Accelerator Pedal Installation

[My Dads Car]

At the risk of sounding incompetent... I am at a loss as to how to attach the bearing covers for the accelerator pedal on my TR4A. I didn't do the teardown of the car so I have no recent memory; but I do recall from years past one of the bearing covers is on the engine side of the body while the other cover is in the passenger compartment- correct?

Moss provides 8 self-tapping screws to secure both bearings in place. My confusion is the screws tap into the body fine (driven in from the engine side) but this only secures the engine side bracket. The bracket in the passenger compartment is completely loose...

Do both brackets go on the engine side and then get screwed into the body?

All replies are much appreciated! 

Jamie

(Update - yes... I see it now, both brackets go in on the engine side... rookie mistake!)

Edited February 3 by My Dads Car

[RogerH]

Hi Jamie

have a look at this Moss WebCat pic

I think it becomes obvious when you see the items involved.
One plate goes on the engine side. The bearing fits in its hollow and then the shaft, complete with the other half
of the plate goes through the bearing.  And then the two halves are screwed together through the body metal work.
Using   4 self tapers

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/accelerator-pedal-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67-tr24--20--05--01

 

Roger

 

[rcreweread]

2 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Jamie

have a look at this Moss WebCat pic

I think it becomes obvious when you see the items involved.
One plate goes on the engine side. The bearing fits in its hollow and then the shaft, complete with the other half
of the plate goes through the bearing.  And then the two halves are screwed together through the body metal work.
Using   4 self tapers

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/accelerator-pedal-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67-tr24--20--05--01

 

Roger

 

The confusing bit is that the self tappers ( 4 of them) go through from the engine bay so pick up that bracket , and then go into the inside bracket with the nylon bush in between also clamping the the the bodywork in the middle

Cheers Rich 

[Ralph Whitaker]

19 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Jamie

have a look at this Moss WebCat pic

I think it becomes obvious when you see the items involved.
One plate goes on the engine side. The bearing fits in its hollow and then the shaft, complete with the other half
of the plate goes through the bearing.  And then the two halves are screwed together through the body metal work.
Using   4 self tapers

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/accelerator-pedal-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67-tr24--20--05--01

 

Roger

 

 

16 hours ago, rcreweread said:

The confusing bit is that the self tappers ( 4 of them) go through from the engine bay so pick up that bracket , and then go into the inside bracket with the nylon bush in between also clamping the the the bodywork in the middle

Cheers Rich 

Don`t quite see how that would work because surely the self tappers are designed for the thin bodywork otherwise it would need small nuts and bolts to clamp the bodywork inbetween. And you cannot rotate the two halves 90 degtrees to use 8 self tappers because as soon as one plate is secured the ends of the screws would prevent the second plate sitting flush. No, I am sure that on my car both halves are fitted from the engine bay side using only 4 screws. I will check when I get chance.

Ralph

[david ferry]

8 self tapping screws as Jamie's car is likely LHD - two sets of plates and bearings.

David

[Chilliman]

2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

No, I am sure that on my car both halves are fitted from the engine bay side using only 4 screws. I will check when I get chance.

Correct - as are mine

[RogerH]

3 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

 

Don`t quite see how that would work because surely the self tappers are designed for the thin bodywork otherwise it would need small nuts and bolts to clamp the bodywork inbetween. And you cannot rotate the two halves 90 degtrees to use 8 self tappers because as soon as one plate is secured the ends of the screws would prevent the second plate sitting flush. No, I am sure that on my car both halves are fitted from the engine bay side using only 4 screws. I will check when I get chance.

Ralph

That is interesting.Having both plates on the same side of the body panel would make them easier to fit.

[stuart]

Just checked mine and my early TR4 and they have the two plates on the engine bay side i.e. back to back with the plastic bush sandwiched between secured by screws to the bulkhead that have a thread similar to acme screws. 2BA head size.

Stuart.

 

[My Dads Car]

On 2/4/2026 at 6:04 AM, RogerH said:

Hi Jamie

have a look at this Moss WebCat pic

I think it becomes obvious when you see the items involved.
One plate goes on the engine side. The bearing fits in its hollow and then the shaft, complete with the other half
of the plate goes through the bearing.  And then the two halves are screwed together through the body metal work.
Using   4 self tapers

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/accelerator-pedal-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67-tr24--20--05--01

 

Roger

 

Thank you, Roger. I've been using that as a guide- it's been very helpful except for this one point.

Jamie

[My Dads Car]

8 hours ago, stuart said:

Just checked mine and my early TR4 and they have the two plates on the engine bay side i.e. back to back with the plastic bush sandwiched between secured by screws to the bulkhead that have a thread similar to acme screws. 2BA head size.

Stuart.

 

Thanks, Stuart. Yes- that is how they attach, I see it clearly now.

Your photo brings up another point: your lever is held in place to the shaft by a cotter (split) pin. The diagram, and what was on the car before, is a pin that fits snugly and must be driven in (but delicately...) with a hammer. I'm guessing the pin eliminates any extraneous play between the lever and the shaft, but a cotter pin would be easier to install, and remove, if needed. 

Any thoughts on the difference between the two options of regular pin vs split pin?

-Jamie

[RogerH]

Hi Jamie

the correct pin is stronger and has no slop.

 

Roger

[stuart]

13 hours ago, My Dads Car said:

Thanks, Stuart. Yes- that is how they attach, I see it clearly now.

Your photo brings up another point: your lever is held in place to the shaft by a cotter (split) pin. The diagram, and what was on the car before, is a pin that fits snugly and must be driven in (but delicately...) with a hammer. I'm guessing the pin eliminates any extraneous play between the lever and the shaft, but a cotter pin would be easier to install, and remove, if needed. 

Any thoughts on the difference between the two options of regular pin vs split pin?

-Jamie

Mine has a split pin as the arm is mounted at a different angle to allow it work the Dellorto linkage, I couldnt get a pin in there easily.

Stuart.

 

[roy53]

I did that once for easiness but the split pin metal was too soft and sheared.

Although it was on webers with very strong return springs 

Roy

[Lebro]

What about using an "R" pin ?

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Lebro said:

What about using an "R" pin ?

Would need to be a fair size to get over the boss of the arm so probably would interfere then or in that size be too thick a wire size to go through the hole.

Stuart.