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Posted (edited)

Hi everybody,

on my TR4A I have a strange steering problem, I guess since 2 years:

driving on a staight raod the steering wheel is slightly turned to the right.

I correct this on the tie rods, pulling the left one in and pushing the right one out.

The steering wheel is straight again but after some time it is turned slightly to the right again.

This happend several times, I guess a total of 2 turns of the nuts, and now it seems to happen faster. 

My first idea was the rack is slack and moving to the left, but it is tight.

Now an old thread came in my mind about "the housing can move off the steel tube" -> to the left on my LHD.

Does anybody remember and can offer a link, please? The rack is a replacement from 2015.

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited by Z320
Posted

Is it this one Marco? 

 

 

 

Posted

Yes!

Thank you very much, how did you find it, please.

I continue with mx posts there.

Ciao, Marco

Posted

Marco have you tried making some marks on the steering column ,rack ,etc once you have adjusted it again might be worn splines on the column 

Nick

Posted

Hi Marco,

as well as the splne in the steering wheel hub to shaft there are also  4 other splines along the steering shaft.
The clamps supplied by TRiumph were never as good as they should have been. In that they do not clamp tight enough.
After many years of varying degrees of slackness/Looseness the splines may now be too worn to hold their position.

Worth a look.

Roger

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Z320 said:

how did you find it, please.

I remembered I had posted a picture on that thread, so I looked in my 'profile' at the list of all my attachments and found the picture - which had a link to the thread. 

 

 

Edited by RobH
Posted

Marco, after thorough and satisfactory examination of the couplings, clamps and chassis I would set the steering rack central.

Setting so equal amounts of tie rod extend from each side of the rack.   Bellows off and use a ruler, if do not have the original setting pin.  

Disconnect track rod ends at the steering levers on the suspension.  Set the front wheel to be straight ahead using long bars or tracking gauges to the rear wheels.  Fit track rod ends and adjust tracking, keep the wheels straight ahead    Last task is remove and refit the steering wheel to be in the straight ahead position.

 

Setting pin.   On original steering racks there was a provision to lock the rack in the central position with a screw in peg through the grease nipple hole.  I have one of these tools, but remember it only works with original racks that had a location point drilled in the inner rack bar.   These things were crucial to set the straight ahead position of the big saloons with manual racks, or the car continually pulled one way.  Beneficial on GT6/Spitfire/Herald and TR too.

Posted

Hi Marco...

I am sure that you would have picked up on anything obviously worn or damaged.

Have you had a FOUR wheel alignment done at a commercial workshop?...There is a slight possibility that your steering problem could be originating at the rear wheels..

 

Posted

As it was my post showing the seperation of the rack i can only say worth a check yours

The fix we made with exhaust clamps seems to work well although not pretty

Moss now sell a clamp that they say solves this BUT i purchased one and whilst it looks like it should do the job it didn't fit on mine so a refund.

part no   667-296

Roy

Posted

Hi all,

holiday today, time to check everything, but all is tight, splines are good, coublings tight and the housing is not possible to move on the tube.

For a control in the future I made a black line with a marker in the edge between housing and tube.

AP1GczNi6oDt5-eH_uoAupe-Vr-AkZcdd9smhWQo

Later I thought any "idicator" alsways visible for a quick check would be better - so I fitted an bened wire.

I think this is more exact than to gap between housing and PU-bush...?

  AP1GczNz8YZLo4TZERovx0ejtxhWsullVBBMpu4K

As long the rack divides not in pieces in a sudden moment all is "OK".

But the issue will be under further observtion.

Ciao, Marco

Posted
16 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi all,

holiday today, time to check everything, but all is tight, splines are good, coublings tight and the housing is not possible to move on the tube.

For a control in the future I made a black line with a marker in the edge between housing and tube.

AP1GczNi6oDt5-eH_uoAupe-Vr-AkZcdd9smhWQo

Later I thought any "idicator" alsways visible for a quick check would be better - so I fitted an bened wire.

I think this is more exact than to gap between housing and PU-bush...?

  AP1GczNz8YZLo4TZERovx0ejtxhWsullVBBMpu4K

As long the rack divides not in pieces in a sudden moment all is "OK".

But the issue will be under further observtion.

Ciao, Marco

From those pictures yours is an original rack Marco so you shouldnt have the same problem with the housing.

Stuart.

Posted

Hi Stuart,

I bought it as a repro in 2015, so it seems to be a good copy.

I hope they did a good copy with the connection too.

One detail is made better, sadly anotherone worst.

I hope I will never da a „takeoff“ and find out the reason too late.

Ciao, Marco

Posted
21 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi all,

holiday today, time to check everything, but all is tight, splines are good, coublings tight and the housing is not possible to move on the tube.

For a control in the future I made a black line with a marker in the edge between housing and tube.

AP1GczNi6oDt5-eH_uoAupe-Vr-AkZcdd9smhWQo

Later I thought any "idicator" alsways visible for a quick check would be better - so I fitted an bened wire.

I think this is more exact than to gap between housing and PU-bush...?

  AP1GczNz8YZLo4TZERovx0ejtxhWsullVBBMpu4K

As long the rack divides not in pieces in a sudden moment all is "OK".

