Brake squeal

[dblenk]

New pads classic gold with drilled discs got a squeal last year

thought it was the rear so new shoes classic gold cleaned etc etc

think its the front pads not the rear squeal still there

seen a few kits on ebay for shims and goop any recommendations

cheers

David 

[Paul Hig]

Had a squeal issue on my 6. Turned out to be the pins holding the pads were corroded, so not allowing the pads to move freely. New pins and now no squeal

[dblenk]

6 minutes ago, Paul Hig said:

Had a squeal issue on my 6. Turned out to be the pins holding the pads were corroded, so not allowing the pads to move freely. New pins and now no squeal

yeah the kits come with pins and clips just with ebay some are better than us i was wondering if anyone has bought one

David

[Z320]

Hi,

due to the Ate „Brake Manual“ (German) it is the brake pads digging in the disk.

To avoid this the load must be more on the running off side of the pad.

Porsche used special pistons, Toyota a small and a bigger piston, what I call „half shims“ do that job very well.

This is what I recommended to use here several times / postes, I use them too.

Ciao, Marco 

Edited September 30, 2025 by Z320

[RogerH]

They worked perfectly on both the TR4 and TR4A

 

Roger

[Z320]

„full shims“ can be cut in shape with a scissors

[John Morrison]

3M anti squeal pads from Big Red

John

[dblenk]

interesting

david

[PodOne]

9 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

due to the Ate „Brake Manual“ (German) it is the brake pads digging in the disk.

To avoid this the load must be more on the running off side of the pad.

Porsche used special pistons, Toyota a small and a bigger piston, what I call „half shims“ do that job very well.

This is what I recommended to use here several times / postes, I use them too.

Ciao, Marco 

+1 for Marco's advice the above shims plus Mintex brake grease and I've no issues now for past 16 months or so. Quite as a mouse.

Had tried 3M shims, full shims, copper slip, filed pads, pad springs and new pins all failed.

Andy 

[8iggles]

The shims on e-bay like the ones Marco recommends are for the 3/16" pins. Even the ones listed as fitting the earlier TRs: TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6.

These TRs need the shims with 1/4" holes to fit the imperial callipers.

Just make sure you get the correct ones for your TR. It cost me half what I paid to send them back!

John

[dblenk]

1 hour ago, 8iggles said:

The shims on e-bay like the ones Marco recommends are for the 3/16" pins. Even the ones listed as fitting the earlier TRs: TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6.

These TRs need the shims with 1/4" holes to fit the imperial callipers.

Just make sure you get the correct ones for your TR. It cost me half what I paid to send them back!

John

i am a late 6 so metric callipers

 

[Z320]

I used a drill,

with the shims in a machine vice!

Edited October 3, 2025 by Z320

[greasemonkey]

I have Willwood calipers & discs... with a squeal !

How thick are the shims?

If I understand correctly, the half shim goes behind the pad effectively tipping the piston slightly towards the direction of travel. So the piston puts pressure on its trailing edge first??

Or have I got the wrong end of the stick here??

Phil

  

[Z320]

The half shim gives the force more on the running off side of the pad and less on the running on.

Imagine you are water skiing on a flat wooden board / water ski.

You load your weight on the rear of the board / ski to slide up on the water.

And not on the front to avoid diving with the board down in the water.

I hope my explanation is good enough?

On Willwood calipers I with 4 pistons I would do an experiment with 3/4 shimps, 

but due to responsibility I‘m not telling anyone to do experiments with brakes.

Toyota did that with a smaller and a wider piston (hopefully TR owners using them have installed them correctly…)

Better ask Willwood what they recommend.

The shims are only about 0.5-0.6 mm solid.

Ciao, Marco

Edited October 4, 2025 by Z320

[Z320]

On 9/30/2025 at 10:54 AM, Z320 said:

The gray „wedge“ is a tool to turn the Porsche piston (with its offset) in the correct position.

After adjusting, the tool is removed.

Where it has been for adjusting the piston, the piston has NO contact to the brake pad.

I’a afraid I can’t explain the issue better, but for any more question please ask.