Seeking Advice on Wire Wheels & Tires for my applegreen TR2 – Aiming for a Period Rally Look

[tr2_applegreen]

Hi everyone,

my applegreen TR2 is fitted with the original steel wheels (I believe they are 4.5” wide?) and Vredestein Sprint Classic tires in 165 width.

I’m now considering switching to silver-painted wire wheels with 2-eared spinners to give the car a more purposeful, rally-inspired appearance. (I think silver-painted wheels would better complement the applegreen paintwork than the chrome versions.)

That said, I have a few questions I’d really appreciate your insights on:

1. Number of Spokes – 48, 60 or 72?
   From what I’ve read, 48 spokes would be period-correct for the TR2. However, I’m concerned they may not be as visually appealing or as robust, especially for spirited road use.
   The 72-spoke variant seems a bit overkill for my taste (and is usually 5.5” wide).
   Would the 60-spoke version be a good compromise in terms of both strength and looks?
2. Tire Width – Stick with 165 or go wider?
   One thing that bothers me about the current setup is how empty the wheel arches look. I’m wondering whether a 185-width tire might fill them out better and enhance the car’s stance.
   Would 185s require the 72-spoke (5.5”) wheels, or could they still fit the 60-spoke ones (assuming they’re 5” wide)?
3. Thoughts on 6mm Spacers?
   Would 6mm spacers help improve the stance without introducing technical issues?
   - Do they meaningfully widen the track?
   - Do the wheels sit more flush with the arches?
   - Are they suitable with both 165 and 185 tires?
   I’d like to avoid modifying the car permanently (e.g., cutting wheel studs), as I’d prefer to keep the option of reverting to the original steel wheels in the future.
4. Tubes or Tubeless Tires?
   What’s the consensus on running tubes vs. going tubeless with wire wheels?
5. Suspension Considerations?
   Should I also be thinking about suspension changes (e.g., ride height, dampers) in connection with changing the wheel/tire setup?

Ultimately, I’m aiming for a tougher, more rally-inspired look with a fuller stance — but ideally still with a period-correct flavor. I’d love to hear your experiences or recommendations regarding the ideal combination of spoke count, tire width, use of spacers, and tube vs. tubeless setup.

Thanks in advance!
Best regards, Tobi

[John Morrison]

Much to cover tobi

48 spoke are really not up to the job and especially if you go wider tyres (I wouldn’t) stay with 165 look correct and easier at parking speeds 

if you don’t want to cut the stubs then you must use spacers (I have some you could try , I think I have 6 and 9 mm but would need to check)

I think all new wires are now tubeless but run them with tubes.- important this

sort all above and only then having driven the car would Ieven consider changing anything else

 

on a final personal note I changed back to original steels 4 inch by the way few years back, very pleased I did and wouldn’t go back to wires.

John

[fordfiesta]

Motor Wheel Services (MWS) offer for sale a 72-spoke wheel that looks very good on an early sidescreen car. I believe that it is 15" x 5" wide, and was original for the MGC or Morgan +4 Supersport. The offset of this wheel works well with the steering geometry of the TR, and doesn't look out-of-period in the front wing opening. My first set of these wheels came from a Morgan, and I used them on two or three sidescreen TRs. A large bonus (at least in the USA) is that the 72-spoke wheels do not easily get out of true, and thus re-truing the spokes is almost never necessary.

[Drewmotty]

5 1/2” 72 spokes as used on the TR6 suit the car and are much stronger than the wires used by the period rally cars. 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

But the 72 spoke or 5” or 5 1/2”. inflated  wheel and tyre will not fit in the spare wheel compartment 

Edited May 3 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Drewmotty]

I have a 48 spoke with 155 for a spare. Not strictly allowed I know but doesn’t look out of place and will get me off the motorway if not all the way home. 
For some time I’ve been toying with cutting out the boot floor but haven’t managed to pluck up the courage yet. 

[Chilliman]

1 hour ago, Drewmotty said:

For some time I’ve been toying with cutting out the boot floor but haven’t managed to pluck up the courage yet. 

Like that 's going to happen now.....

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

On 5/3/2025 at 7:11 PM, Drewmotty said:

I have a 48 spoke with 155 for a spare. Not strictly allowed I know but doesn’t look out of place and will get me off the motorway if not all the way home. 
For some time I’ve been toying with cutting out the boot floor but haven’t managed to pluck up the courage yet. 

I have a space saver steel in the spare wheel hole from a Volvo V40. It was cheaper than a replacement 155/80/15 tyre fitted.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176248232037?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eyeY9bbVRs2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=GBORZ5kJRNS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Edited May 6 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[TR Rob]

24 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I have a space saver steel in the spare wheel hole from a Volvo V40. It was cheaper than a replacement 155/80/15 tyre fitted.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176248232037?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eyeY9bbVRs2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=GBORZ5kJRNS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I have the same set up, but at the moment car is running on a set of TR6 steel rims, with 6mm spacers. 

Also have a set of chrome wires and adaptors, which fit easily as original studs have not been cut down.

When on wires the spare wire wheel with 165x80 fits easily in boot, even when inflated.

