harrytr5 Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 This was explained to be normal "how else would it work!" Regards Harry IMG_2497.MOV Quote
stuart Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 34 minutes ago, harrytr5 said: This was explained to be normal "how else would it work!" Regards Harry IMG_2497.MOV Thats play in the diff not the shaft. Stuart. Quote
Z320 Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 (edited) 2 hours ago, stuart said: Thats play in the diff not the shaft. Stuart. I‘m with Stuart Play kn the shaft (or not) you see with the wheel fixed (on the ground) not with the wheel off Edited January 16 by Z320 Quote
trchris Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 That looks like there’s play in the outer cv to me (as well as diff ) Chris Quote
Z320 Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 OK, what has been discussed at the German forum? First of all, not discussed but what I don't like from the photos; the units are "proper" painted. But all surfaces are painted! Even those where the untis are bolted on the trailing arm and where the brake drum is fitted. This is wrong and can cause slack connections. On the forum there have been different issues (in short words): - making klonk-noises because the center nut was not tight enough - bearing faulty because it has been pressed in a all over (AND INSIDE) painted housing - stress for the bearing + poor bearing quality - only a minimum of way of travel (+/- 8 mm), enough for a modern car, but not for a TR - shaft sliding apart because of not enough way of travel - units have to be measured correctly to slide in and out the correct way on both sides, if needed shimmed - Limora sells distancers from 10 - 25 mm (35 - 65 €) - not possible to insert long wheel nuts without grinding a ditch in the housing or dismantle the units - possible: steel cable tie scretching inside the trailing arm My thought was, buying one, dismantle it, remove the paint, press a quality bearing in, install them correctly would be possible. But still having the risk to have a brake down out with the car on holiday - is not what I want. Ciao, Marco Quote
trchris Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 14 minutes ago, Z320 said: OK, what has been discussed at the German forum? First of all, not discussed but what I don't like from the photos; the units are "proper" painted. But all surfaces are painted! Even those where the untis are bolted on the trailing arm and where the brake drum is fitted. This is wrong and can cause slack connections. On the forum there have been different issues (in short words): - making klonk-noises because the center nut was not tight enough - bearing faulty because it has been pressed in a all over (AND INSIDE) painted housing - stress for the bearing + poor bearing quality - only a minimum of way of travel (+/- 8 mm), enough for a modern car, but not for a TR - shaft sliding apart because of not enough way of travel - units have to be measured correctly to slide in and out the correct way on both sides, if needed shimmed - Limora sells distancers from 10 - 25 mm (35 - 65 €) - not possible to insert long wheel nuts without grinding a ditch in the housing or dismantle the units - possible: steel cable tie scretching inside the trailing arm My thought was, buying one, dismantle it, remove the paint, press a quality bearing in, install them correctly would be possible. But still having the risk to have a brake down out with the car on holiday - is not what I want. Ciao, Marco Many thanks for the post Marco , l know you need to check things and can’t just bolt on and forget for me after reading your post and previous ones discussing cv jointed driveshafts I’ll keep original and buy a new hub Chris Chris Quote
Z320 Posted January 17 Report Posted January 17 I wanted to link the bearing thread but sadly this is written in German and all photos are hidden if you are not registered and not locked in…. Quote
DRD Posted January 17 Report Posted January 17 22 hours ago, trchris said: Has anyone got these to give a review? I’m just curious why they are such good value as the old saying “ cheap for a reason “ comes to mind . They probably are excellent value for money so any feedback would be appreciated as l have one rear hub with slight play and possibly needs replacement these maybe the way forward Chris I've ordered some so will give them a close scrutiny when I get them. If they look poor quality I'll send them back. Quote
15eren Posted January 17 Author Report Posted January 17 (edited) Hi all As a thread-starter I will have to make some things clear: The YouTube video in Z320-post is made by me. And it is not a video that shows the Mapco-shaft from Autodoc_shop. The video shows a CDD-shaft (Classic Driving Development) at a price four-times the Mapco-shafts from Autodoc_shop. The CDD-shafts had a lot of play resulting in clonk. I have removerd the boots on the CDD-shaft and can confirm that the play is definately in the splines and not the CV-joints. The new Mapco-shafts that I have now installed looks exactly the same but there is no play what so ever so I look forward to make my first drives when spring comes. Another difference between the Mapco-shafts and the CDD-shafts is that the Mapco-shafts have hubs made of steel instead of alloy. But I do not see that as a disadvantage. Cheers Tage Edited January 17 by 15eren Quote
Z320 Posted January 17 Report Posted January 17 20 minutes ago, DRD said: I've ordered some so will give them a close scrutiny when I get them. If they look poor quality I'll send them back. If you want to fit them, here is the instruction from Limora (for the case the shafts come without). There you find the distancers and order numbers. Quote
Z320 Posted January 17 Report Posted January 17 (edited) 22 minutes ago, 15eren said: Hi all As a thread-starter I will have to make some things clear: The YouTube video in Z320-post is made by me. And it is not a video that shows the Mapco-shaft from Autodoc_shop. The video shows a CDD-shaft (Classic Driving Development) at a price four-times the Mapco-shafts from Autodoc_shop. The CDD-shafts had a lot of play resulting in clonk. I have removerd the boots on the CDD-shaft and can confirm that the play is definately in the splines and not the CV-joints. The new Mapco-shafts that I have now installed looks exactly the same but there is no play what so ever so I look forward to make my first drives when spring comes. Another difference between the Mapco-shafts and the CDD-shafts is that the Mapco-shafts have hubs made of steel instead of aloy. But I do not see that as a disadvantage. Cheers Tage Hi Tage, good to know it is your video. This is the most interesting link to tthem at the TR-Freunde-Forum. https://tr-freun.de/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=17218&hilit=fag Translation should be no problem these days, to see the very intersiting photos you have to register and lock in. There are 2 other threads about, but they are endless and not much entertaining. Ciao, Marco Edited January 17 by Z320 Quote
