Old clonk/clunk - New trial

[Casar66]

I thought I'd start a new thread because you can't see the wood for the trees. And I need a fresh start, mentally and factually.

The clunk is back. No matter what I did. new ball joints, new caliper, new pads, new bearings, new hub, nothing helped. Welding the torn seam on the frame didn't help either.

Of course I checked all the bolts and checked the trunion. Finally, I loosened the nuts on the lower wishbones and the anti-roll bar and drove carefully to remove any tension. All for nothing!

Today I had a visit from my very good old Ducati mechanic. And he wanted to hear for himself. The clunk is clearly coming from the front left and also (much quieter) from the front right.

The mechanic is certain: it's the brake pads in the brake callipers.

How can that be, as everything is new?

 

I then looked at the new pads in the new caliper. The outer pad is looser in the caliper.

I then inserted three anti-slip plates to reduce the lateral play. No change.

Then inserted metal strips at the top to reduce the vertical play of the pad. No change. Then just the pads without the anti-noise kit. No change.

What else can I do?

It's really driving me crazy and driving my TR is no longer fun. I need some distance. Or the egg of Columbus.

 

[Jonny TR6]

Swap your calipers and pads over to another TR6 and see if they can replicate what you’re getting ?

[Z320]

Why didn't you come to the German TR Register meeting at Bad Neuenahr last weekend?

Edited June 11, 2025 by Z320

[Casar66]

Don't have a 2nd Tr6 available here

[Mike C]

Maybe jack up the left front wheel and arrange for someone to apply the brakes, then try and rotate the wheel back and forth and see if you can better locate the source of the clunk.

[Casar66]

I did this already. There are noises doing that, but no clunk.

Last night I have checked my notes of the TR. The clunk is there since 2010! Since then I thought it comes from the rear (worn out brake plates). Since 2 years I know it could be the front as well, better: it must be the front.

And the clunk only appears while braking at very low speed (appr. at 3 - 8 km/h). Not when I brake hard or at higher speed. I think, that has something to do with the rotating speed of the disc. And never without braking. Never, no matter how hard I drive.

Within that time of 15 years I used 3 calipers. I replaced the original one by an used original one and got a replica this May. Always with new pads.  And always with clunk.

The only old stuff is the disk. I measured the disc yesterday, it it minimum 12,3 mm thick and concentricity is good.

[Z320]

I told you already 2 times what I suppose, you checked it and denied it 2 times.

Should we try again?

[Casar66]

Marco, you have supposed so many things. What exactly do you mean?

Edited June 12, 2025 by Casar66

[Z320]

My mistake years ago:

to get Green Stuff pads in the calipers I had to remove paint with a file - and did to much.

The pads had radial play in the calipers, moved down (--> back) while driving and forward while braking with a clonk against the calipers.

The clonk was not while braking, mostly short before stopping and again slightly off the brake pedal.

To avoid this you could use a German (ATE) Speizfeder or any other spring to avoid them moving back.

Mike C points in the same direction.

Ciao. Marco

   

Edited June 12, 2025 by Z320

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

+1 

My car had a dreadful clink and rattle from the front until I installed the anti rattle springs. Now no noise

My car has TR6 callipers fitted. 

[Z320]

Sure this ones?

[Casar66]

I use ATE pads with anti-noise kit, See picture.

But as I already wrote: with or without kit no difference

 

[Z320]

With or without…?

It makes no difference with or without if they are too weak…

Edited June 12, 2025 by Z320

[Casar66]

Marco, I used new kits (plate, pins and springs). For the clunk it makes no difference if the kit is new, old or not there. 

So I came to the conclusion, that this is not the reson for the clunk.

[Z320]

That’s OK for me,

sadly I can’t help you with another explanation 

Edited June 12, 2025 by Z320

[AJAS]

Could it be play in the swivel thread on the upright?

 

[Casar66]

12 minutes ago, AJAS said:

Could it be play in the swivel thread on the upright?

 

What is the swivel thread (excuse me, never heard that part an I am not a native speaker)?

Edited June 12, 2025 by Casar66

[RobH]

I think 'Ajas' means the thread in the vertical link and trunnion. 

[Casar66]

good point! I have checked this but only by sight and little torque. But I never had it seperate. I have stopped at this point because a experienced TR-mechanic told me, if the thread would have been worn out/damaged I should have noticed it in many more situations than just braking at 3 mph.

 But maxbe it is worth to check it?!

Edited June 12, 2025 by Casar66

[AJAS]

Yes, vertical link & trunnion - not a great explanation by me!! Do you have a go pro that you could strap to the suspension somewhere and try the 3mph test to see if you can see any movement...

[Casar66]

Nope, I have not. But I like the idea 👍

I could try an old mobile phone.

[Z320]

In my opinion our German TÜV should notice this on the Rüttelplatte.

But never say never…

[Casar66]

Are you serious? If yes I will drive to the TÜV (MOT in GB) asap.

[Z320]

Currently I am at the TÜV and made a video for you, I will load it up at YouTube for you.

All OK with my TR4A, got TÜV with laud and + 1 bonus month (should have been there in May)

Edited June 13, 2025 by Z320

[Z320]