TR 4 Door Lock 'Chatter'

[John Morrison]

Had a couple of different door seals on my Tr4. 

Latest one is a Woolies 265A Flap mSeal, on Stewarts recommendation.

lovely fit but it hasn't solved an on going isue I have with the NS door, chattering

on the door lock. The dor panel fit i sfine, yet I can move the door 'Inside 2/3 MM on the lock.

The striker plate is as far inwards as it can go, being up against the the holes in the B Post, so I can't see what need sto be done.

Is there wear in the door catch or something else?

John.

[TR NIALL]

John have you tried to bend the flange outwards that the Seal sits on makes for a nice tight fit for the Seal and may stop the Door from rattling.

[RogerH]

Hi John

 have you greased the sprung wedge inside the door restraint

item # 54  https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/doors-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67-tr24--11--09--03

This must be free to move in and out.

Roger

[rcreweread]

11 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Had a couple of different door seals on my Tr4. 

Latest one is a Woolies 265A Flap mSeal, on Stewarts recommendation.

lovely fit but it hasn't solved an on going isue I have with the NS door, chattering

on the door lock. The dor panel fit i sfine, yet I can move the door 'Inside 2/3 MM on the lock.

The striker plate is as far inwards as it can go, being up against the the holes in the B Post, so I can't see what need sto be done.

Is there wear in the door catch or something else?

John.

John - how worn is the cog in your rotary door lock? The cog itself rarely wears as it constantly moves around - the pin it rotates on can wear but more usually the pin itself becomes loose as it is rivetted onto the back plate and this can come loose. The rivetted back of the pin is clearly visible in the middle of the attached photo. The front photo shows the head of the pin sticking through the top cover - when these come loose, they often wear the hole in the top cover which just adds to the problem.

This problem was raised previously on the forum since when I now have a good stock of latches for both sides, all refurbished, just like the photos attached-  PM if you are interested in one - cheers Rich C-R

 

 

[stuart]

FWIW I have had to file the holes out in the "B" post face to get the catch in a little further on a couple of cars, A rat tail file with care to make sure you dont damage the the thread on the securing plate works OK as the plate is in a captive cage and does have a bit more movement. Obviously if its on a 4/4a you need to be careful trying to move the door in further as the door card will be hard against the door seal if its running across the triangular stiffener at the bottom of the "B" post or have you done the mod we talked about with the 5/6 stiffener?

Stuart.

Edited September 3, 2025 by stuart

[Rob Salisbury]

If you look carefully at the latch plate positioned on the B post there is a small sliding latch that engages with the rotating cog (it's just above the nylon guide block), make sure the latch is free to move against it's spring as the door is closed, also check all of the screws holding the lock in the door are tight, one of them is a self tapper.

Cheers Rob

[John Morrison]

OK Thanks guys, 

quick look last night shows there is 'Rock' on the cog on the NS, as described in Rich's post, so I need to investigate further.

Stuart, yes took your advice and fitted the 265A seal from Woolies, haven't altered the strengthener yet, that'll be a winter job but the door seems to shut OK at the moment.

Rob. quick look doesn't seem to show any sliding on those two teeth, ned to go further with that.

 

Thanks to all for the replies.

John.

[Rob Salisbury]

Hi John,

      Had a closer look in daylight, it's not the cog that engages with this sliding latch, rather it's the peg in the door lock that rises on the nylon guide, so look just below the top screw on the B post latch plate.

Cheers Rob

[Pontious]

On 9/3/2025 at 10:44 AM, rcreweread said:

John - how worn is the cog in your rotary door lock? The cog itself rarely wears as it constantly moves around - the pin it rotates on can wear but more usually the pin itself becomes loose as it is rivetted onto the back plate and this can come loose. The rivetted back of the pin is clearly visible in the middle of the attached photo. The front photo shows the head of the pin sticking through the top cover - when these come loose, they often wear the hole in the top cover which just adds to the problem.

This problem was raised previously on the forum since when I now have a good stock of latches for both sides, all refurbished, just like the photos attached-  PM if you are interested in one - cheers Rich C-R

 

 

Thanks Rich

I bought one of your refurbished door latches to replace my 4A driver’s one which was very worn and usually needed a good slam to engage. 
What a transformation - it now easily clunks just a VW Golf as the old advert used to say!

So thank you for that.

David

 

[rcreweread]

26 minutes ago, Pontious said:

Thanks Rich

I bought one of your refurbished door latches to replace my 4A driver’s one which was very worn and usually needed a good slam to engage. 
What a transformation - it now easily clunks just a VW Golf as the old advert used to say!

So thank you for that.

David

 

David - thanks and glad to have been able to help - it makes it worthwhile when one's efforts work well and are appreciated - thanks again

Cheers Rich C-R