keith1948 Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 I have had an interesting read of some old posts on getting the TR up in the air. I have 2 drive up ramps so can raise either front or back of the car and 2 trolley jacks and a selection of axle stands. While this works up to a point, it is a bit of a job raising the car enough to crawl underneath. As I get older getting under the car is ok but getting out again is another matter. So I am thinking of something better but don't want to break the bank. I found today that Machine Mart in the UK sell a 2.25 Tonne car lift and a drive on Sealey 3 Tonne ramp/lift. Has anyone any experience of either of these. The descriptions on the web page is a bit sparse on lifting heights and dimensions though. The 2.25 Tonne lift seems that it would have the weight of the engine hanging beyond the lift. Not too sure how safe that would be. The jacking cross piece for the drive on ramp looks as if it could get in the way maybe. I would also have liked to see the ends of the ramps a bit higher to minimise risk of driving over the end. Any thoughts on either of these? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/vehicle-lifts-1/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21110756079&gbraid=0AAAAA9fOAdT2PUF5ew-JOhgYa36D3yJKm&gclid=Cj0KCQiAosrJBhD0ARIsAHebCNpzxDu6ZLWHHOjhebaHaCHpCvgrfDMPhlLBRq41Yf_3ExX3JXDjJL0aAoh0EALw_wcB There is also the EZ lift sold by Holden https://www.holden.co.uk/c/maintenance/lifts_jacks_axle_stands/car_lifts Again has anyone any thoughts on this one? I think ideally maybe the Sealey drive on ramp with both ends raised and then a means of raising either front or back wheels up a bit higher so one or more wheels can be removed. Something a bit like the cross bar used on garage hoists with a jacking mechanism. I am not sure about the 2.25 tonne car lift because the weight of the engine might be too far forward for stability. Quote
Charlie D Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 (edited) Keith, I've looked at these sort of things from time to time and I wonder how useful they actually are. They don't really lift the car very high. You still have to "Crawl" to get under it, or lie on you back or whatever. I just feel that unless you can actually STAND under the car I don't really see the point. Also, how often do you need to have all 4 wheels off the ground? In most cases (I believe) you are only ever going to be working on the rear end, or the front end, but not both. (I'm sure that there ARE times you need to work on both ends at once, but not very often.) I use normal car axle stands at their highest reach. I would guess that you can get extra high (But still safe) axle stands which would be a fraction of the price of the items you mention. Just my personal thoughts and I wait to be shot down. Charlie. (PS I DO know what you mean about it being easy to crawl under the car but being difficult to crawl out. I'm nearly 76.) Edited December 6, 2025 by Charlie D Quote
iain Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 (edited) I bought a Automotech two post lift this summer. Short and narrow version. It’s an absolute game changer. Why I haven’t gone this route sooner I can not explain. https://automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-230nsp-3-0t-capacity-short-narrow-2-post-lift/ Max lift is 1.5m, seems low, but for 95% of jobs it’s more than enough. When I need to be underneath, I sit on an old milk crate with a ply lid on it. Couldn’t be happier. Delivery was impressively quick and support with installation excellent. Iain Edited December 6, 2025 by iain Quote
Don H. Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 (edited) I like Race Ramps wheel cribs for my TR. These bedliner-coated polystyrene foam blocks are suprisingly strong and light, and work pefectly to give me secure access under the car. They're kind of pricey, but I'm happy with the two-piece 12" set I've been using for a few years. For wheel, brake, or hub access, I use my jackstands. But the Race Ramp blocks give me more confidence for the height. Edited December 8, 2025 by Don H. Quote
james christie Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 I'm a scissor lift man. Use the search engine on here and you'll find some good practical info. james Quote
