car ramps/lifts to raise TR off the ground

[Brianjone5]

Of the two lifts Keith illustrated in his original post, I would (and actually might) choose the EZ lift from Howden.

1. I like that the raising and lowering power source is just a reasonably substantial drill. Th.ere is plenty to fail in a cheaply made hydraulic set up. I could use a battery powered drill and be independent of a power source.

2. When raised, there would be no connected hydraulic hoses, controls and pump set to hinder access around and under the car. This would be an increasing issue the smaller the garage

[harlequin]

2 hours ago, Brianjone5 said:

When I used ramps, I cut lengths of wood board (2" x 6") to the length required from the front of the ramps to the back wall of the garage. 

That's what I do at the moment, but being a serial tinkering old........well I'm sure you understand 

George 

[harlequin]

My CJ lift is powered by a big drill that I picked up in Lidel, the lift came with a winding handle but it's way to slow using it.

I don't think a cordless drill would be man enough especially going up with a car on it

George 

[Steve-B]

I think this from CJ might be the winner as it can be stood against the wall and is electric drill powered vs. Chinese hydraulics . I have a Makita impact mains powered drill I could drive it with...

£ 510 inc VAT is a reasonably decent price I think

I could see sliding it under car jacking one end up then reversing process to do same at rear…though if you go on CJs website you see a MX5 balanced on it... 🙃

Edited December 19, 2025 by Steve-B

[Chilliman]

14 minutes ago, Steve-B said:

I have a Makita impact mains powered drill I could drive it with...

Don't use an impact Steve, the gear set up on that lift isn't designed for it - I have that unit & use an 18v cordless Dewalt drill on slow speed - no effort at all & fully recommended.

[harlequin]

You will find the sweet spot to place the lift so that the car is nicely balanced for all 4 wheels off work, there is a bar to hold the car level but I use blocks which feels more secure to me.  I've had mine for about 10 years and am very pleased with mine. I have it set up on the narrow guage which suits both the TR3 and TR6, 

George 

[Dic Doretti]

[harlequin]

That wall looks like it ain't going to fall down any time soon Dic

[harrytr5]

26 minutes ago, Dic Doretti said:

No doors!

You guys are tough up there!

Regards Harry

[harlequin]

Doors?

Don't you mean Portcullis 🤣

George 

[Chilliman]

29 minutes ago, harlequin said:

Don't you mean Portcullis 🤣

Yup, that is fully worthy of a moat & drawbridge....absolutely love it 👍

[Dic Doretti]

          The cars are well catered for living in an almost 200 year old coach house while I live in an adjacent 2 up 2 down cottage!

[rcreweread]

When struggling with ramps moving on a surface when you drive on, and as already alluded to partially in earlier posts with timber spacers, if its on concrete, I drill holes of a suitable diameter for 6 inch nails about 2-3 inches deep  and fit the nails in front of the bottom rail of the ramp - I typically chop them down a bit and you obviously need to make sure the position is in the right place before you drill  - keep the hole size tight to the nail size so it doesn't wobble about. No need to drills the holes overly deep so as to risk penetrating any DPM

I've found this works really well and will also work on tarmac but don't just drive the nails in as this may risk breaking up the tarmac - better to drill them, and they are small enough then to be hardly noticeable

Cheers Rich

[Don H.]

When I visited our forum friend Menno in The Netherlands a year and a half ago we stopped for coffee ata few of his Saab and Triumph gearhead friends.  This gentleman's portable, 1-post Twin Busch lift seemed more than capable of lifting his TR.4A  Tons of headroom in his shop, too.

 

[harlequin]

1 hour ago, Dic Doretti said:

          The cars are well catered for living in an almost 200 year old coach house while I live in an adjacent 2 up 2 down cottage!

That looks timeless Dic especially with the Light 15 in the photo 

[TR NIALL]

4 hours ago, harlequin said:

That looks timeless Dic especially with the Light 15 in the photo 

Even more timeless now.

[harlequin]

🙂 Very good

[Steve-B]

23 hours ago, Chilliman said:

Don't use an impact Steve, the gear set up on that lift isn't designed for it - I have that unit & use an 18v cordless Dewalt drill on slow speed - no effort at all & fully recommended.

Noted -- also have a regular Makita mains powered and a 15.5v Makita cordless. Wonder if my cordless would have enough "umph" but don't mind using the mains powered one...

[Don H.]

5 hours ago, Steve-B said:

…Wonder if my cordless would have enough "umph" but don't mind using the mains powered one...

My 18/20V Milwaukee or DeWalt drills have been more than enough to easily turn anything I’ve been able to crank by hand. 

[Chilliman]

7 hours ago, Steve-B said:

Noted -- also have a regular Makita mains powered and a 15.5v Makita cordless. Wonder if my cordless would have enough "umph" but don't mind using the mains powered one...

Just one thing that is worthy of mentioning with this rig.......when you apply your chosen method of power to take the lift up or down, just be aware of the torque factor kicking in when you start applying the power to your drill. If you haven't got a very firm grasp (which isn't always easy at floor level) the body of the drill will rotate instead of the chuck & you end up with chipped paint on the edge of your sill.   Ask me how I know that one.....🤔

Edited December 20, 2025 by Chilliman

[stillp]

11 minutes ago, Chilliman said:

Just one thing that is worthy of mentioning with this rig.......when you apply your chosen method of power to take the lift up or down, just be aware of the torque factor kicking in when you start applying he power to your drill. If you haven't got a very firm grasp (which isn't always easy at floor level) the body of the drill will rotate instead of the chuck & you end up with chipped paint on the edge of your sill.   Ask me how I know that one.....🤔

Equally bad is when you do have a good grip and reach the end of travel the drill tries to rotate the handle and sprains your wrist! Ask me how I know...

My Makita LXT cordless drill has more than enough power to raise the TR on my elevating ramps.

Pete

Edited December 20, 2025 by stillp

[keith1948]

A friend of mine broke his thumb using a drill. I always fit the extra handle and if I think that there is a risk of the drill kicking back I keep my thumb out of the way. Years ago I was taught how to grip a starting handle with my thumb out of the way.

[harrytr5]

20 hours ago, TR NIALL said:

Even more timeless now.

loose the bins and perfect!

regards Harry

[Andy Moltu]

On 12/20/2025 at 9:14 PM, keith1948 said:

A friend of mine broke his thumb using a drill. I always fit the extra handle and if I think that there is a risk of the drill kicking back I keep my thumb out of the way. Years ago I was taught how to grip a starting handle with my thumb out of the way.

That's why it's wise to set the torque to prevent it being flung round!

[Andy Moltu]

A one post ramp does rather limit access to work on the underside. 

I've god a bodged up 2 post ramp. The new garage will hopefully have a new 2 poster with lower minimum height. Interestingly you can also get attachments for some 2 posters that lift by the wheels to give even better access to the underside.