Paulr2 Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 The brake master cylinder is leaking at the brake pipe union. As shown in the video I am unable to tighten or loosen the union. Any suggestions gratefully received My only plan is to cut the brake pipe & use a socket to remove the union, then replace the pipe run down to the 5 way splitter. If this is the only option I'd rather not have a shiny new copper pipe but try to match the existing which look like, but probably aren't steel. Any idea if such a thing is available? Thx in advance Paul 1000025059.mp4 Quote
Chilliman Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 A 7/16" crowfoot could be your friend here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144611317664?itmmeta=01KJFG8FBH6Z7NNPM7ZCAD82WR&hash=item21ab8197a0%3Ag%3A4cwAAOSwyDJisDEk&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAAwDKQclQvzFwZQpmMrsO4LuqW2RpXumZS9qOVcDZT7GnHUQIclgPJlQ5b3qqpAbliRj86J2GSWJeJigDs3pmNZ%2F9Vs7I2moaUP55cvFdfYdbmcgyjnEU1ZJAF9Sg%2BUsOhWVeYXHSr3U885FOUg6FvMMPDZcIB8N3VveaHAEVKwZ2nsWM0dfoIjF17KHeQ4hSqDXVAItn1YvImaE9dkuk6GiogBPnU97Y19dclpDIiWSc7smNhy6nIZyz50g3u5wnFeA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_T1ofCTZw&var=443861958814 Quote
RogerH Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 Hi Paul, you could use a Cunifer/Kunifer pipe. These are more bronzy than the Copper pipes and are usually left dull. When you get the pipe out (and if you plan to use the MC) then inspect the collet seat for corrosion. If it is less than perfect consider a new MC. Roger Quote
Paulr2 Posted February 27 Author Report Posted February 27 Thx both I'll gives John's crowfoot wrench a go to start with Paul Quote
stuart Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 Steel pipe is available if you want to go that route but it would need a coat of lacquer to stop corrosion Stuart. Quote
Chilliman Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 10 minutes ago, Paulr2 said: I'll gives John's crowfoot wrench a go to start with There are some specific open end brake spanners available as well Paul which slide over the pipe & grip 4 of the flats like the crowfoot. Quote
rcreweread Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 Paul - if you find you need a new master cylinder, I have a few original Girling ones available which have been refurbished by Past Parts PM me if interested cheers Rich C-R Quote
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 (edited) We had a couple of rolls of different sized Kunifer zinc plated to gain the look of steel pipes and the flexibility and corrosion resistance of the Cupro-nickel tube. Copper pipes always look a bit steam punk. Look and work perfectly. Edited February 27 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote
Lebro Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 (edited) 3 hours ago, Chilliman said: There are some specific open end brake spanners available as well Paul which slide over the pipe & grip 4 of the flats like the crowfoot. +1 I have a set of those, & they work Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145482558264 Bob Edited February 27 by Lebro Quote
Z320 Posted February 27 Report Posted February 27 4 hours ago, Lebro said: +1 I have a set of those, & they work Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145482558264 Bob That’s the correct tool Quote
Jase Posted March 1 Report Posted March 1 I think I would just replace all of it, I'd pick up a reconditioned cylinder (while he still has some) from Richard Crewe-Read and replace the complete pipe. You know it's right then, you can always recondition the old one and keep as a spare. Quote
Malbaby Posted March 1 Report Posted March 1 As "Jase" suggested....Your master cylinder has a lot of corrosion...Replace the M/C together with new quality brake line....Just cut the pipe is the quickest removal. Quote
John Morrison Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 Looking at your original photo Paul, I'm pretty sure that even if you get the nut to turn, it will only twist and break the pipe, I think your only real shot at this is, at minimum a ne wpipe, and very probobly good advice to swith the M/C as well. John. Quote
Schnippel Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 Hello, all of this needs to be replaced immediately. It's more than surprising that this condition wasn't flagged during the last TÜV inspection. I'm constantly amazed at the appalling state of the brake hydraulics on these vehicles. Regards, Ralf Quote
john.r.davies Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 14 minutes ago, Schnippel said: Hello, all of this needs to be replaced immediately. It's more than surprising that this condition wasn't flagged during the last TÜV inspection. I'm constantly amazed at the appalling state of the brake hydraulics on these vehicles. Regards, Ralf Ralf, That is cruel! These cars are at least fifty years old - I don't know how old you are, but if you have as many years as that, I'll bet you don't work as well as when you were brand new! John Quote
Andy Moltu Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 Could you not sacrifice the union? Then remake the union with a hand held flaring tool and a new end? You could use mole grips to get it off and then just cut off the flare or cut the flush and put a socket over the union but that leaves a slightly shorter pipe if you have enough slack in the existing pipe to do so. Quote
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 Is it me or does there look like fluid oozing from the union nut to pipe joint of the clutch master also? Or was the photo taken after a dose of penetrating oil was applied to assist tightening? Quote
stuart Posted March 3 Report Posted March 3 21 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Is it me or does there look like fluid oozing from the union nut to pipe joint of the clutch master also? Or was the photo taken after a dose of penetrating oil was applied to assist tightening? It doesnt look good, I would be replacing all of the pipes and unions at the very least. Stuart. Quote
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