8iggles Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 (edited) I used two trolley jacks, axle stands, ramps and various blocks of wood for years What a palaver! I was recommended the EZ lift which, I bought: I like it. With my power drill it is so easy to jack up the TR, and it is very stable. I have a wheeled crawler board which fits between the ramps. In the winter the EZ stays under the TR. In summer it hangs on the wall. I still use the axle stands etc to spread the weight when necessary. The EZ is heavy and difficult to hang on the wall on my own. My financial advisor helps. Due to the weight I secure it to the wall with a chain for safety. When the TR4A IRS is up on the EZ lift the rear (and front?) of the TR are not supported. If suspended for any length of time I lower the TR onto the axle stands. John Edit: I was not aware of the race ramp wheel block things before but if they would compliment the EZ lift. When's Christmas? Edited December 17, 2025 by 8iggles Added Image and comment. Quote
harlequin Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 I looked at those long drive on ramps and actually tried a set out in the vendors garage, they were OKish but were so big the only place to store them was under the car. I ended up getting a CJ Autolift which is similar to the Sealey PPL01 that Machine Mart sell. I can get all 4 wheels off but it isn't perfect for working under the centre of the car, storage is easy as it folds up flat about 200mm deep and can be stored standing up against a wall. I also have a set of blocks similar to Don H so between the two most jobs get done, I use the Autolift to raise the car then lower it onto the blocks for things like exhaust work. George Quote
Don H. Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 7 hours ago, iain said: That looks terrific, Iain! Very nice. Do you use the lift for any other vehicles? Have you found the width or weight capacity to be a limitation in any way? And most of the time, two-poat lifts have specific requirments for concrete floor thickness for mounting the posts. Was that a requirement for your lift, one it looks like your garage floor met? Quote
TR NIALL Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 50 minutes ago, Don H. said: That looks terrific, Iain! Very nice. Do you use the lift for any other vehicles? Have you found the width or weight capacity to be a limitation in any way? And most of the time, two-poat lifts have specific requirments for concrete floor thickness for mounting the posts. Was that a requirement for your lift, one it looks like your garage floor met? Looks as if Ian had to put in a reinforced section across the width of the Lift. Quote
Don H. Posted December 6, 2025 Report Posted December 6, 2025 (edited) 4 hours ago, TR NIALL said: Looks as if Ian had to put in a reinforced section across the width of the Lift. Possibly, Niall — you’re referring to what looks like a new concrete section where the posts are? Sometimes people pour new squarish sections for the posts, too. Edited December 7, 2025 by Don H. Quote
TR NIALL Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 9 hours ago, Don H. said: Possibly, Niall — you’re referring to what looks like a new concrete section where the posts are? Sometimes people pour new squarish sections for the posts, too. Yes Don that’s the section I’m referring too. Quote
Jase Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 I went with the automotech ramps for mine, don't know how I managed without it. You can see on my profile. Quote
iain Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 (edited) Don/Niall, the shed floor was laid years ago and I wasn’t sure of the thickness or concrete grade.I drilled some test holes to check the thickness and found it to be marginal. Rather than take a risk, I had the floor dug out to a depth of 400mm (150 was the guidance). Width and length to the suppliers spec( I could have done two squares but decided it made little difference to the cost.) Added steel reinforcing, some driven under the existing slab and then filled with the appropriate grade of concrete. Left alone for 6 weeks before drilling for the mountings expansion bolts. So far Don I’ve only lifted the Tr and the Elan. It’s rated to 3000kg so I could lift other stuff, but to tbh I don’t play with the moderns. Width might be a problem with door opening, given the size , but they do another version that would solve that issue. In what could be a “world first” my wife has just described it as a good investment 😀…….oh dear this could get expensive😂 Iain Edited December 7, 2025 by iain Quote
PodOne Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 59 minutes ago, iain said: In what could be a “world first” my wife has just described it as a good investment 😀…….oh dear this could get expensive😂 😂 You have chosen wisely sir! Quote
Phil Read Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 I recently bought a full height 3.5 tonne scissor lift. Its brilliant I should have done it years ago. You do need a garage with headroom though. Quote