My car is a 1960 year and I think it has a deeper spare wheel well ?

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 minute ago, TR Rob said:

I have the same set up, but at the moment car is running on a set of TR6 steel rims, with 6mm spacers. 

Also have a set of chrome wires and adaptors, which fit easily as original studs have not been cut down.

When on wires the spare wire wheel with 165x80 fits easily in boot, even when inflated.

My car is a 1960 year and I think it has a deeper spare wheel well ?

 

Correct later comm has a raised section in the boot floor to make the spare wheel taller by 1/2"

[Drewmotty]

Mine has the raised floor but I run 72 spoke 5 1/2 rims and it won’t fit. 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

The raised floor was to accommodate 165 tyre on 4 1/2”  60 spoke rims.

[TR Rob]

31 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

The raised floor was to accommodate 165 tyre on 4 1/2”  60 spoke rims.

+1

[tr2_applegreen]

Thanks a lot for all your advice.
I think I will go for silver painted 60 spoke 4,5“ wheels with 165 tires and 6mm spacers.

TR Shop London offers a complete set with adapters, spinners and nuts for £1,025.00:
https://www.trshop.co.uk/product/4-5-x-15-60-spoke-wire-wheel-kit-silver-painted/

However, including shipping and and customs (to Germany) it will be approx. 1.450€

Do you know any cheaper source (for location Germany)?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Anglo parts is the only web site I can operate.    Bastuk is a nightmare 

https://www.angloparts.com/en/part/046.204

A lot more expensive than TR Shop for the same items.

Did you consider driving to UK and getting them fitted here then driving home?  You would not be the first, nor last.

 

Edited May 10 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[rcreweread]

12 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said:

Thanks a lot for all your advice.
I think I will go for silver painted 60 spoke 4,5“ wheels with 165 tires and 6mm spacers.

TR Shop London offers a complete set with adapters, spinners and nuts for £1,025.00:
https://www.trshop.co.uk/product/4-5-x-15-60-spoke-wire-wheel-kit-silver-painted/

However, including shipping and and customs (to Germany) it will be approx. 1.450€

Do you know any cheaper source (for location Germany)?

Buy some used ones from either here or  on ebay and arrange for then to be sent to Tudor Wheels at Cadnam in the New Forest for refurb - they will initially check them for spline wear, fix broken spokes and re-true,  blast clean them  and then powder coat to your colour for less than £100 wheel  - might be worth buying as couple of sets ( there are often some really cheap sets around) and then Tudor wheels can select the best ones  to use and you can bin the ones you dont use.

As Peter said above, good excuse to drive over and have them fitted over here!

Cheers Rich

[tr2_applegreen]

Sound great. I‘d love to drive over and get them fitted. However, I am afraid I won‘t find the time for it.

Buying used ones sounds like a good alternative.
I‘ll have a look at the marketplaces.

[Teher]

My TR2 was equipped with steel wheels, which I wanted to replace for the same reasons: to give it a rally look while remaining consistent with the era, i.e., without distorting it by adding modern improvements.
The original fitment was 48 spokes with the equivalent of a 155 tire, however, competition cars received 60-spoke wheels. I made the mistake of buying 60-spoke wheels, thinking my 165s would fit better, when in reality they fit perfectly on 48-spoke wheels.
So I can only advise you on ensuring perfect compliance with the 48 spokes, even though 60-spoke wheels are also acceptable.

Regarding  the width, the original fitment was 155mm, however, it's easier to find 165mm tires these days.
I must also admit that 165mm tires have the advantage of better filling the wheel arches.
I certainly wouldn't go any wider for two reasons: aesthetics; tires with a modern or low-profile design are ugly and too wide, making them look like "jacky tuning" (a French joke I can't translate)...

Spacers? Why bother? A TR2 is a very respectable old lady, not a drag racer!
At MWS, which continues to manufacture the original Dunlops, their rims are now tubeless.
Finally, regarding the suspension, if you stick as close as possible to the original configuration, you won't need to modify anything!
A worthwhile modification can nevertheless be made by reinforcing the lower wishbone mount : 

[tr2_applegreen]

On 5/13/2025 at 7:04 AM, Teher said:

My TR2 was equipped with steel wheels, which I wanted to replace for the same reasons: to give it a rally look while remaining consistent with the era, i.e., without distorting it by adding modern improvements.
The original fitment was 48 spokes with the equivalent of a 155 tire, however, competition cars received 60-spoke wheels. I made the mistake of buying 60-spoke wheels, thinking my 165s would fit better, when in reality they fit perfectly on 48-spoke wheels.
So I can only advise you on ensuring perfect compliance with the 48 spokes, even though 60-spoke wheels are also acceptable.

Regarding  the width, the original fitment was 155mm, however, it's easier to find 165mm tires these days.
I must also admit that 165mm tires have the advantage of better filling the wheel arches.
I certainly wouldn't go any wider for two reasons: aesthetics; tires with a modern or low-profile design are ugly and too wide, making them look like "jacky tuning" (a French joke I can't translate)...

