Dale Moore Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 From what I gather, the holes in his new hubs are already drilled 3/8 Dale Quote
Magz Posted January 18 Author Report Posted January 18 17 minutes ago, Dale Moore said: From what I gather, the holes in his new hubs are already drilled 3/8 Dale Yes, new hubs are already 3/8. Quote
Magz Posted January 18 Author Report Posted January 18 4 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: Mags, the photo shows the “blocks” that Mick referred to which some of the studs are threaded in to. As you can see, they are very marginal for wall thickness if drilled out further. Take great care. Dave McD I have found a local machine shop that says they can put the trailing arms on their milling machine and do the precision drilling and re-threading for a nominal cost. I'm taking them there tomorrow to check them out, with the Goodparts instructions in hand! Although I'm doing all the rest of the rear work, including MIG welding the diff mount reinforcements (first time welding!), I feel this part might be best farmed out. I'll update when it's done. Quote
RogerH Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Hi Magz, If you have not MIG welded before then either a great deal of practice before hand or get somebody else to do it. Roger Quote
Magz Posted January 18 Author Report Posted January 18 Just now, RogerH said: Hi Magz, If you have not MIG welded before then either a great deal of practice before hand or get somebody else to do it. Roger Yes, I plan to practice on some scrap first. If I screw that up consistently then it's time for a pro! I figure welding will be a good skill to acquire for future work such as custom brackets and what-not. Quote
Kenrow Posted January 18 Report Posted January 18 Are you members of your local club, maybe someone has the jig already? Quote
JohnC Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 (edited) 12 hours ago, Magz said: I have found a local machine shop that says they can put the trailing arms on their milling machine and do the precision drilling and re-threading for a nominal cost. I'm taking them there tomorrow to check them out, with the Goodparts instructions in hand! Although I'm doing all the rest of the rear work, including MIG welding the diff mount reinforcements (first time welding!), I feel this part might be best farmed out. I'll update when it's done. Just a thought, but is it possible to use a stepped stud - 3/8"UNC one end and 5/16"UNF the other? That would avoid the need to risk scrapping a TA by accident. JC Edited January 19 by JohnC Unnecessary verbage Quote
Z320 Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 (edited) Allow me to say what I think since Thursday: it the disc brake set requiers 3/8“ studs - it is drilled wrong. Perhaps of the wrong conculsion, because IMO the trailing arm is the limiting factor, not the studs. I have seen stepped studs the other way round for retapped threads. But they are cut on the lathe and with a die and no longer rolled, making them weaker than a 5/16 stud. Edited January 19 by Z320 Quote
Magz Posted February 22 Author Report Posted February 22 (edited) To provide some closure to this thread, the trailing arms are drilled, tapped and the new 3/8" ARP studs installed. The bracket for the disk brake calipers slides on very snugly over the studs. BTW, after some practice and fiddling with flux core vs Argon/CO2 (Ar/CO2 wins), voltage, wire feed rates and technique, the welding of the diff supports is looking good, too! Edited February 22 by Magz Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 (edited) Just an update on the diff support reinforcements. The supports have been boxed in, and I welded in a 6-piece TSI frame reinforcement kit to box in the front and rear diff bridges and reinforce the spring towers. All the area under the rear of the car was degreased, prepped with POR Metal-Ready and coated with POR-15. After this, I'll do some undercoating with the 3M rubberized product, then reassembly begins...warm weather is approaching here in the Eastern US! Edited March 25 by Magz Quote
RogerH Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 Hi Magz, you are progressing well. Rather than the 3M Rubbery coating consider using on of the thinner waxy products. You can easily keep an eye on what is happening under the wax coating. The Rubbery coating makes it invisible. Roger Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 4 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Magz, you are progressing well. Rather than the 3M Rubbery coating consider using on of the thinner waxy products. You can easily keep an eye on what is happening under the wax coating. The Rubbery coating makes it invisible. Roger Hmmm...good point, although the waxy products may not provide as much protection against chipping as the rubbery ones. Funny that the front of the car already has a see-through undercoating consisting of engine and gear oil that has leaked over the years...it's actually done a great job keeping it rust-free! Quote
RogerH Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 That is the built in TRiumph anti-corrosion coating. Roger Quote
stuart Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 11 minutes ago, Magz said: Hmmm...good point, although the waxy products may not provide as much protection against chipping as the rubbery ones. Funny that the front of the car already has a see-through undercoating consisting of engine and gear oil that has leaked over the years...it's actually done a great job keeping it rust-free! But thats the point, the rubbery ones do tend to dry out and a stone will actually chip them easily then and the water then gets underneath and the rust quietly eats its way round unseen beneath the coating. Similar problem to powder coating. The liquid protection does creep and so often recovers damaged areas. Stuart. Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 42 minutes ago, stuart said: But thats the point, the rubbery ones do tend to dry out and a stone will actually chip them easily then and the water then gets underneath and the rust quietly eats its way round unseen beneath the coating. Similar problem to powder coating. The liquid protection does creep and so often recovers damaged areas. Stuart. Then what about just leaving it in POR-15? If there are chips they can easily be touched up, and it seems the wax isn't a very tough barrier anyway. Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 If I was to use a waxy undercoat, which product would you recommend? Availability in the US is a bonus! Quote
RogerH Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 Hi Magz here are a selection of UK popular wax type coatings. I prefer the Dinatrol but there are quite a few to use. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Dinatrol+3125&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4624852.m570.l1313 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Waxoyl+clear&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4624852.m570.l1313 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=bilt+hamber+dynax+uc&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311&_odkw=Waxoyl+clear&_osacat=0 Roger Quote
stuart Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 41 minutes ago, Magz said: If I was to use a waxy undercoat, which product would you recommend? Availability in the US is a bonus! You could always do what the old boys back in the day would do. Every time they changed the oil they would spray the underneath of the car with it. As youve already noted the front end has zero rust through oil spray! Stuart. Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 There are several Dynatrol products listed. Which one do you prefer for this application? Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 2 minutes ago, stuart said: You could always do what the old boys back in the day would do. Every time they changed the oil they would spray the underneath of the car with it. As youve already noted the front end has zero rust through oil spray! Stuart. Also something I was thinking but it seemed too easy to be useful... 😉 Quote
Magz Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 3 minutes ago, Magz said: There are several Dynatrol products listed. Which one do you prefer for this application? Ah nevermind...I see your search was for the 3125. Thanks, again! Quote
RogerH Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 Hi Magz my prefference is the 3125. The aerosol has a longish spout and sprays well. Roger Quote
PodOne Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 (edited) 1 hour ago, Magz said: If I was to use a waxy undercoat, which product would you recommend? Availability in the US is a bonus! POR 15 Chassis Black - two coats as tough as it gets. Internal coating of cavity wax plus a external clear wax Edited March 25 by PodOne Quote
Kenrow Posted March 26 Report Posted March 26 I really like this product for undercoating. You can vary the texture and it is tough as nails. Available in the US… SEM 5200 SEM 5200 Application Quote
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