keith1948 Posted December 7, 2025 Author Report Posted December 7, 2025 (edited) Lots to think about here. Almost certainly would need to reinforce garage floor for a 2 post lift. I have the headroom but garage not that wide. Normally when using the 2 small drive on ramps or trolley jacks i get under the car from the side or the back or front depending on where I position things. Many of the full drive on ramps such as the machine mart one would limit access from the sides as would some of the scissor jacks. A pit is not really an option because of the water table. I think the Holden ez lift might take up too much room and I don't really have room to store it when not in use. I like the blocks solution because that would make a lot of jobs easier without having to crawl around jacks and axle stands etc. Maybe combine those with a scissor jack. Maybe DIY fix for £70 https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threads/diy-wooden-wheel-stands-aka-wheel-cribs.267762/ or Demon Tweeks for about £300 a pair https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/race-ramps-wheel-cribs-axle-stand-alternative-385257/ I do envy those of you with large tidy double garages. Mind you I would probably fill a double garage with spares, tools and other 'stuff' in no time. So a bit more thought required for me on this one. Keith Edited December 7, 2025 by keith1948 more info Quote
Kiwifrog Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 I have a friend with a full size 2,5 tonne two post lift that I use sometimes, the only issue with the TR3 is that it is so narrow you have to have the arms at almost their full extension, and even though the car is only 1 tonne the arms are very slightly bowed because of this, but it is brilliant to work on the car on the lift at any height you want depending what you are working on, slightly higher than waste height for the brakes and full in the air to do a full oil change and service cheers Alan Quote
Phil Read Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 My garage is just wide enough for 2 cars. I wanted a lift so I could still park 2 cars side by side. A scissor lift allows me to do this. The control box can be fit anywhere with in reason so there is plent of the room to work on the car either side and open doors. Quote
Malbaby Posted December 7, 2025 Report Posted December 7, 2025 I have a full height 2 post lift...Best mechanical investment money that I have ever made. "Iian's" shorty looks good if you do not have the height. I would not be too concerned about the concrete thickness providing you have sizeable base plates. Quote
FBM Posted December 8, 2025 Report Posted December 8, 2025 (edited) For regular maintenance, an essential ally has been a mobile scissor lift, rated to 3,500 kg and with a 1 m lifting height. To work underneath the car, I use a wheeled workshop creeper seat and a small and low service cart to keep tools and materials close at hand. Because the TR6 chassis is quite narrow, I use horizontal crossbars to position the lift blocks more centrally under the chassis. Since the TR6 is relatively light and well within the lift’s per-side capacity, I can orient the car with the engine toward the more open side and easily access the entire underside of the engine and gearbox. Edited May 20 by FBM Quote
Don H. Posted December 8, 2025 Report Posted December 8, 2025 On 12/6/2025 at 7:35 AM, iain said: @iain, I think we use the same oil drain pan! Quote
iain Posted December 8, 2025 Report Posted December 8, 2025 (edited) 23 hours ago, Don H. said: @iain, I think we use the same oil drain pan! Ha that’s funny😂 Edited December 9, 2025 by iain Quote
Phil Read Posted December 9, 2025 Report Posted December 9, 2025 On 12/7/2025 at 5:20 PM, roy53 said: which one is that Phil LIFTECH. I was going to get an Automotech as they are cheaper but they only had 3 phase in stock at the time. Quote
GreatOldOne Posted December 10, 2025 Report Posted December 10, 2025 I have a portable lift from these people: https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/vehicle-lifts/kwik-lifts-and-accessories-vehicle-lifts/lifts/ I only have a small single car garage, so don’t have the room for a permanently installed lift. These are light enough to be moved by a single person, and store against the garage walls when not in use. I believe you can a similar setup from Costco too: https://www.costco.co.uk/Tyres-Automotive/Garage/Trolley-Jacks-Axle-Stands/QuickJack-Portable-Automatic-Car-Lift-System-Jack-1587kg-Capacity-Model-BL-3500SLX/p/315646 Quote
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