Stuck bolt, suggestions?

[adriantr4]

Hello 

The attached shows a rear bumper bolt which runs through the chassis, and refuses to come quietly. After some effort I can rotate it by applying some force, despite application of a club hammer or my biggest G-clamp, and plenty of plus-gas fluid. It's stuck in there, in a tube I think.

I got the other one out  (pictured), with only the average struggle. The upside is that I am leaving the bumpers off.

But any ideas?

Thanks, Adrian 

 

[iain]

Liberal and frequent application of diesel with a syringe. Keep testing it every 24 hrs with luck it will eventually free.

[TR4Tony VC]

Can you get a nut splitter onto the end and break the nut open ? If so that’s the easiest route ….

[Charlie D]

Adrian,

Are you saying that the nut is off and the bolt is stuck in the tube, rather than you can't get the nut off?

Charlie

 

[stuart]

Plenty of easing oil around it, maybe belt it back in again to help get some lube into the chassis tube then a big pair of stilsons with a tyre lever under the head of the bolt, so turn and lever at the same time.

Stuart.

[adriantr4]

Hi

Thanks for suggestions 

I can rotate the bolt (with effort), and the nut at the other end is free.

But I can't get the bolt out of it's tube, despite application of club hammer via a long bar, or G-clamp on the nut end. I also adapted a pry bar to fit under the bolt head. 

I imagine if the frame was separated from the chassis, and perhaps the chassis on its side, then massively heating it then bashing it with a very heavy hammer would shift it.

I think there is a bit of corrosion on the bolt/tube, hence there's a lip which is holding it.

Cheers, Adrian 

[adriantr4]

Thanks Stewart. Understood.

Adrian 

[stuart]

1 minute ago, adriantr4 said:

Hi

Thanks for suggestions 

I can rotate the bolt (with effort), and the nut at the other end is free.

But I can't get the bolt out of it's tube, despite application of club hammer via a long bar, or G-clamp on the nut end. I also adapted a pry bar to fit under the bolt head. 

I imagine if the frame was separated from the chassis, and perhaps the chassis on its side, then massively heating it then bashing it with a very heavy hammer would shift it.

I think there is a bit of corrosion on the bolt/tube, hence there's a lip which is holding it.

Cheers, Adrian 

Be careful with belting the bolt in the tube as I have seen the chassis distorted by trying that approach. Heat wouldnt really help either as you cant heat the tube unless you cut an access hole in the bottom side of the chassis and got the heat directly in on the tube. The trick with a big pair of stilsons means you can get more leverage turning round and round.

Stuart.

[harlequin]

I have had some luck removing stuck bolts by vibrating the bolt, I do this by fitting a stub of 3/8" rod into a hammer drill and with the stub against the bolt give it a good rattling and plenty of easing oil

George

[Andy Moltu]

If you have access to an air ratchet or wheel gun could you use that to spin the bolt whilst tapping from the end?

[adriantr4]

Thanks to all posters, some good suggestions.

Let's leave this, and I'll report back in a few weeks. Hopefully in the positive!

Regards, Adrian & TR4 

[adriantr4]

Success!

As suggested by Stewart, I hit it to move it in and out, plus applications of freeing oil. Eventually, hitting the nut end while heaving the bolt head round and round freed it up, and it slowly conceded. Both bolts show signs of a bit of corrosion, but not too bad. With both on the bench I cleaned them up for possible reuse as bumper bolts.

In the end I used a releasing product called Bulldog BDX, which is well liked by the team who write Practical Classics. The stuff is pretty good in my opinion - but no connection, etc.

Again, thanks to all. Perseverance won the day, and that's another job ticked off.

Adrian