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Posted (edited)

I use a NOS Hella from the BMWs 1602/1802/2002.

Never failed, but I ALWAYS have one as a spare part for other - and gave it away 3 times

AP1GczPx5eQmsHFknrlo2c4AiEN6q5UgjiiSBmAm

 

Edited by Z320
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Biggles said:

The brake switch on my TR3a has failed again

Silly question maybe - but have you got the position adjusted correctly so that the switch is just operated but there is still some travel, so it isn't being forced against its end-stop? 

 

( I wonder what Moss consider an 'uprated' switch is ? That is a very meaningless word to use really) 

 

 

 

Edited by RobH
Posted
4 minutes ago, RobH said:

Silly question maybe - but have you got the position adjusted correctly so that the switch is just operated but there is still some travel, so it isn't being forced against its end-stop? 

 

( I wonder what Moss consider an 'uprated' switch is ? That is a very meaningless word to use really) 

 

 

 

My turn to ask a silly question, but is there any adjustment? - I thought it was hydraulic. This is the original placement, not up at the pedal stops.
and I have no idea what 'uprated' means either. 

Posted

The one you linked to is the pedal stop type - I thought you meant that was the type that failed.  No there is no adjustment on the hydraulic ones. 

Posted

Googling around this it looks like they fail often, but you can put a relay in the circuit somehow to prevent the hydraulic ones failing. Will have to investigate this but in the meantime I'll order a replacement from someone other than Moss.

Posted

The hydraulic ones suffer from high temp in the working environment. They all fail early.

Get the BMW switch and fit it against the master cylinder pedal.

Do not get the Moss plastic switch.

 

Roger

Posted
3 hours ago, RogerH said:

The hydraulic ones suffer from high temp in the working environment. They all fail early.

Get the BMW switch and fit it against the master cylinder pedal.

Do not get the Moss plastic switch.

 

Roger

I'm trying to avoid messing up my neat and tidy pedal box.DSCF2493.thumb.JPG.437330923dc94ef07041ace15d881c13.JPG

Posted

Very nice and I understand the desire to keep it that way. Your choice is unreliable hydraulic switch or a well installed and reliable mechanical switch. I have never had a good mechanical switch fail in my TR3A in the past 24 years since restoration. I initially fitted an hydraulic unit but it failed in less that a year so fitted a mechanical one.

Brian

Posted
9 hours ago, Biggles said:

I'm trying to avoid messing up my neat and tidy pedal box.

Here is another way to install the switch without it being visible.

 

IMG_2645a.JPG

Posted

I used the original hydraulic one that was on the wreck (cant call it a car, it had sat for years in a US scrapyard before I got it), it was caked in filth but it was during covid lockdown so I gave it a clean and put it on. I think it was probably the original Lucas one. Anyway it worked, and is still working now, although it is now only switching Bob Lebroc`s LED conversion brake lights, so probably handling a lot less current. People used to slate Lucas stuff, and still do, but it seems better than anything around now.

Ralph

Posted
52 minutes ago, Speedy said:

Here is another way to install the switch without it being visible.

 

IMG_2645a.JPG

That's very tidy, like that.

John.

Posted

Hi Rainer,

this pedal stop bracket is selfmade?

I have never seen this part before.

Ciao, Marco

Posted
1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I used the original hydraulic one that was on the wreck (cant call it a car, it had sat for years in a US scrapyard before I got it), it was caked in filth but it was during covid lockdown so I gave it a clean and put it on. I think it was probably the original Lucas one. Anyway it worked, and is still working now, although it is now only switching Bob Lebroc`s LED conversion brake lights, so probably handling a lot less current. People used to slate Lucas stuff, and still do, but it seems better than anything around now.

Ralph

Actually I have found that the hyraulic switch can appear to be worse with LED brake lights, in that it can put them on (due to leakage in the switch) when they should not be.  I use a mechanical switch myself these days.

post-12009-0-75273700-1514046453_thumb.jpg

Bob

Posted
2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

I used the original hydraulic one that was on the wreck (cant call it a car, it had sat for years in a US scrapyard before I got it), it was caked in filth but it was during covid lockdown so I gave it a clean and put it on. I think it was probably the original Lucas one. Anyway it worked, and is still working now, although it is now only switching Bob Lebroc`s LED conversion brake lights, so probably handling a lot less current. People used to slate Lucas stuff, and still do, but it seems better than anything around now.

Ralph

Hi Ralph,

people slate Lucas because it must be done. :P

 In fact Lucas have years of reliability behind them;)

Most parts can be disassembled and brought back to life. TRy that than on any modern part.:(

They used the best that was available at the time.

 

Roger

 

Roger

Posted
3 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi Rainer,

this pedal stop bracket is selfmade?

I have never seen this part before.

Ciao, Marco

No, you can't buy that. 
Through my TR3 restoration I'm constantly on the lookout for improvements and new ideas. Whenever I see something, I take a photo of it and maybe I'll use it on my own and rebuild it.
I have also seen so many new things through this forum and I've built a few things into my TR. Or I let myself be persuaded to install something “great” - as I did just a week ago with the Steering Geometry kit from Revington.
This is a very expensive forum here. :D

Posted

I see, it is part of your 2 cylinder brake.

In my opinion this forum is not expensive but ritch of good advice and helpfull members

Posted
51 minutes ago, Z320 said:

I see, it is part of your 2 cylinder brake.

No, my solution will be different. I also have a different pedalset.

Posted

After reading this I went out to the garage looking for my brake light switch. There is no sign up by the master cylinder and the pedals under the dash have no switch.

Mine has been there since 1986 and is no problem now. I can not remember where I fitted it,  it but I need some advice on where to look. 

I am jacking up the front tomorrow to check the steering and will look for it at the same time.

Richard & B

Posted
31 minutes ago, Richardtr3a said:

I went out to the garage looking for my brake light switch.

If it is the standard hydraulic switch it is in the engine bay,  in the brake-lines down on the chassis rail,  behind the wheel on the driver's side. 

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