dblenk Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Hi if its too good to be true then there is normally an issue i have a little play on one side on the hub bearing the other side is ok they are original 76 hubs i was thinking of new hubs as people say they are £360 a side from moss so these units look great the back end is next winters job so will monitor feed back on these and ready with a credit card it also replaces the original drive shaft i have as Marco said if on a long tour 2-3000 miles then you dont want any problems look forward to info David Quote
trchris Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 David you are in the same situation as me and l also have some doubts on the quality of these driveshafts for the price they are however that may be me being too cynical so I’m also , before l buy a new hub, waiting for some feedback although Marco has provided some . There’s been some discussion previously in the forum of some problems with cv jointed shafts so will sit on the fence a bit longer before making a final decision Chris Quote
dblenk Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 1 hour ago, trchris said: David you are in the same situation as me and l also have some doubts on the quality of these driveshafts for the price they are however that may be me being too cynical so I’m also , before l buy a new hub, waiting for some feedback although Marco has provided some . There’s been some discussion previously in the forum of some problems with cv jointed shafts so will sit on the fence a bit longer before making a final decision Chris yeah did my main bearings at xmas and thought treat the car to new bolts £10 from a TR company when i tightened them one didnt torque up just kept going i was lying under the car looking up thinking new engine i just stripped the block threads totally gutted like really gutted A friend said dont fit new bolts put the old ones back in so i did and tightened up great panic over although i have a spare engine yes cynical over quality these days would like a few more positives before i press the button David Quote
harlequin Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 I'm another who will have to climb down from the fence in the near future and spend money on hubs and drive shafts, Tag's post has certainly caused interest and I shall look forward to feedback. A friend has had problems with CV jointed drive shafts failing on his TR5 which is now resolved after twice replacing a shaft. The solution was somthing to do with the distance between the dif flange and the hub mounting point being slightly out of the acceptable range on one side, I believe he inserted a shim on the dif to shaft joint. George Quote
trchris Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 18 minutes ago, harlequin said: I'm another who will have to climb down from the fence in the near future and spend money on hubs and drive shafts, Tag's post has certainly caused interest and I shall look forward to feedback. A friend has had problems with CV jointed drive shafts failing on his TR5 which is now resolved after twice replacing a shaft. The solution was somthing to do with the distance between the dif flange and the hub mounting point being slightly out of the acceptable range on one side, I believe he inserted a shim on the dif to shaft joint. George Hi George l read about measuring this distance on a previous post and l wonder if others are aware about it ? I take it they will come with instructions detailing this otherwise there maybe some more failures. I hope we get some feedback before the offer ends. Chris Quote
RogerH Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Wasn't that the problem with the limora shafts. Roger Quote
harlequin Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 44 minutes ago, trchris said: Hi George l read about measuring this distance on a previous post and l wonder if others are aware about it ? I take it they will come with instructions detailing this otherwise there maybe some more failures. I hope we get some feedback before the offer ends. Chris I don't know the exact details, he was talking about it on a club night some time ago, but I very much doubt he missed anything in the instructions as he's an RAF aircraft mechanic George Quote
trchris Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Wasn’t there a post in the spring/ summer time regarding a wheel coming off a 6 that ran cv shafts? I don’t think we had a conclusion to it to know the cause . Does anyone know if the measurements are referenced in any information included with them? Roger not sure of the manufacturer that was being referenced Chris Quote
harrytr5 Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Chris for some reason he would not come back on here. Shame as we would all like to know as we have that kit on our TR,s. Regards Harry Quote
trchris Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Thanks Harry , that’s a shame there was no conclusion as it would have helped us all. Chris Quote
Z320 Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Who has those Limora / Mapco shafts on his TR, please? Quote
JohnC Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 Are the uprated splined shafts very out of favour? I know the originals used to bind, but only once they were pretty worn. My car did over 100k miles before that started to happen. Afraid my solution to that won't help anyone here as I have Datsun shafts (with ball bearing slides). They are still going strong 30yrs and 50k miles later. JC Quote
RogerH Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 Hi John, the uprated (quality) splined shafts are still very much in favour. It is the CV shafts that are the minority (but getting bigger) I think I have ever had one occasion where a shaft locked up. Roger0 Quote
wheeler Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 (edited) Autodoc free shipping and good price Bill Edited January 19 by wheeler Correction Quote
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