Rear drive shaft

[jerrytr5]

Let us not confuse driveshafts with hub bearings. As JC points out, nothing wrong with original halfshafts original or rebuilt. 

I don't believe rear hubs (which I think Paul is referring to) should be rebuilt due to the stresses involved in separating the hub from the shaft.

Jerry

[JohnC]

23 hours ago, Paul Hig said:

(The shaft sheared between the bearing taper and threads)

That's a failure of the hub. Nothing to do with the half shaft. Was the hub refurbished? Plenty of advice on this forum on the inadvisability of that. If it was the half shaft that was refurbished then I don't understand the connection.

JC

[RogerH]

Stub axle within the hub failure.

CV Replacement is one way to go.
or new OEM style hub (Moss or bastuk)

 

Roger

[stuart]

21 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Stub axle within the hub failure.

CV Replacement is one way to go.
or new OEM style hub (Moss or bastuk)

 

Roger

Or even better new Quaife hubs https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/fast-road-race-rear-hub-assembly-tr4a-6/

Stuart.

[Paul Hig]

2 hours ago, JohnC said:

That's a failure of the hub. Nothing to do with the half shaft. Was the hub refurbished? Plenty of advice on this forum on the inadvisability of that. If it was the half shaft that was refurbished then I don't understand the connection.

JC

Previous thread about this here 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Paul,

that pic shows the hub section of the drive shaft has pulled out because the stub axle was broken.

 

Roger 

[JohnC]

I suspect we're just suffering a little confusion over definitions. Here's where I'm coming from:

The half shaft, on a car with the original setup, consists of two sections connected by longitudinal, parallel, sliding splined joint and with a UJ at the inner and outer end.

The hub has a UJ on its inner end and a plate with four studs, for either a wheel or a splined adapter, on its outer end. Simply speaking, the UJ is the inner end of a stub axle which is connected to the plate by a tapered splined joint, and held there by a dirty great nut tightened up lots.

So, when I read "half shaft failure", I understand something broke in the sliding unit and its associated UJs.

I stand by my point that the original half-shaft design is fine unless worn. CV joints work, and I daresay they are plenty strong enough, but  they are a choice not an upgrade. And even with CV joints, don't you still have the same stub axle arrangement? Genuine question - I assume you do but I've never held one. I gather they can come with an "uprated" hub, but then so can a regular half shaft. That's where I'd put my money. I really don't want a stub axle failure!

JC

[rcreweread]

4 hours ago, JohnC said:

I suspect we're just suffering a little confusion over definitions. Here's where I'm coming from:

The half shaft, on a car with the original setup, consists of two sections connected by longitudinal, parallel, sliding splined joint and with a UJ at the inner and outer end.

The hub has a UJ on its inner end and a plate with four studs, for either a wheel or a splined adapter, on its outer end. Simply speaking, the UJ is the inner end of a stub axle which is connected to the plate by a tapered splined joint, and held there by a dirty great nut tightened up lots.

So, when I read "half shaft failure", I understand something broke in the sliding unit and its associated UJs.

I stand by my point that the original half-shaft design is fine unless worn. CV joints work, and I daresay they are plenty strong enough, but  they are a choice not an upgrade. And even with CV joints, don't you still have the same stub axle arrangement? Genuine question - I assume you do but I've never held one. I gather they can come with an "uprated" hub, but then so can a regular half shaft. That's where I'd put my money. I really don't want a stub axle failure!

JC

John  - I'm glad you clarified this because as far as I know, I've never heard of a TR IRS half shaft ( or driveshaft , same thing) breaking. Apart from replacing worn UJs on the ends of the driveshaft, you can't recondition a driveshaft - once the splines wear, and if you can feel anything other than minimal play in the splined joints when you twist them is opposite directions, then they are scrap. Best replacements are the blue Rislan coated ones from Proptech in Kidderminster if you want to stick with the original set up

Cheers Rich

[stuart]

3 hours ago, rcreweread said:

John  - I'm glad you clarified this because as far as I know, I've never heard of a TR IRS half shaft ( or driveshaft , same thing) breaking. Apart from replacing worn UJs on the ends of the driveshaft, you can't recondition a driveshaft - once the splines wear, and if you can feel anything other than minimal play in the splined joints when you twist them is opposite directions, then they are scrap. Best replacements are the blue Rislan coated ones from Proptech in Kidderminster if you want to stick with the original set up

Cheers Rich

Au contraire Im afraid. Pictures sent to me a while ago by Niall. New supplied shafts (Not Proptech) snapped due to poor welding.

