Martin TR3a Posted November 6 Report Posted November 6 (edited) Hi, Still working through little jobs, which has been most enjoyable. One little problem has me stumped. Apologies for not knowing the correct names of the various parts of the door handle mechanism, hopefully you get what I mean... My passenger door handle points 45degs upwards when the door is closed. Driver's side is fine, a little upturned, but not noticeable. I've taken it apart and it all looks in decent condition. It just seems the 'channel' part, inside the door, that the actuator 'pin' (operated by turning the door handle) slides in, allows almost half an inch too much movement rearward, after the door's 'latch' has fully finished returning into the B post's 'keep'(?). The door is happily fully secured, with no further movement from the latch, when the door handle is horizontal, but that extra 1/2" of available channel allows the spring to rotate the handle the extra 45degs past this point, before it hits the stop at the end of the channel. The handle opens the latch fully, with plenty of free distance remaining in the inner channel, so it doesn't look like the channel has changed its position and it still looks to be in its original machined state, not worn longer. The handle's square spindle looks OK too. Rotating the handle 90degs just results in the handle ending 45degs downwards. TBH I'd rather have it pointing upwards than drooping... I'm wondering what's causing the problem? Edited November 6 by Martin TR3a Quote
Trumpy3 Posted November 7 Report Posted November 7 Martin. A topical subject for me. Just returned from a 4000Km trip down to Adelaide for our (TR Register Australia) national meet and concourse. While away the pax door handle on my late TR3A went sloppy(limp) and drooped like yours. Actually my problem sounded just like yours. Now I'm home I took a look. Removed the inner trim off to see the handle workings. I should have taken a photo. It would have shown all. Now I have to try and explain it. The handle unit with the square drive is attached to the outer door skin with two small nuts/washers. The square drive protrudes inwards and passes through a leaver that has a pin that works to open the lock. On this leaver is a protrusion on its upper edge that acts as a stop to locate the handle. This protrusion hits a raised portion of the inner skin that acts as a handle stop. That may be hard to follow but if you look at the mechanism it should make enough sense. My issue was that this leaver had moved away from the handle on the square drive and this prevented it from contacting the stop. Also the return spring on mine had broken but this may not be the case for you. To fix the problem, all that was required was tap the leaver further down on the square drive. It doesn't take much, about 1/16"-1/8", just enough to get the lever to contact the stop. This stop I'm talking about does not look like one. its simply a fold in the metal of the inner skin (skin may not be the correct word as it does not cove the complete inner door.) My issue was complicated as the leaver was not tight on the square drive and would not remain in place. I suspect there should be a retaining clip that pushes on the square drive to retain it in place. I never had one so drilled and taped the end of the square drive for a 10/32 screw that together with suitable washers, holds the leaver in place. If you had/have the clip then the fix would only take a few minutes once the inner trim is off. Brian Quote
cvtrian Posted November 7 Report Posted November 7 4 hours ago, Trumpy3 said: Martin. A topical subject for me. Just returned from a 4000Km trip down to Adelaide for our (TR Register Australia) national meet and concourse. While away the pax door handle on my late TR3A went sloppy(limp) and drooped like yours. Actually my problem sounded just like yours. Hi Martin, while I was on holiday in Australia, I was at Hahndorf for the concours event, and the next day at Glen Elg for the start of the Bay to Birdwood Which was your car, I may have a picture of it Regards Ian Quote
Drewmotty Posted November 7 Report Posted November 7 Issue 22 has a bit about this: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gfmi37kp2i2m7hi/AAASxwvmDIEsBE20f9BgebfSa?dl=0 Quote
Martin TR3a Posted November 7 Author Report Posted November 7 Thanks. Andrew's stop screw is an idea. I think I will adapt that idea and put a small screw, nut and washer through the channel the pin slides in, so it stops the handle returning beyond horizontal. I could even fine adjust that position with the size of washer. Another 'repair' the next owner can complain about! 👍 Quote
harlequin Posted November 7 Report Posted November 7 (edited) My TR3A had droopy handels, which was down to the bulges in thr inner door skin that acts as the stop had become dented and out of shape over the years. This allowed the plate on the handel shaft to slide over the stop. I fixed (bodged) it by drilling the bulges and installed a small dia screw with a large flat head to act as an adjustable stop. George Edited November 7 by harlequin Quote
Ian Vincent Posted November 7 Report Posted November 7 I have both my handle positions fixed and adjusted by strategically placed small screws. OK, not concours but no one is ever going to know. Oh, and I have my door panels secured with m3 stainless set screws into rivnuts because the original holes had been bu**ered by the previous owner. Again, no one would ever know from looking at them and they are secure. Rgds Ian Quote
Martin TR3a Posted November 7 Author Report Posted November 7 Feeling better about my bodge then! Quote
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 9 Report Posted November 9 Call that a bodge? my garden gate TR3 door handles are level due to the installation of a Hoover Junior vacuum cleaner bag hold up spring. Quote
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