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Posted
37 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

If it's just to stop over extension on the 2 post ramp = why not but the lift arms (on the rear) beneath the trailing arms?

I don't think I can get the MaxJax arms past the tires and under the TA, and if I could there is the cup holding the bottom of the shock for the coilover kit in the way.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

If it's just to stop over extension on the 2 post ramp = why not but the lift arms (on the rear) beneath the trailing arms?

I lift the car always this way with a suitable shaped wooden block and the cars scissor lift (I have a pit, no lifter)

It is made to fit „in“ and „under“ the tube part, where the shafts spin. 3 turns on the handle and the wheel is off the ground.

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Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
Posted

OK, just an update. The PRP straps I ordered are twice as thick (4 layers!) as the adjustable straps I experimented with and because of that they have less play/stretch. 9" is a bit too short now, so I'm going to try 10" next. 

Just thought I'd post the update in case anyone else wants to try this.

Posted
On 4/26/2026 at 7:12 AM, Magz said:

OK, just an update. The PRP straps I ordered are twice as thick (4 layers!) as the adjustable straps I experimented with and because of that they have less play/stretch. 9" is a bit too short now, so I'm going to try 10" next. 

Just thought I'd post the update in case anyone else wants to try this.

Correction: after about a week of on and off lifting on a 2-post lift, the 9" strap has stretched to 9.5". I did some research, and PRP actually states that the straps can stretch up to 1", so that is not a problem, it's a feature! 

I'm sticking with the 9" straps now, because 10" with the stretch will be too long.

Posted
On 4/21/2026 at 11:47 AM, Andy Moltu said:

If it's just to stop over extension on the 2 post ramp = why not but the lift arms (on the rear) beneath the trailing arms?

Trading this thread all the way through that was exactly what I was thinking. 
I have a Twin Busch 2 post lift and place the lifting pads under the trailing arms approx half way between the mounting brackets and just in front of the hole where the spring sits. Works perfectly. 
If the depth of the arms/pads is an issue just run the car back tyres up onto a plywood packing. I actually have plywood screwed to the workshop floor for exactly that reason as my race tR6 is very low. 
I think you’re over complicating an issue that doesn’t actually exist. 
I have the Goodparts rear disc conversion on the race TR6 and have been very pleased with it. 

Posted
6 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

Trading this thread all the way through that was exactly what I was thinking. 
I have a Twin Busch 2 post lift and place the lifting pads under the trailing arms approx half way between the mounting brackets and just in front of the hole where the spring sits. Works perfectly. 
If the depth of the arms/pads is an issue just run the car back tyres up onto a plywood packing. I actually have plywood screwed to the workshop floor for exactly that reason as my race tR6 is very low. 
I think you’re over complicating an issue that doesn’t actually exist. 
I have the Goodparts rear disc conversion on the race TR6 and have been very pleased with it. 

I appreciate you sharing your experiences. The lift issue is part of the story, but the other is that hitting a several inch deep pothole will slam the CV joints well past the recommended maximum angle, potentially damaging them. With the coilover conversion, there is nothing to stop them, other than the limit strap.

Posted
15 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

I have the Goodparts rear disc conversion on the race TR6 and have been very pleased with it. 

Just finished up mine today. All I need to do is bleed them and put the exhaust system back on and I'm on the road again, with a completely revamped rear drivetrain and suspension!

Later in the year I'll start on the other end of the drivetrain with a supercharger and all the work associated with that!

20260428_155812.jpg

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