Universal Joint to replace steering column upper flexible coupling

[tim hunt]

Ten years ago I replaced the lower flexible coupling on my car with a u/j as fitted as OE on TR5 and 6. This has proved very satisfactory, with no play having developed and I definitely noticed that the steering became less vague, but I retained the upper flexible coupling, thinking that this would preserve some compliance. I had seen it suggested that if both couplings were replaced by u/js then more road shock would be transmitted through the steering wheel. I have now been convinced that this is not the case and I would gain a further benefit by replacing the upper flexible coupling. I obtained a suitable pressed steel joint from Car Builder Solutions (2 x 36 splines 93mm overall length and 75mm c to c for the clamping bolt holes) and have a question on how to fit it. If I remove the bolt clamping the adaptor to the  upper inner steering column, then remove the column clamp assembly will I be able to slide the upper inner column into the outer column far enough to fit the new u/j, having removed the old flexible coupling from the lower shaft?

I am aware that, when fitting, the spider of the upper u/j should be aligned with that on the lower one.

Tim 

[Z320]

Hi Tim,

I also have a steel joint on the lower end of the steerning column - but have the rubber joint still on the upper end.

In my opinion the upper rubber joint is one of the very few safety features of these cars.

And I hope it will brake in the case of a traffic accident.

To your question: with the steering wheel close to the dashboard

(like on my 4A, I'm 192 cm tall) it is very likely the steering column must be out to fit an upper steel joint.

What a hassle....

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited September 14, 2025 by Z320

[tim hunt]

Thanks Marco but that was not really what I wanted to hear! Is there anyone on here who has actually done the job and who can give me some guidance/comfort?

Tim

[Z320]

Sorry me

[harrytr5]

Yes Tim,

Just slacken the upper clamp and push the sliding inner column in. This is the collapsing column in a accident designed by those clever Triumph engineers.

Regards Harry

[TR4Tony VC]

I use UJ’s on both joints and they are easy to fit and replace in situ, just pull the steering column out slightly to give the inch or so extra room to change the joints.

Regards

Tony 

[Drewmotty]

Don’t forget to line up the crucifix in the new joint with the one in the bottom joint. 
You’ll be hard pressed to find anyone who can feel the difference on a steering column application but it’s good engineering practice and it’s just as easy to fit it correctly. 

[tim hunt]

Many thanks Harry, Tony and Andrew. I am reassured now.

Tim, 

[Malbaby]

Tim, have you considered fitting a modified lower column to achieve a truly collapsible one, as the factory design is next to useless.

I used parts from what I think was a Spitfire column....Had to have an engineering shop cut new splines on one end of the inner shaft though.

Fairly sure Cortina U/J same as TR.

[Z320]

7 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Tim, have you considered fitting a modified lower column to achieve a truly collapsible one, as the factory design is next to useless.

I used parts from what I think was a Spitfire column....Had to have an engineering shop cut new splines on one end of the inner shaft though.

Fairly sure Cortina U/J same as TR.

This is also what I consider,

while I still have the rubber joint on top.

My focus is on a tube with holes, about like the one the air cooled VW Beetle had.

A future project and for responsibility nothing I will report.

Ciao, Marco

Edited September 15, 2025 by Z320

[Z320]

See this video, please.

This is a collapsable steering column,

the lower TR column very likely will lift the upper one up and not compress it

Edited September 15, 2025 by Z320

[tim hunt]

An interesting idea Marco, but above my pay grade as regards to engineering skills. Just a thought - how would such a modification fare with the TUV? 

Tim

[Z320]

Not at all, this is why this is only an example how it could be made better.

[tim hunt]

On 9/14/2025 at 5:25 PM, TR4Tony VC said:

 

Hello Gents,

The U/J I sourced is of very nice, heavy duty quality. I haven't tried to fit it yet but eyeballing it I get the impression that the lower end will need a little more clearance to rotate that the old flexible coupling did when clamped on the lower column. The high tensile 5/16" UNF bolts supplied were unnecessarily long and I have already taken 1/4" off of one, reducing it to the minimum length required.

As a matter of interest, when fitting your upper universal joints did you find it necesssary to relieve the bulkhead a tad under the steering column? 

Tim

[Malbaby]

3 hours ago, tim hunt said:

Hello Gents,

The U/J I sourced is of very nice, heavy duty quality. I haven't tried to fit it yet but eyeballing it I get the impression that the lower end will need a little more clearance to rotate that the old flexible coupling did when clamped on the lower column. The high tensile 5/16" UNF bolts supplied were unnecessarily long and I have already taken 1/4" off of one, reducing it to the minimum length required.

As a matter of interest, when fitting your upper universal joints did you find it necesssary to relieve the bulkhead a tad under the steering column? 

Tim

Hi Tim,

Should not have to modify the bulkhead...The position of the upper column is the determining factor...Column forward= more clearance...As the column moves back, the lower shaft moves down and closer to the horizontal bulkhead....Could be that your new U/J is larger than necessary, or the upper column is too far back into the cockpit...Can you lay your hands on a Cortina U/J to compare?.

As others have suggested, loosen the upper column,and move it back to trial fit the upper U/J...or unbolt the steering rack.

Edited September 15, 2025 by Malbaby

[TR4Tony VC]

15 hours ago, tim hunt said:

Hello Gents,

The U/J I sourced is of very nice, heavy duty quality. I haven't tried to fit it yet but eyeballing it I get the impression that the lower end will need a little more clearance to rotate that the old flexible coupling did when clamped on the lower column. The high tensile 5/16" UNF bolts supplied were unnecessarily long and I have already taken 1/4" off of one, reducing it to the minimum length required.

As a matter of interest, when fitting your upper universal joints did you find it necesssary to relieve the bulkhead a tad under the steering column? 

Tim

I think you may need to be a little careful on two counts here. First, the bolts supplied are usually the correct length for the nyloc to grab properly so shortening them might not be advisable. It’s worth checking this when both the washer is on and off. Usually there is a washer only if the bolt head is small (such as a cap bolt with a hex internal as on at least one of the types over used. The other aspect is that the standard bolts are drilled and wired out of the donut as there is no nut on the end. Some suppliers just use the same bolt length irrespective.
 

Secondly, there are longer UJs that look like they will fit a TR column, I think for rally escorts. My experience is that you end up shortening the total length up on the collapsing section in front of the bulkhead, but there isn’t much ‘collapse length’ if you use the longer UJ’s. These UJ’s are too long. Ideally whatever UJ is used should be the same length as the whole standard donut assembly that comes off, as per the later TR6 parts - a few mm probably doesn’t matter, but I haven’t been comfortable with more.

Im forever swapping out standard parts for ‘better’ alternatives and sometimes it doesn’t quite work. Column UJ’s are one of those parts, so it’s a matter of choosing the right ones from many.

Regards

Tony 

 

Edited September 16, 2025 by TR4Tony VC

[Z320]

original is 90 mm,

the UJ I use on the steering rack is 90 mm too

Edited September 16, 2025 by Z320