Spin off oil filter housing.

[YOW500]

Hi everyone.

My TR6 engine oil filter housing has developed a "considerable leak". I have replaced all the seal components with care, and the leak still persists where the spin off housing meets the block. What am I doing wrong!!

I understand there are two types of housing ( see picture below, I hope!! ). Can anyone tell me please, why are there two different types. M6438AF06-4E75-4909-9100-4C3B30C3D310.heicy one is the simpler type with the long white oil filter. Is the latter type the one with the retained spring? does this type give a better seal?

All constructive advise please, as to how to stop my leak. Thank you. Russell

[Z320]

 

[YOW500]

I now understand that the spring loaded type on the left is the better type. to that end I have now fitted that type. All surfaces were scrupulously clean, and I still have a leak. As a last resort 😤😤 has anyone ever used a modern liquid sealant in conjunction with the original square O ring on the outer diameter.

Russell

[Chris Hale]

Have you checked carefully to make sure you haven’t got a second o ring packed in the groove in the block. 
This is a common cause of leaks 

[YOW500]

Hi Chris.

Thank you for the contact. Yes I have.

Russell

[jerrytr5]

The groove in the block is not a consistant depth. Not a problem with original filter as it 'fits where it touches'.

On my block I had to squeeze in some instant gasket into the groove, leave to cure, then install the sealing ring & filter adaptor.

Jerry

[Waldi]

I have the left design with the floating inner part. The bolt needed to be tightened more than I expected to achieve good sealing.

If that does not work, I suggest to take in off, inspect the flange faces, and measure&compare the relative height between the 2 faces from block and adapter.

A “dry fit” without the large gasket may help to see if it fits together.

You can buy a new set of gaskets from Moss (and possibly others).

I would not use sealant here.

Waldi

[YOW500]

Hi Waldi.

Thank you for your input. Jerrytr5 did use a small amount of instant sealant into the groove, this would seem to be a good idea. What would the problem be if a sealant was used. I value your opinion.

Regards Russell

[Mike C]

Some sealants squeeze out and block the oil galleries if used in excess. I generally use Permatex Aviation non hardening gasket sealer for that reason. 

[Waldi]

Hi Russel,
rubber O-rings work on the basis of being able to deform under pressure, thereby increasing the sealing capability. If an O ring (or square block-ring in this case) is fixed by a sealant this will impact its sealing. I prefer to find out why and cure the cause.

O-rings and the likes can be installed using a (compatible) grease or vaseline.

Waldi

[Andy Moltu]

Some blocks have a deeper groove for the outer seal. The spring loaded one compensates for this.

The fixed one came with 2 different sized inner o-rings to adjust for depth, however even with the thinner inner one it still wasn't possible to compress the outer seal. 

Before I swapped to the spring loaded type I had to split an outer seal with a Stanley knife and effectively use 1 and a half seals. (The cut down one deepest in the recess.)

 

[jerrytr5]

2 hours ago, Waldi said:

I prefer to find out why and cure the cause.

As Andy confirms, the cause is inconsistant depth. We now have two different but similar resolutions.

I suspect that I may have put in the instant gasket, re-installed the original filter housing with the lip coated with vaseline finger tight & left to cure. When removed this leaves a solid seal the correct depth & flatness to take the new adaptor seal. As it has now cured, it won't squeeze out.

Possibly safer than cutting a seal in half, but take your pick!

Anyway, it doesn't leak.

Jerry

[YOW500]

Thank you everyone. I'll keep trying. If I solve the issue, no pun intended, I'll let everyone know.  Russell

[DRD]

Russel, I had similar problems when I first used the one on the left. I had to adjust the spring loaded washer in the centre so it located properly and didn't wind down the threaded section.

Cheers Darren 

[YOW500]

Thank you Darren. I did ensure the spring loaded washer was located properly, but good point.  Russell

[YOW500]

In conclusion.

I have now fitted the type on the RHS picture, ( the early type ) for a second time. All parts were new and all surfaces very clean. The rubber parts were placed with care using Red Rubber grease. The housing was bolted through with a torque of 17 lbs.  So far, and only after five or six miles, the good news, no leaks.

The late type with the spring loaded face had other issues, and did give very bad leaks. I have two bolts to suit the late type. Both bolts have a short ( 4mm section ) machined from the thread to allow the centre plate to be compressed onto the block centre section location. One of my two bolts measures 66.7mm to the start of the machined section, the other measurers 70.7mm. This machined location is critical. If the machined location is not within tolerance it will not allow the outer diameter of the housing to sit far enough into the block to form a seal. Is this another possible reason why some people have found not one, but two square section seals in place in order to prevent leaks? Also, the O ring kit supplied for the spring plate measurers 1.7mm, the O ring on the one I removed measurers 2.5mm. The 2.5mm is a very tight fit into the centre housing, and possibly may not have allowed the spring loaded item to seal correctly?.

Only my thoughts, and to be frank, "enough is enough". Two days under the car covered in oil, up side down was a real pain. Is the late version really that much better? should I look further at that option? why was it redesigned?

Not all in vain I hope, just may possibly help someone else. 

Thank you again to those who gave advise, much appreciated. Russell