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Posted
52 minutes ago, wheeler said:

Autodoc free shipping and good price

BillScreenshot_20260119_111715.thumb.jpg.12dccf1dd57915ec7ec6e35b524fa110.jpg

Even cheaper now!!

Posted
1 hour ago, wheeler said:

Autodoc free shipping and good price

BillScreenshot_20260119_111715.thumb.jpg.12dccf1dd57915ec7ec6e35b524fa110.jpg

Blimey, looks like they cant give them away.

Stuart.

Posted

Price up today again on 220 Euro, yesterday 189 Euro (?) on my Autodoc App.

No experiments for me, I drive with Goodparts u-joint hubs with second hand uprated shafts from a friend (who swapped to Goodparts CV shafts)

Posted
5 hours ago, trchris said:

Noticed prices are fluctuating anyone got any updates as yet? 
Chris

Well they just arived this afternoon. They look to be fine and have come from Germany but there are no instructions! I guess all I really need is the torque setting for the nut holding on the hub.

Posted (edited)

177 ftlbs for the hub nut.  
 

I have a good summary of another forum members experiences installing these axles which is much more understandable than the supplied instructions but this forum will not let me upload the image.  PM me if you would like them…

 

Edited by charlie74
Posted
44 minutes ago, charlie74 said:

177 ftlbs for the hub nut.  
 

I have a good summary of another forum members experiences installing these axles which is much more understandable than the supplied instructions but this forum will not let me upload the image.  PM me if you would like them…

 

Yes please, that would be great. 

Many thanks Darren 

Posted

Trying again here for everyone’s benefit…

 

IMG_0193.png

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, DRD said:

Well they just arived this afternoon. They look to be fine and have come from Germany but there are no instructions! I guess all I really need is the torque setting for the nut holding on the hub.

Hi DRD,

tell us more, please.

It comes in pieces, the flange and the hub as a unit but off from the shaft?

And without wheel studs pressed in? How does this work?

All surfaces black painted or powder coated?

Ciao, Marco 

Edited by Z320
more details in my questions
Posted
2 hours ago, Z320 said:

Price this morning is 189,99 Euro each

(this does not meen I recommend to buy them)

Hi Marco still showing £205 each here in uk don’t understand the price fluctuations and I’m still very undecided 

Chris

Posted

Possibly fluctuating due to exchange rates from wherever theyre buying them in from.

Stuart.

Posted
6 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi DRD,

tell us more, please.

It comes in pieces, the flange and the hub as a unit but off from the shaft?

And without wheel studs pressed in? How does this work?

All surfaces black painted or powder coated?

Ciao, Marco 

Hi Marco, yes it comes in 2 boxes, one with the hub and the other with the driveshaft, no wheel studs. They seem well finished and are powder coated black. There is no detectable play in the actual drive shafts.

Cheers Darren

Posted

Darren,

this is bling-bling,

this mustn’t be painted and in no case powder coated.

Galvanic zink coated, aluminium or browned would be the correct protected surface.

Take a look at the original parts, their surface is correct

Posted
On 1/15/2026 at 12:00 PM, 15eren said:

Hi George

Yes they are fitted. Everything seems OK and no modifications needed. I have not been driving yet (winter in Denmark). The only difference to the more expensive alternatives seems to be that the hubs are made of steel instead of alloy. But I do not think that is a disadvantage - on the contrary. But as Roger writes, Autodoc_shop do not ship to the UK.

Cheers Tage

Hi Tage - did you have to grind any material off the trailing arms to get them to fit?

Cheers Darren

Posted

Hi Darren

No I did not have to grind the trailing arms. The steel bands that hold the rubber gaiters was 1-2 mm too high, but I flattened them with a hammer and then there was room enough in the trailing arms.

Cheers Tage

Posted
On 1/27/2026 at 1:56 PM, trchris said:

Hi Darren have you managed to fit the driveshafts yet? Any feedback to share?
Chris

Hi Chris, no I'll probably do it when it warms up a bit. Its a bit chilly in the garage at the moment. 

Cheers Darren 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Darren

sun is out we are all waiting hahaha

maybe do a blog or a write up in the TRaction

they certainly look nice and plenty sold so something must be good about them

looking to sort mine next winter shutdown

David

Posted

I may be ill-informed, but I understood CV joints were designed to cope with a joint geometry that changes along two rotational axes, but with little extension. For example, a drive shaft on a front-engined, front-drive car with equal length wishbones. The TR axle isn't that. The geometry changes along one axis (around a horizontal axis as the wheel goes up and down) but the length of the axle varies every time the suspension moves. The double Hooke joint with splined shaft is ideally suited to this application. There are better implementations than Triumph's, for example the ball-bearing splines on the Datsun 120, but the concept is sound. New, original splined shafts  do not lock up under load, from my own experience. I gather the same claims are made by suppliers of new "uprated" shafts. The UJs are as old and reliable as the hills. Why go for CV joints?

JC

Posted
11 minutes ago, JohnC said:

I may be ill-informed, but I understood CV joints were designed to cope with a joint geometry that changes along two rotational axes, but with little extension. For example, a drive shaft on a front-engined, front-drive car with equal length wishbones. The TR axle isn't that. The geometry changes along one axis (around a horizontal axis as the wheel goes up and down) but the length of the axle varies every time the suspension moves. The double Hooke joint with splined shaft is ideally suited to this application. There are better implementations than Triumph's, for example the ball-bearing splines on the Datsun 120, but the concept is sound. New, original splined shafts  do not lock up under load, from my own experience. I gather the same claims are made by suppliers of new "uprated" shafts. The UJs are as old and reliable as the hills. Why go for CV joints?

JC

Having lost a wheel at 70mph on the M6 due to failure of a "refurbished" UJ half shaft, I've fitted CV shafts (The shaft sheared between the bearing taper and threads). The CV's do not have these. Also the loads being put through CV units by a TR are only possibly half of the original design. The ones on my TR were designed for front drive Kia/Nissan cars putting out 300bhp with stearing loads as well, so putting 150(ish) bhp through rear wheels only, I feel is well with in design perameters, and I am sure these units will outlast me!!

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