Tim T Posted May 2 Report Posted May 2 (edited) Does the plastic escutcheon that sits behind the winder have its flat face against the door card or the other way round? Many thanks, Tim Edited May 2 by Tim T Quote
Tim T Posted May 9 Author Report Posted May 9 Following on... Does anybody have any advice on how to insert the locating pin into the winder and winder mechanism please. In the past I have used a length of welding rod cut it partially through at the correct length, pushed it into position, then twisted it and it breaks off, job done! This time I am having great difficulty in aligning the holes and even getting the pin behind the winder. Failing all else could I cut the spring behind the door card down a little bit? Many thanks, Tim Quote
Steve-B Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 3 minutes ago, Tim T said: Following on... Does anybody have any advice on how to insert the locating pin into the winder and winder mechanism please. In the past I have used a length of welding rod cut it partially through at the correct length, pushed it into position, then twisted it and it breaks off, job done! This time I am having great difficulty in aligning the holes and even getting the pin behind the winder. Failing all else could I cut the spring behind the door card down a little bit? Many thanks, Tim Sometimes for hard to fit things like that I've used a large sewing needle(Don't tell 'er indoors), or cut a small bit of metal clothes hanger and used it to align enough to get a pin in. Quote
stuart Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 12 minutes ago, Tim T said: Following on... Does anybody have any advice on how to insert the locating pin into the winder and winder mechanism please. In the past I have used a length of welding rod cut it partially through at the correct length, pushed it into position, then twisted it and it breaks off, job done! This time I am having great difficulty in aligning the holes and even getting the pin behind the winder. Failing all else could I cut the spring behind the door card down a little bit? Many thanks, Tim Is that a new winder mechanism? The repros have a shorter stub for the handle hence your problem, by all means either cut the spring down or even delete it and put a circle of foam behind instead. Stuart. Quote
Tim T Posted May 9 Author Report Posted May 9 Steve, Many thanks. The problem is that I can’t even align the holes to get anything through atm. I will persist for a little longer and then take the door card off and implement Stuarts suggestion. Stuart, the hardware is all original and I did put it in there! Will keep going for a while! Cheers, Tim Quote
Scott M Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 Last time I did that I used a metal coat hanger. I cut about half way through probably an inch from the end . Because the coat hanger was unwound from the hook I had a long bit of wire to use as leverage . Managed to poke the inch into the hole with a bit of manipulation then as I had cut half way through the hanger it was easy to bend back and forward and break it off leaving the inch into the hole . this was over 20 years ago I did that so the memories may be playing tricks but I’m sure that how I did it . Mad it easier than trying to force in a wee length of rod . Quote
stuart Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 I just use a screw driver and a pair of long nose pliers to replace original pins, make sure you have the pin the right way round as its tapered slightly at one end to help locate it. Stuart. Quote
Tim T Posted May 9 Author Report Posted May 9 Job now completed. Many thanks for all replies. The issue was getting the escutcheon and handle pushed back far enough to allow the 2 sets of holes to line up. Getting the pin in place was not a problem once the holes were in line. The door cards are original and may have swelled up in since 1968, so I took the door card off and cut half a wind off the springs. Seemed to be just enough to do the job. Cheers, Tim Quote
michaelfinnis Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 I see you’ve done the job now, but I have a pair of locking grips similar to these. https://www.beta-tools.com/en/products/electronics-and-micromechanics/spring-tweezers/self-locking-round-end-knurled-tool-made-of-stainless-steel.html?_gl=1*1wymwy5*_up*MQ..*_ga*MjAzMzkzOTA2Ni4xNzc4MzU1MDU2*_ga_WXKMWK95WD*czE3NzgzNTUwNTUkbzEkZzAkdDE3NzgzNTUwNTUkajYwJGwwJGgw which are ideal for the job. Mike. Quote
John C Roberts Posted May 9 Report Posted May 9 My solution to this is to drill and countersink the handle 5 dia. and tap the shaft M5 Secure the handle with a M5 C/Sunk machine screw Regards JohnR Quote
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