnet coming along?

[John h]

Sorry for the delay in replying, I wouldn’t say I mastered it. It was very effective in the end. I ended up using a mixture torch and shrinking disc. Very pleased with the result turned what was basically it’s scrap bonnet back into something suitable bonnet is now in primer wrapped up and put away ready to have filler primer applied at a later date simply because I wanted to get engine, bay, painted and engine. Gearbox installed to give me more space in the garage there are some good videos on YouTube of people using shrinking discs which I found very useful. Kind regards, Jon

[Malbaby]

John......As a matter of interest, did you take the whole top of bonnet down to bare metal and apply rust converter etc. etc. before applying primer.....And what primer did you use?

[John h]

Hi malbaby yes stripped all paint inside as well obviously very difficult around the braces and then primed with bondarust not sure what type of paint going to use haven’t decided yet whether to go for Celulose or a two opacity

[Besalu]

On 5/29/2023 at 1:01 PM, stuart said:

I fit slightly bigger brace plates to the rear where the frame meets and it splits on the outside. They are available ready made from Revingtons at vast expense but I have a pattern for them if anyone need to borrow it.

Stuart.

 

Stuart, do you still have this pattern? Would you be able to send me an image by whatsapp or email? Thank you

[stuart]

3 hours ago, Besalu said:

Stuart, do you still have this pattern? Would you be able to send me an image by whatsapp or email? Thank you

Sadly not, it seems they never came back from the last person I lent them to, Theyre about 8" long by 4" wide at the rear with a return to the edge of the bonnet and swaged up over the front lip of the cross beam of the rear frame.

Stuart.