Steve Morris Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 (edited) Having replaced most of the gaskets and O rings I have narrowed down the oil leak to the gasket between the gearbox and overdrive. I was hoping to avoid separating them but it seems unavoidable now. Is this likely to be a problematic exercise? Any pitfalls to watch out for? I’ve heard that spline loading can be an issue. cheers. Edited May 2 by Steve Morris Quote
Lebro Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 Is the box out of the car ? A type or J type ? Bob Quote
John Morrison Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 Steve, how bad is the leak? because thats something I would be trying to leave until the winter, also to say it is almost impossible to make these old girls oil tight, experience tells me you fix one only to soon find another. If you can live with the leak, then enjoy the car, also are you certain that the leak is between the joint, and not for example from the GB top and the selector rods? John. Quote
RogerH Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 (edited) Hi Steve This is an Autumn/Winter job as I believe you will need to remove the GB and OD in order to separate the two. That adaptor plate can warp and can crack at the 6-o-clock position. Spares are availabel from ORS in Sheffield. Be absolutely certian tis is the issue and not (as John pointed out) not coming from above. It is also very very difficult to bodge a repair insitu - I've tried. many ways. Roger PS - having just had a look at the Moss schematic the above may not be true for the 'J' type OD. It does not have the same adaptor plate. Edited April 24 by RogerH Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 24 Author Report Posted April 24 Thanks for the replies chaps. The box and O/D are out of the car and most of the seals and gaskets have been replaced. The two have been sitting level since done while I finish the engine and I’m certain that this is the only spot it can be coming from. I wiped the oil away and checked again and it is the same spot. If it’s leaking like this when cold then I suspect it’s going to be worse when hot, in operation. Oil level is full, btw. While the box is out it would be the best time to tackle it I think but only if it’s not a nightmare proposition. Quote
AlanG Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 No big deal to split the J type O/D from the G/B. FWIW a J type can be removed from the G/B insitu. Alan. Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 24 Author Report Posted April 24 So drain the oil, undo the nuts and pull? Quote
wheeler Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 Steve, All you need to know about J type overdrive. Bill https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox Quote
Malbaby Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 Are you positive that the leak is exiting the gasket and not from one of the bolts...I have a vague recollection that there is at least one bolt somewhere that is in contact with the inside oil in the case. Quote
Mike Collins Posted April 25 Report Posted April 25 To remove the J from the gearbox it needs to have been driven from the propshaft end or the two sets of splines will have locked together. It should then separate easily. If last rotation was from the clutch end it will be near impossible. Found that out the hard way. Good luck, Mike. Quote
Ian Vincent Posted April 25 Report Posted April 25 FWIW, I didn’t find it straightforward to connect my gearbox and Type A overdrive with both on the bench. I wouldn’t even think about trying it with the gearbox still in the car. Maybe a J type is easier. Rgds Ian Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 25 Author Report Posted April 25 21 hours ago, Malbaby said: Are you positive that the leak is exiting the gasket and not from one of the bolts...I have a vague recollection that there is at least one bolt somewhere that is in contact with the inside oil in the case. I shall investigate - that would be a perfect scenario… Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 25 Author Report Posted April 25 2 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: FWIW, I didn’t find it straightforward to connect my gearbox and Type A overdrive with both on the bench. I wouldn’t even think about trying it with the gearbox still in the car. Maybe a J type is easier. Rgds Ian the box and O/D are on the bench. Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 25 Author Report Posted April 25 11 hours ago, Mike Collins said: To remove the J from the gearbox it needs to have been driven from the propshaft end or the two sets of splines will have locked together. It should then separate easily. If last rotation was from the clutch end it will be near impossible. Found that out the hard way. Good luck, Mike. 11 hours ago, Mike Collins said: To remove the J from the gearbox it needs to have been driven from the propshaft end or the two sets of splines will have locked together. It should then separate easily. If last rotation was from the clutch end it will be near impossible. Found that out the hard way. Good luck, Mike. This is what is putting me off an attempt. Quote
Mike Collins Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 It does not have to be driven hard, rotation by hand or drill may well do it. Make sure the direction of rotation is correct though. Mike. Quote
Lebro Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 For what it's worth I rebuilt a Sunbeam Alpine gearbox, with J type O/D. Was not a problem getting it off, or back on. Bob Quote
Steve Morris Posted April 28 Author Report Posted April 28 I’ll give it a try and see what happens. Quote
Steve Morris Posted May 2 Author Report Posted May 2 On 4/24/2026 at 11:37 PM, Malbaby said: Are you positive that the leak is exiting the gasket and not from one of the bolts...I have a vague recollection that there is at least one bolt somewhere that is in contact with the inside oil in the case. This might well have hit the nail on the head - looks like oil is exiting from the two lowermost bolts attaching the adapter to the gearbox. This makes sense as they are the ones sitting below the filler plug level so I guess the holes go through to the main gearbox casing. Will put some thread sealant and a copper washer on these and wait and see. Quote
Steve Morris Posted May 3 Author Report Posted May 3 Confirmed. Removed one of the lowermost bolts and oil flowed out so this is looking very promising. Up-ended the box and after carefully cleaning out the threads with a pipe cleaner have re-installed with high temp thread sealer and a copper washer on both. I did hesitate and consider using the locking washer in addition to the copper but thought better of it. Will monitor the bolts for tightness once she’s running again. Quote
Steve Morris Posted Thursday at 06:50 AM Author Report Posted Thursday at 06:50 AM Yep, still oil free. Thanks for all your help chaps. Quote
RogerH Posted Thursday at 08:07 AM Report Posted Thursday at 08:07 AM Who is a lucky boy then - well done. Roger Quote
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