Rear Valence, and wing attachment bolts

[dave bailey]

Good morning Forumites.

Has anyone experience/advice on cutting out the holes in the rear valence. Is it just a case of marking out a suitable size rectangle, and cutting out, or should there be some form of bending or shaping of the edges. (It is of course already shaped for the cut-out)

A bit of an 'anorak' question. Looking at the outer rear wing 'bolts'. Moss offer a choice between the 5/8ths bolt at 28P each, and the 3/4in. at  £1.40.each.! They are both 1/4in. diameter. There are plenty of similar Acme/Spire bolts on the internet of different lengths at cheap prices, the only difference being that the Moss item has the Acme square thread, whereas the ones on the internet all seem to be screw type threads, (although they are pointed and would be easier to locate in the hole.). Any reason why I shouldn't use the ones from the internet?.

Thanks.

Dave.

[stuart]

Buy the wing fitting kits from TR Shop and they have all the correct nuts/bolts/clips you need. Not expensive either. Makes life a lot easier.

With regards to the back panel have you actually tried it to see if it fits first of all as a lot of the repros dont!

To cut the holes for the irons then you would need to cut a hole just slightly smaller than the flat portions of the pre-made deperssions and then carefully curve the return inwards. Also make sure that everything lines up with a pair of bumper irons through and onto the chassis as very often they dont and end up touching the panel or worse.

Dont forget the two holes for the reversing lights too.

I did have to alter the holes on the back of a TR5 years ago that just had a flat panel with holes cut, no return at all.

see picture below.

Stuart.

 

 

Edited March 4 by stuart

[RogerH]

Hi Dave,

 as you can see in Stuarts two pics, the return on the inner edges do not need to be big.
Smaller is easier to dress down - 3 or 4mm would work.

 

Roger

[rcreweread]

Here are a couple of photos of some original "holes" on a 1965  TR4A - note they are not the same size - the outer one is larger

Cheers Rich

[dave bailey]

Thanks, I'll give the TR Shop a ring about the fasteners.

I'm happy about cutting the holes now, but I didn't realise that the holes are different sizes! As you can see from my photo, the depressions for the cut outs look to be the same size, but having just measured them the outer ones are about 5mm wider. Not as different though as your TR4A photos  Richard, I don't really see why they have to be different.

I can see that I'm going to 'have fun' getting all this lot to line up, basically juggling with the outer wings/rear valance/boot lid gaps/rear light housing, bearing in mind that I don't have a boot floor or sides in place. Ah well, if it was easy, I suppose everyone would be doing it!

Dave.

[stuart]

1 hour ago, dave bailey said:

Thanks, I'll give the TR Shop a ring about the fasteners.

I'm happy about cutting the holes now, but I didn't realise that the holes are different sizes! As you can see from my photo, the depressions for the cut outs look to be the same size, but having just measured them the outer ones are about 5mm wider. Not as different though as your TR4A photos  Richard, I don't really see why they have to be different.

I can see that I'm going to 'have fun' getting all this lot to line up, basically juggling with the outer wings/rear valance/boot lid gaps/rear light housing, bearing in mind that I don't have a boot floor or sides in place. Ah well, if it was easy, I suppose everyone would be doing it!

Dave.

The reason for the outer one to be larger is because the outer iron comes out at an angle. You need to get the boot floor and the pannier sides in first before you go any further then you can build out from there, it doesnt work the other way round.

Stuart.

[TR4Tony VC]

Or just debumper the car and be done with the horrible holes …. Far nicer IMHO.

[tim hunt]

Very nice Tony. I agree that our cars look far more purposeful de-bumpered, but those that have every day use are surely more vulnerable to numpty parkers etc.

Tim

[dave bailey]

6 hours ago, stuart said:

The reason for the outer one to be larger is because the outer iron comes out at an angle. You need to get the boot floor and the pannier sides in first before you go any further then you can build out from there, it doesnt work the other way round.

Stuart.

Yes I see what you mean about the angle . I did think that having now got both inner and outer rear wings in place, that I would fit the rear valance and light housing, then the boot floor and sides. I guess that as long as I don't commit too early to actually welding anything, then I could rebuild the rear in any order, just tacking or self tapper as I go along.

Dave.

[dave bailey]

1 hour ago, TR4Tony VC said:

Or just debumper the car and be done with the horrible holes …. Far nicer IMHO.

It's a thought Tony, and I wouldn't have to get the bumpers re-chromed, even so I think that I'll stick to my original plan🤔

[stuart]

13 hours ago, dave bailey said:

Yes I see what you mean about the angle . I did think that having now got both inner and outer rear wings in place, that I would fit the rear valance and light housing, then the boot floor and sides. I guess that as long as I don't commit too early to actually welding anything, then I could rebuild the rear in any order, just tacking or self tapper as I go along.

Dave.