Spacers? Why bother? A TR2 is a very respectable old lady, not a drag racer!
At MWS, which continues to manufacture the original Dunlops, their rims are now tubeless.
Finally, regarding the suspension, if you stick as close as possible to the original configuration, you won't need to modify anything!
A worthwhile modification can nevertheless be made by reinforcing the lower wishbone mount : 

Thanks a lot!

Could you explain why the 60spokes wheels do not fit that well with the 165 tires? I hear that for the first time. Which alternative tire size do you recommend for the 60 spokes wheels?

Which wheel/tire combination did you end up with?

 

General question concerning tubes: Although the new MWS wheels are tubeless, would you still recommend to use a tube? What are the advantages/disadvantages?

A friend of mine is running the tubeless 60spokes wheels without tubes, and he continously has issues with air pressure loss.

[stuart]

6 hours ago, tr2_applegreen said:

Thanks a lot!

Could you explain why the 60spokes wheels do not fit that well with the 165 tires? I hear that for the first time. Which alternative tire size do you recommend for the 60 spokes wheels?

Which wheel/tire combination did you end up with?

 

General question concerning tubes: Although the new MWS wheels are tubeless, would you still recommend to use a tube? What are the advantages/disadvantages?

A friend of mine is running the tubeless 60spokes wheels without tubes, and he continously has issues with air pressure loss.

There isnt a problem with 165 on 60 spoke so Ive no idea why he should think that. As to the new tubeless wires I would still run tubes in them, always use Mitchelin tubes as theyre the best.

Stuart.

[Teher]

You misunderstood what I wrote! 🥴

I just thought my 165 tires, which is the maximum width that 48-spoke MWS tires can accommodate, would be more suitable for 60-spoke tires. 🤔

So I had my 165s mounted on 60-spoke tires, and I did it tubeless since the rims are designed for them. 🫡

And it's purely an aesthetic choice that makes me regret not choosing 48-spoke tires. The stripped-down look of a TR2 is better suited, in my opinion, to 48 spokes than 60... 🥸

[Nigel C]

On 5/6/2025 at 4:28 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I have a space saver steel in the spare wheel hole from a Volvo V40. It was cheaper than a replacement 155/80/15 tyre fitted.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176248232037?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eyeY9bbVRs2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=GBORZ5kJRNS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Like the idea Pete, I did the same thing with a 4j steel and 155 ...I don't have the problem with it fitting in the spare wheel aperture but wanted to gain more boot space. BUT have you ever thought how you undo the adapter wheel nuts on the front when you're on the side of the road...on your own?

I have.

I made a "peddle stick" that reaches from the seat bracket to the brake peddle and is hinged by way of a nut and bolt in the centre. when you push down it expands and presses the peddle down until it is in a straight line then you push a pin through a corresponding hole and it locks it in place. then you can undo the spinner nuts and fit the steel.

By hinging in the centre it also fits in my bag with the scissor jack and winding handle......

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

10 hours ago, Nigel C said:

Like the idea Pete, I did the same thing with a 4j steel and 155 ...I don't have the problem with it fitting in the spare wheel aperture but wanted to gain more boot space. BUT have you ever thought how you undo the adapter wheel nuts on the front when you're on the side of the road...on your own?

I have.

I made a "peddle stick" that reaches from the seat bracket to the brake peddle and is hinged by way of a nut and bolt in the centre. when you push down it expands and presses the peddle down until it is in a straight line then you push a pin through a corresponding hole and it locks it in place. then you can undo the spinner nuts and fit the steel.

By hinging in the centre it also fits in my bag with the scissor jack and winding handle......

 

That’s a good idea.    I don’t have wire wheels so don’t need to be worrying about locking the hub to remove the adaptors.  To jam the brake pedal I have used a Krookloc type device before now.

[TR Rob]

17 hours ago, Nigel C said:

Like the idea Pete, I did the same thing with a 4j steel and 155 ...I don't have the problem with it fitting in the spare wheel aperture but wanted to gain more boot space. BUT have you ever thought how you undo the adapter wheel nuts on the front when you're on the side of the road...on your own?

I have.

I made a "peddle stick" that reaches from the seat bracket to the brake peddle and is hinged by way of a nut and bolt in the centre. when you push down it expands and presses the peddle down until it is in a straight line then you push a pin through a corresponding hole and it locks it in place. then you can undo the spinner nuts and fit the steel.

By hinging in the centre it also fits in my bag with the scissor jack and winding handle......

 

The adaptor wheel nuts are a nightmare to remove as they are ‘recessed’ into the spacer and as a consequence the bearing surface to get a socket on is very reduced. I can’t even imagine removing them at the roadside.

It was extremely difficult removing them at my local garage with an impact wrench and a full garage backup.

[rcreweread]

23 minutes ago, TR Rob said:

The adaptor wheel nuts are a nightmare to remove as they are ‘recessed’ into the spacer and as a consequence the bearing surface to get a socket on is very reduced. I can’t even imagine removing them at the roadside.

It was extremely difficult removing them at my local garage with an impact wrench and a full garage backup.

You need to use a 6 sided socket and grind the face of the socket back by about 1 mm or whatever the internal chamfer of the socket is, and then you will get maximum connection between the socket and the nut - then it will be no problem

cheers Rich C-R