car ramps/lifts to raise TR off the ground

[Ralph Whitaker]

I have just installed my new toy. I already have an old 2 post lift on the drive which is fine when the weather is good, but a pain to set the arms on the TR under the chassis. Not bad for moderns where you can just pick up on the sill jacking points. I also had another hydraulic lift in one of the garages that one had to drive over, but was too high when fully down for the TR and required the use of a couple of old scaffold boards to raise the front of the car when driving over, and the width of the TR track meant it was easy to catch the inside of the tyres on the locking catches of the arms. Also the way it was constructed meant that it was no good for working under the car other than the extreme front and rear. I decided to sell that lift and buy something I could drive onto easily, and that would give me un-interrupted  access underneath. After much searching I decided that the only one that gave me what I wanted was the one shown below. This was from Automotech and consists of 2 entirely seperate and unconnected synchronised scissor lifts. Available as a half or full height, as I only have low roofs in my garages there was no point in getting the full height, the half height which lifts to 1m enables me to get the TR fully up (with hood down) and still open and close the garage door.

I had to set them a bit closer together than the suggested 860mm otherwise the chassis rails were over the gap and not over the ramps, so ended up with 700mm gap. Also although the car would drive over OK there was only about 15mm gap between the sills and the ramps. Automotech do a set of low access riser ramps but these were another £460 + p+p and were too long at 1m for what I needed so made my own shorter versions as shown at a cost of £200 for materials and a day spent in the garage with the electric welder. These not only reduce the angle of the drive on ramps in to 2 easy stages but they raise the car by 55mm making it easy to position the rubber blocks under the chassis.

All together, including hire of a van for the day to collect from Stafford, (actually less than the delivery charge), and the material for the raiser ramps, it has cost me £2,800, but against that I got back £1000 for my old ramp.  I`m a very happy chappy.

Ralph

[james christie]

That's a useful feature to be able to vary the width between the platforms. Alas, not the case with mine, so I have to slip two cross beams across the platforms to pick up the TR by the chassis.

But then I have a gap of 85cm between the platforms rather than 70. 
I have also sunk mine into the garage floor

james

[wheeler]

Hi All 

Just finished helping my friend with a fuel tank change on his Jaguar XK150.

I dragged my scissor lift out of the garage to work outside due to the size of the Jaguar, I have had the lift for about 8 years but have only used the lift inside my garage and due to the motorised up and over doors height is limited. So we were very surprised at how high the lift goes with no height restrictions. Made the job so easy, it would have been very difficult without the lift and transmission jack. One of the best decisions I have made was to buy a lift, especially now that I am well over 80!!!

[Lebro]

Very good, unfortunately my garage is unsuitable for one of these.

Bob

[Paul Hig]

I use a "Quick Jack" for my 6 .... https://www.costco.co.uk/Tyres-Automotive/Garage/Trolley-Jacks-Axle-Stands/QuickJack-Portable-Automatic-Car-Lift-System-Jack-1587kg-Capacity-Model-BL-3500SLX/p/315646?srsltid=AfmBOoreuxYOPDzg1v3ZZZYK-Vy-0T1ZfNJUopp6bvT45pNQ5D2aTyMm

Fiddly to set up for each use, but only take a few minutes and is really stable even at full height. Give full access right down centre of car. Only hiccup I found in use is that can interfere with trailing arms if not aligned properly before use

 

[Trumpy3]

Hi all.

I wanted to add my two bobs worth earlier but it wasn't till now I could take any photos.

My work space is severely restricted in both height and floor space. While a two poster lift is the pick, one is not possible. After a search of all the possibles (year 2010) I settled on the Ezylift. It is an American built unit that can be simply stood up against a wall when not is use or disassembled and stored. It takes about 5 mins to disassemble and about the same to assemble with a single 9/16" spanner. This also makes it portable. It will fit in my 'ute', a 2007 Peugeot 307 wagon. Power is by way of a power drill, not supplied. A  1000W drill is recommended but a good cordless will work OK. When fully lowered, it will move by way of four casters. It is low enough to roll under the TR.

In my case, I keep two cars in the garage and simply roll the unit under which ever car is staying put. Takes about 2 mins.

The photos the access under the car when raised to the upper limit in my garage when the bonnet is raised and the first shows the max lift with a wheel positioned to give an idea of the max. while it is shown with the unit length ways under the car, it can be use across the car as well.

Brian

[harrytr5]

10 hours ago, Trumpy3 said:

Hi all.

I wanted to add my two bobs worth earlier but it wasn't till now I could take any photos.

My work space is severely restricted in both height and floor space. While a two poster lift is the pick, one is not possible. After a search of all the possibles (year 2010) I settled on the Ezylift. It is an American built unit that can be simply stood up against a wall when not is use or disassembled and stored. It takes about 5 mins to disassemble and about the same to assemble with a single 9/16" spanner. This also makes it portable. It will fit in my 'ute', a 2007 Peugeot 307 wagon. Power is by way of a power drill, not supplied. A  1000W drill is recommended but a good cordless will work OK. When fully lowered, it will move by way of four casters. It is low enough to roll under the TR.

In my case, I keep two cars in the garage and simply roll the unit under which ever car is staying put. Takes about 2 mins.

The photos the access under the car when raised to the upper limit in my garage when the bonnet is raised and the first shows the max lift with a wheel positioned to give an idea of the max. while it is shown with the unit length ways under the car, it can be use across the car as well.

Brian

Interesting!  I see you have a Lambda sensor so you are on EFI. J type overdrive. Rear brake disc and the calliper  looks like the same as mine on my TR5  (MGF)

and four pot front callipers, very tasty. I guess uprated engine!

Regards Harry

[Trumpy3]

Harry

Front calipers are Nissan Skyline R3 4 pot alloy. Rear are Nissan200sx Turbo. Picked them as the hand brake cable came off parallel to the axle and by shortening the two cables was able to use the standard TR hand brake set up. Yes it is EFI. ITB with sequential injection and wasted spark. Its not a hot rod but unrated as a good touring set up at 110HP at the rear wheels. Ford Escort MK2 Rack and pinion and my own camber kit that is adjustable with shims. Have also done a TR6 and TR5.

The car was a kit car when I purchased it ans was missing some vital parts (brakes etc). That set me off on my project when I retired. All good fun.

Brian