I still say get the boot floor and the side panniers in place before you go any further because if that back panel is anything like most repros its too narrow and you`ll have no end of trouble getting the whole back end correct then. Plus its much easier to get to weld them in as well.

Stuart.

[TR4Tony VC]

On 3/4/2026 at 9:52 PM, dave bailey said:

It's a thought Tony, and I wouldn't have to get the bumpers re-chromed, even so I think that I'll stick to my original plan🤔

If it helps I’ve got an old original valance that’s the right shape - it’s a bit rough here and there but it was used to create tooling for the small run of hand made rear valances that I had done 10 years ago. They were pretty much perfect I reckon and the two that I fitted (without the bumper iron holes) are still running around on cars with a nice fit. You’re welcome to borrow it.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 hour ago, TR4Tony VC said:

If it helps I’ve got an old original valance that’s the right shape - it’s a bit rough here and there but it was used to create tooling for the small run of hand made rear valances that I had done 10 years ago. They were pretty much perfect I reckon and the two that I fitted (without the bumper iron holes) are still running around on cars with a nice fit. You’re welcome to borrow it.

 

On 3/4/2026 at 8:10 PM, TR4Tony VC said:

Or just debumper the car and be done with the horrible holes …. Far nicer IMHO.

Yes much neater rear view.   Don’t de bumper hole the front though or you’ll have nowhere to mount your towel rail. lamp bar & registration plate.

 

Edited March 6 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[harrytr5]

7 hours ago, TR4Tony VC said:

If it helps I’ve got an old original valance that’s the right shape - it’s a bit rough here and there but it was used to create tooling for the small run of hand made rear valances that I had done 10 years ago. They were pretty much perfect I reckon and the two that I fitted (without the bumper iron holes) are still running around on cars with a nice fit. You’re welcome to borrow it.

I can vouch for that Tony. I fitted one of yours to my concours TR5 and the fit was ace. Got one of yours through Walter Petchey. Shame he gave it all up but think he is sowing the seeds again keeping it small.

Shall have to come over and have a look at 5VC some time.

Regards Harry

[Malbaby]

As Stuart suggested, fit the boot floor first before proceeding.

That repro valence could be problematic.

[North London Mike]

On 3/4/2026 at 8:10 PM, TR4Tony VC said:

Or just debumper the car and be done with the horrible holes …. Far nicer IMHO.

+1 😊

 

Edited March 7 by North London Mike

[Tim T]

Dave, 
Have sent you a PM.
Cheers,
Tim

[dave bailey]

On 3/6/2026 at 12:41 PM, TR4Tony VC said:

If it helps I’ve got an old original valance that’s the right shape - it’s a bit rough here and there but it was used to create tooling for the small run of hand made rear valances that I had done 10 years ago. They were pretty much perfect I reckon and the two that I fitted (without the bumper iron holes) are still running around on cars with a nice fit. You’re welcome to borrow it.

Thanks Tony, For the moment I'll continue with the rebuild of the boot floor and sides, and then I should be able to tell for sure if the valance fits.

I might then get back to you.

Regards.

Dave. 

[dave bailey]

Thanks all for your input. I'll report back.

Dave.

[rcreweread]

Not sure if this could be of interest:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177945938134?_skw=Triumph+TR4&itmmeta=01KKDXNENW4Z4CXKEQF5SH2AB1&hash=item296e6788d6:g:nasAAeSwJllpsEfT&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwi

No connection - just saw it on fleabay

cheers Rich

[stuart]

3 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Not sure if this could be of interest:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177945938134?_skw=Triumph+TR4&itmmeta=01KKDXNENW4Z4CXKEQF5SH2AB1&hash=item296e6788d6:g:nasAAeSwJllpsEfT&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwi

No connection - just saw it on fleabay

cheers Rich

Thats one of TR4 Tonys 

Stuart.

[TR4Tony VC]

On 3/9/2026 at 2:46 PM, stuart said:

The whole thing is made over there, they are OK for standard road use as theyre all you can get new now but when they fail just bin them.

Stuart.

No that’s not mine ! I think Gary Bates brother Tony maybe ? looks original and a little better than the one I have so worth looking at 
 

[stuart]

16 hours ago, TR4Tony VC said:

No that’s not mine ! I think Gary Bates brother Tony maybe ? looks original and a little better than the one I have so worth looking at 
 

Could be though AFIK hes living in Spain now so probably TRGB using it as a spare account.

Stuart.

[TR4Tony VC]

No he’s over near Cambridge somewhere …. I bought some bits from him a few years ago for BST82B so he’s definitely in the UK and off loading a stash of bits 

[dave bailey]

Question for Stuart really,

I've 'jury rigged' the rear valance as best I can to get some idea of where I am with the fit. As per the photos, I'm reasonably happy that the N/S fits OKish. but the O/S has quite a gap, Do you reckon that could be lead loaded, or would it need some cutting and shutting?

Dave.