DRD Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 52 minutes ago, wheeler said: Autodoc free shipping and good price Bill Even cheaper now!! Quote
stuart Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 1 hour ago, wheeler said: Autodoc free shipping and good price Bill Blimey, looks like they cant give them away. Stuart. Quote
stuart Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 TBH my choice should I be looking to replace would still be these https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/fast-road-race-rear-hub-driveshaft-assembly-tr4a-6/ Stuart. Quote
Z320 Posted January 20 Report Posted January 20 Price up today again on 220 Euro, yesterday 189 Euro (?) on my Autodoc App. No experiments for me, I drive with Goodparts u-joint hubs with second hand uprated shafts from a friend (who swapped to Goodparts CV shafts) Quote
trchris Posted January 20 Report Posted January 20 Noticed prices are fluctuating anyone got any updates as yet? Chris Quote
DRD Posted January 20 Report Posted January 20 5 hours ago, trchris said: Noticed prices are fluctuating anyone got any updates as yet? Chris Well they just arived this afternoon. They look to be fine and have come from Germany but there are no instructions! I guess all I really need is the torque setting for the nut holding on the hub. Quote
charlie74 Posted January 20 Report Posted January 20 (edited) 177 ftlbs for the hub nut. I have a good summary of another forum members experiences installing these axles which is much more understandable than the supplied instructions but this forum will not let me upload the image. PM me if you would like them… Edited January 20 by charlie74 Quote
DRD Posted January 20 Report Posted January 20 44 minutes ago, charlie74 said: 177 ftlbs for the hub nut. I have a good summary of another forum members experiences installing these axles which is much more understandable than the supplied instructions but this forum will not let me upload the image. PM me if you would like them… Yes please, that would be great. Many thanks Darren Quote
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 (edited) 15 hours ago, DRD said: Well they just arived this afternoon. They look to be fine and have come from Germany but there are no instructions! I guess all I really need is the torque setting for the nut holding on the hub. Hi DRD, tell us more, please. It comes in pieces, the flange and the hub as a unit but off from the shaft? And without wheel studs pressed in? How does this work? All surfaces black painted or powder coated? Ciao, Marco Edited January 21 by Z320 more details in my questions Quote
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 Price this morning is 189,99 Euro each (this does not meen I recommend to buy them) Quote
trchris Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 2 hours ago, Z320 said: Price this morning is 189,99 Euro each (this does not meen I recommend to buy them) Hi Marco still showing £205 each here in uk don’t understand the price fluctuations and I’m still very undecided Chris Quote
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 190 Euro is via the App, via my computer it is 220 Quote
stuart Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 Possibly fluctuating due to exchange rates from wherever theyre buying them in from. Stuart. Quote
DRD Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 6 hours ago, Z320 said: Hi DRD, tell us more, please. It comes in pieces, the flange and the hub as a unit but off from the shaft? And without wheel studs pressed in? How does this work? All surfaces black painted or powder coated? Ciao, Marco Hi Marco, yes it comes in 2 boxes, one with the hub and the other with the driveshaft, no wheel studs. They seem well finished and are powder coated black. There is no detectable play in the actual drive shafts. Cheers Darren Quote
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Posted January 21 Darren, this is bling-bling, this mustn’t be painted and in no case powder coated. Galvanic zink coated, aluminium or browned would be the correct protected surface. Take a look at the original parts, their surface is correct Quote
DRD Posted January 22 Report Posted January 22 On 1/15/2026 at 12:00 PM, 15eren said: Hi George Yes they are fitted. Everything seems OK and no modifications needed. I have not been driving yet (winter in Denmark). The only difference to the more expensive alternatives seems to be that the hubs are made of steel instead of alloy. But I do not think that is a disadvantage - on the contrary. But as Roger writes, Autodoc_shop do not ship to the UK. Cheers Tage Hi Tage - did you have to grind any material off the trailing arms to get them to fit? Cheers Darren Quote
15eren Posted January 22 Author Report Posted January 22 Hi Darren No I did not have to grind the trailing arms. The steel bands that hold the rubber gaiters was 1-2 mm too high, but I flattened them with a hammer and then there was room enough in the trailing arms. Cheers Tage Quote
trchris Posted January 27 Report Posted January 27 Hi Darren have you managed to fit the driveshafts yet? Any feedback to share? Chris Quote
DRD Posted January 31 Report Posted January 31 On 1/27/2026 at 1:56 PM, trchris said: Hi Darren have you managed to fit the driveshafts yet? Any feedback to share? Chris Hi Chris, no I'll probably do it when it warms up a bit. Its a bit chilly in the garage at the moment. Cheers Darren Quote
trchris Posted March 14 Report Posted March 14 Hi Any updates regarding these cv jointed driveshafts ? Chris Quote
dblenk Posted March 14 Report Posted March 14 Darren sun is out we are all waiting hahaha maybe do a blog or a write up in the TRaction they certainly look nice and plenty sold so something must be good about them looking to sort mine next winter shutdown David Quote
JohnC Posted March 15 Report Posted March 15 I may be ill-informed, but I understood CV joints were designed to cope with a joint geometry that changes along two rotational axes, but with little extension. For example, a drive shaft on a front-engined, front-drive car with equal length wishbones. The TR axle isn't that. The geometry changes along one axis (around a horizontal axis as the wheel goes up and down) but the length of the axle varies every time the suspension moves. The double Hooke joint with splined shaft is ideally suited to this application. There are better implementations than Triumph's, for example the ball-bearing splines on the Datsun 120, but the concept is sound. New, original splined shafts do not lock up under load, from my own experience. I gather the same claims are made by suppliers of new "uprated" shafts. The UJs are as old and reliable as the hills. Why go for CV joints? JC Quote
Paul Hig Posted March 15 Report Posted March 15 11 minutes ago, JohnC said: I may be ill-informed, but I understood CV joints were designed to cope with a joint geometry that changes along two rotational axes, but with little extension. For example, a drive shaft on a front-engined, front-drive car with equal length wishbones. The TR axle isn't that. The geometry changes along one axis (around a horizontal axis as the wheel goes up and down) but the length of the axle varies every time the suspension moves. The double Hooke joint with splined shaft is ideally suited to this application. There are better implementations than Triumph's, for example the ball-bearing splines on the Datsun 120, but the concept is sound. New, original splined shafts do not lock up under load, from my own experience. I gather the same claims are made by suppliers of new "uprated" shafts. The UJs are as old and reliable as the hills. Why go for CV joints? JC Having lost a wheel at 70mph on the M6 due to failure of a "refurbished" UJ half shaft, I've fitted CV shafts (The shaft sheared between the bearing taper and threads). The CV's do not have these. Also the loads being put through CV units by a TR are only possibly half of the original design. The ones on my TR were designed for front drive Kia/Nissan cars putting out 300bhp with stearing loads as well, so putting 150(ish) bhp through rear wheels only, I feel is well with in design perameters, and I am sure these units will outlast me!! Quote
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