Stuart.

[RogerH]

I can weld like that 

I like the way they have struck an arc on the male fitting to make it a better fit in the female - or am I being cynical 

 

Roger

[rcreweread]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

Au contraire Im afraid. Pictures sent to me a while ago by Niall. New supplied shafts (Not Proptech) snapped due to poor welding.

Stuart.

I reckon those are the £99 ones made in China which I wouldn't touch with a barge pole - I was referring to original units, your honour!!

Cheers Rich

[RogerH]

Looking at the picture of the interesting weld reminded me of an occasion at British Airways.

My department was sited next to a gas 'boiler' room that had a very tall chimney apprx 30mtr.
In a reasonable gale in the early 2000's we heard a crunch and looked out to see the chimney laying horizontal on the ground.
 

The steel chimney had been made in sections in Germany.  Where it failed was a circumferencial weld.
Being in NDT a queue of experts formed to assess the failure.

Just like above it had a beautiful weld bead and was stuck to one side of the pipe. Sadly it was not stuck to the other side of the pipe.
and that is why it was lying on the ground. 

Even I can get both sides stuck together.

 

Roger

Edited March 17 by RogerH

[harrytr5]

Love the spelling Roger

How is the IWE tickets selling? 

If no IWE this year I am off.

Regards Harry

[RogerH]

Hi Harry

not sure where those spelling mistakes came from  sorted now.

The IWE this year is the Car Club Fest and I believe it is gathering apace nicely 

 

Roger

[trchris]

So to resume this post I’m about to buy the cv jointed driveshafts from Autodoc as l see the price is still competitive and will report on them in due course 

Chris

[PriceLes]

I elected to get the R200 differential CV half shafts from Good Parts in the USA. 
The original universal jointed items were probably not that bad but there was some clicking coming out of small roundabouts on a steady throttle. (No noise if done with the clutch pedal in) so perhaps the splines were a little worn and binding slightly under engine load in that situation. The possibility even if remote of a hub flange and wheel parting company was enough of an incentive. I chose the GP items not only for their excellent reputation in general but the only option as far as a bolt up with the (VLSD) R200. 

[charlie74]

My impression of these axles (Limora) so far this driving season is favourable so far indeed.  I had been meaning to contribute to this thread for a while now but wanted to put enough miles on them to make it (somewhat) meaningful.  It has only been about 150 so far but since my car averages probably a bit less than 500/season it could be a while before I reach the x000’s mark.

If anyone wants to see the documentation of the my project from last winter it is available here (https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/rear-end-refresh.2149503/).

I elected to purchase these axles because there was some good feedback about them and the price point fit my budget better.  Maybe if it was just the axles I was doing the GP offerings would have been attainable but I had other things to put my budget towards.

Anyway, they are smooth, quiet in corners and the power seems to be put down a bit better than with the original equipment.  I don’t have a way of documenting that except by “feel” so take it for what it’s worth.  Best of all though is that there is no outer universal joint greasing anymore! (or probability of failure…)

No doubt Richard Good offers quality products and has many happy customers, deservedly so.  I have a few of his offerings on my car but in this case I am satisfied that I made a decision that will serve me well.

YMMV but I am comfortable recommending them,

best, 

C74

Edited April 27 by charlie74

[dblenk]

6 hours ago, trchris said:

So to resume this post I’m about to buy the cv jointed driveshafts from Autodoc as l see the price is still competitive and will report on them in due course 

Chris

Chris

Look forward to your thoughts

[trchris]

So shafts ordered but l thought I’d bring to everyone’s attention that there was just over 1 inch (both sides) more  drop when the telescopic shock absorbers were fitted,  than the now lever arms, which is where I believe a problem exists if the wheels are allowed to part company with the road surface or an extremely deep pot hole allowing the inner tripod joint to pop out. I shall fit these and check with full drop of trailing arm ( against bump stop) and make sure tripod joint hasn’t popped. I will of course update when fitted 

Chris

Edited April 28 by trchris