Those drive shafts

[trchris]

I thought I’d start this thread separately from the one that’s running in the TR6 category as an update to the drive shafts from Autodoc. They have now been fitted and l wanted to pass on a few details that others may find useful. These don’t include any instructions but l did use those for the limora ones as l believe they are the same, firstly there’s no wheel studs so these will need to be brought separately and they need to be the flat headed front wheel studs, not the doomed ones which are specified for the rear hubs. I got the extra long fronts and cut to suit for some reason cheaper than standard length ? They were a very tight fit so be prepared! Next l removed the lever arms because it was so much easier to get the shafts in whilst they were off l replaced the trailing arm bump stops for new adding a couple of penny washers to slightly increase their height, once assembled and with suspension hanging turned hub 360 degrees to check the inner joint hasn’t popped. A days work all in all the most time spent checking measurements but hopefully well worth it YOU must do the measurements!! 

Chris

forgot to mention quality looks very good but time will tell , fast delivery and as l had play in one rear hub and had a worn spline on one shaft thought for the money give them a go …..hope this helps 

[DRD]

Hi Chris, thanks for that useful info for when I eventually install them.

I was wondering why you didn't just use the wheel studs from the old hubs - did they not fit?

Cheers Darren

[trchris]

Hi Darren no they have a chamfered profile and the new hubs are not machined to accept them so you will need the flat head front ones l got the long ones from Rimmers so l could cut to suit using wires l was fortunate enough that the cv boot clip didn’t catch the inside of the trailing arm but as a precaution did give them a tap with the hammer to slightly flatten. Road tested today 40 miles give or take all seems good a couple of less clunks and 6 less grease points 

Chris

[stuart]

If your changing studs, I use these as theyre made out of much better steel https://cambridgemotorsport.com/classic-historic/12564-tr2-6-1-2longer-wheel-stud.html

Stuart.

[Chilliman]

+1 that's the same ones I use, nice quality.

[Lebro]

+1

Bob

[Chris Hale]

+1

[DRD]

21 hours ago, Chilliman said:

+1 that's the same ones I use, nice quality.

Same here, already have those in the existing hubs.

[dblenk]

On 5/6/2026 at 5:46 PM, trchris said:

I thought I’d start this thread separately from the one that’s running in the TR6 category as an update to the drive shafts from Autodoc. They have now been fitted and l wanted to pass on a few details that others may find useful. These don’t include any instructions but l did use those for the limora ones as l believe they are the same, firstly there’s no wheel studs so these will need to be brought separately and they need to be the flat headed front wheel studs, not the doomed ones which are specified for the rear hubs. I got the extra long fronts and cut to suit for some reason cheaper than standard length ? They were a very tight fit so be prepared! Next l removed the lever arms because it was so much easier to get the shafts in whilst they were off l replaced the trailing arm bump stops for new adding a couple of penny washers to slightly increase their height, once assembled and with suspension hanging turned hub 360 degrees to check the inner joint hasn’t popped. A days work all in all the most time spent checking measurements but hopefully well worth it YOU must do the measurements!! 

Chris

forgot to mention quality looks very good but time will tell , fast delivery and as l had play in one rear hub and had a worn spline on one shaft thought for the money give them a go …..hope this helps 

Chris

Pleased its all gone well

Lamora ?? instructions have you a link

Measurements i guess these are critical and are they advised in the Lamora instructions

i have refurbed original and these autodocs for this winters project (i was flush at the time haha) so i am gathering info etc ready

haha nothing i do is a days work i will plan for a month hahahahaha

thanks

David

[trchris]

Hi David yes it all went well if you’re planning ahead make sure you get the wheel studs , if you go to Stuart’s comment “ looks like the lamora ones” on page 1 of the original post and click on the link it will take you to the drive shaft page ,there you will see a link to catalogue click and that brings up the information 

Chris

[dblenk]

7 hours ago, trchris said:

Hi David yes it all went well if you’re planning ahead make sure you get the wheel studs , if you go to Stuart’s comment “ looks like the lamora ones” on page 1 of the original post and click on the link it will take you to the drive shaft page ,there you will see a link to catalogue click and that brings up the information 

Chris

ok cheers Chris

[dblenk]

Chris

ich nicht verstehen ich sprechen kleine deutsch haha

the instructions are in german ?? i only have o level

david

[Ian Vincent]

1 hour ago, dblenk said:

Chris

ich nicht verstehen ich sprechen kleine deutsch haha

the instructions are in german ?? i only have o level

david

Google translate is your friend. 😀

[Z320]

https://www.limora.com/pdf/18332.pdf

[trchris]

David if you scroll down you will see the English version 

Chris

[dblenk]

5 hours ago, trchris said:

David if you scroll down you will see the English version 

Chris

i didnt scroll that far doh

erh i couldnt find the english version now its expected i can fit them hahaha

wish me luck haha

[Mantaraman]

Thanks to all (esp trchris) for the most helpful advice - I'm fitting new Autodoc drive shafts to my TR6. I have red and re-read the Limora instructions but I'm struggling to understand the question on dimensions. I've recently bought the car and founds receipts that show it was rebuilt in 2004 so I've no accurate idea if it's straight or not - but the quality of work looks pretty good so I'll assume it's in reasonable shape - and it is what it is anyway. Limora talks about centralising the diff but haven't seen any way to adjust its position. Similarly, the trailing arms are where they are - no means to adjust. After some filing of the brake backing plates I've fitted the hubs and loosely put the shafts in. Here's the question(s).

How do I determine if I need spacers on the diff output flanges? I'm not sure I can compress/stretch the shafts by hand but, after taking them out of the box and - on one side anyway - I'd need a max 3mm spacer - this after applying no force on the shaft. I haven't tightened anything yet but get the impression that the shaft would stretch this much anyway. 

I've looked at the Limora website and was frightened by their prices for spacers, are there any other sources?

I really would appreciate some detailed help on this, many thanks.

[trchris]

Hi 

What you need to do is measure the distance between the brake back plate and diff flange when the trailing arm is level , from memory but check,  400mm +/- 8mm then fit hub ( don’t refit nuts at this point ) do up centre nut but not fully tight and pull hub towards you it should open a gap between the back plate and hub . Once you happy with tolerances specified in the instructions fully assemble everything. Once you have it all finished before putting wheel on lower the trailing arm until the lever arm is fully down on bump stop and rotate hub checking inner cv joint doesn’t pop out . I renewed both bump stops and placed a large penny washer underneath to increase the height just for extra measure . Hope this helps 

Chris

ps There’s another member who’s about to fit a set so these seem to be catching on let’s hope they’re as good in the long run as first impressions are 

[Mantaraman]

Thank you trchris. I have checked the dimensions between diff flanges and brake backing plates (horizontally aligned) and found they are just within tolerance, one about 3mm over and one 7mm under. The car has clearly had some serious welding done (receipts show this in 2004) so error could have crept in. The trailing arm bushes need replacement which might straighten things out - but this will be a winter job. I would like to get some use from the car this summer.

I've followed your recommendation and found that I need approx.15mm spacers on both sides,- which doesn't make sense. I've tried to adopt the same strength of "pull" and tried not to overdo it and risk separating the joints.

I'm about to order a couple of spacers but any comments beforehand would be much appreciated.