TR4a Commissioning Thread

[RogerH]

Hi Rob,

do not do yourself down.

I think this is quite a good scientific (logical and sensible) way to go to get started.

As for what an engineer would do - this is it. You can't keep stabbing in the dark.

 

Roger

[Steven Whitaker]

My indicators don’t flash.  They stay on.  Tried 2 new flasher units but still the same.  Any ideas please?

[RobH]

If you have fitted LED lamps you need LED-compatible flasher units but If the lamps are standard this is odd. Coming on but not flashing means the connections to the lamps and the lamp earths must all be OK.   Usually it means a bad flasher unit - but some new flasher units need an earth connection which the original ones don't have.  What type did you fit? 

 

[Steven Whitaker]

They’re not LED type. Just the usual 3 spade type.  Odd.

[RobH]

Are they connected the right way round ? Perhaps the pins on the new ones are arranged differently?

Are they marked for the correct wattage of lamps?  i.e  2 x 21w 

Edited August 29 by RobH

[Steven Whitaker]

9 minutes ago, RobH said:

Are they connected the right way round ? Perhaps the pins on the new ones are arranged differently?

Are they marked for the correct wattage of lamps?  i.e  2 x 21w 

I’ll have a look, thanks.

[Steven Whitaker]

I've done 30 miles so far.  I've got her on Millers 'Running In Oil'.  How many miles is considered to be sufficient to say the running in oil can be replaced with normal engine oil please folks?

And anything else to do during/after running in.

I rebuilt the engine with new liners, pistons, all shell bearings etc.

Thanks.

[trchris]

Hi Steven I’d run it for 500 miles ( or what the manufacturer of the running in oil recommends) then drain and refill  with an oil with high levels of ZDDP also re torque the cylinder head and the usual check for any leaks 

Chris

[Steven Whitaker]

Thanks Chris.

[Steven Whitaker]

Regarding the non flashing indicators, all the bulbs are 21w and all stick on all the time, as does the lamp on the dash when the stalk is actuated.  The flasher unit is know to work on another car.  Wiring appears to be correct.  I cannot fathom out why they don't flash!  Any ideas on what to check next would be appreciated.  Maybe bi-pass the stalk switch, but that does see to work ok.  TIA.

[RobH]

35 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:

  I cannot fathom out why they don't flash!  Any ideas on what to check next would be appreciated. 

This has to be something wrong in the wiring.        My guess is the green/brown and light-green/purple wires are swapped over on the flasher unit.     That way it is the tell-tale bulb connected to the heating coil and it doesn't draw enough current to operate the switch.   Try swapping those two wires. 

 

The green (power) wire should be on the terminal marked X or B

The green/brown (lamps) wire should be on L

 

Edited September 2 by RobH

[Steven Whitaker]

18 minutes ago, RobH said:

This has to be something wrong in the wiring.        My guess is the green/brown and light-green/purple wires are swapped over on the flasher unit.     That way it is the tell-tale bulb connected to the heating coil and it doesn't draw enough current to operate the switch.   Try swapping those two wires. 

 

The green (power) wire should be on the terminal marked X or B

The green/brown (lamps) wire should be on L

 

Thanks Rob.  Much appreciated.  I'll have a look tonight.

[RobH]

35 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:

I'll have a look tonight.

If swapping the wires makes no difference, try this:

1/  Turn the flashers on ( either direction).   Remove the green/brown wire from the flasher unit. The lights should go out.  If they do, the wiring from there down to the lamps is OK and the problem is somewhere on the flasher unit.    If the lights do not go out, there is a direct connection to power somewhere in the wiring to the indicator switch . 

2/ If they do go out then replace that wire and disconnect the light-green/purple wire.  If the flasher starts to work there is a problem with that connection.

 

This fault is odd and really will depend on what type of flasher units you are using. With the original electro-mechanical type it should just not be possible as the way the internals work does not allow it.  

 

Edited September 2 by RobH