But the issue will be under further observtion.

Ciao, Marco

Look at the photo of the failed rack

Dave Mc. Showed a fix we used

Posted

I‘ve seen it, but nothing moved there.

And when I notice it moves I will scrap it the next day

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi,

last week the steering wheel was slightly turned to re right, 

than the end of the week suddenly without any reason slightly to the left!

Parking the TR at Sunday on a steep hill with the wheels turned to the right the steering wheel suddenly was to the right again!

Hole distance home (100 miles) no change. My indicator shows no change. I guess the hole rack moves, or what else...?

Ciao, Marco

Posted
7 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

last week the steering wheel was slightly turned to re right, 

than the end of the week suddenly without any reason slightly to the left!

Parking the TR at Sunday on a steep hill with the wheels turned to the right the steering wheel suddenly was to the right again!

Hole distance home (100 miles) no change. My indicator shows no change. I guess the hole rack moves, or what else...?

Ciao, Marco

Has to be the whole rack as the centre beam of the rack is connected directly to the inner rod ends and so on out to the wheels..

Stuart.

Posted (edited)

Marco, I don't suppose the steering column's bottom-clamp is jumping a tooth ?  The spline in the steering wheel would be felt if loose, and the steering coloum's length adjustment cannot move just a little bit around,  but the original bottom clamps were never particularly good.

Pete

Edited by Bfg
Posted (edited)

Last TR-Stammtisch a club mate told me the rack moving is a well known Spitfire problem....

Good news, nothing dangerous can happen: it is fixed on both ends on the steering lever / "wheel" :lol:

Edited by Z320
Posted
2 hours ago, Z320 said:

Last TR-Stammtisch a club mate told me the rack moving is a well known Spitfire problem....

Good news, nothing dangerous can happen: it is fixed on both ends on the steering lever / "wheel" :lol:

What type of rack mounts do you have Marco?

Stuart.

Posted

Original with PU bushes,

I check the diameter of the tube of the original and the replacement rack

Posted
16 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Original with PU bushes,

I check the diameter of the tube of the original and the replacement rack

The steel "U" clamps should hold it down as the outer tube is the same size on repros as originals You might need to do the same procedure as per original rubber mounts which is to use a turnbuckle type of special tool to force the brackets out slightly to more firmly grip the rack mounting ears. This is outlined in the workshop manual Figure 23 section 4.210

Stuart.

Posted (edited)

Hi,

I considered what could be the reason for the steering wheel suddenly to he right again when parking steep downhill last Sunday?

An accident I already forgot! An hudge Audi SUV (with a small driver, small like the Audi was hudge) touched my TR while parking on the front bumper left side.

This was slowly, no damage on my TR but amazing how the hole TR moved on its 185/80R15 tieres. Apart from the ruined Audi aluminium rim (well deserved).

Yesterday I had a closer look.

The clamps seem to be tight, but perhaps this have only been the nuts seized on the worn and bended threads?

I bended them straight and cut the threads free. 

AP1GczNqKqlqJVbC-DhVIryNP6bTPNy0R3IAikoF

The PU bushes can't be compressed the way the workshop manual shows,

they are about 2 mm higher than the clamps and are compressed against the rack from bolting the clamps down

AP1GczMzKHM7r1g-W0rpAnM1EhUeZdIMcDOhTjfu

To get the clamps upright I used a vice-grip wrench, like I did before.

AP1GczP8JcTWkPiW47piZp4Y5eX3tyteonitGoq3

And from below I added steel bars 5 x 20 mm for the case the bracked on the frame wants to bend.

AP1GczNTAk28-f2DZ6Pmv2-jm1luLzG9QCB_bisJ

Today the wheel adjustment and a test drive on Sunday.

I hope this solves the problem.

Ciao, Marco

  

 

Edited by Z320
Posted
3 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

I considered what could be the reason for the steering wheel suddenly to he right again when parking steep downhill last Sunday?

An accident I already forgot! An hudge Audi SUV (with a small driver, small like the Audi was hudge) touched my TR while parking on the front bumper left side.

This was slowly, no damage on my TR but amazing how the hole TR moved on its 185/80R15 tieres. Apart from the ruined Audi aluminium rim (well deserved).

Yesterday I had a closer look.

The clamps seem to be tight, but perhaps this have only been the nuts seized on the worn and bended threads?

I bended them straight and cut the threads free. 

AP1GczNqKqlqJVbC-DhVIryNP6bTPNy0R3IAikoF

The PU bushes can't be compressed the way the workshop manual shows,

they are about 2 mm higher than the clamps and are compressed against the rack from bolting the clamps down

AP1GczMzKHM7r1g-W0rpAnM1EhUeZdIMcDOhTjfu

To get the clamps upright I used a vice-grip wrench, like I did before.

AP1GczP8JcTWkPiW47piZp4Y5eX3tyteonitGoq3

And from below I added steel bars 5 x 20 mm for the case the bracked on the frame wants to bend.

AP1GczNTAk28-f2DZ6Pmv2-jm1luLzG9QCB_bisJ

Today the wheel adjustment and a test drive on Sunday.

I hope this solves the problem.

Ciao, Marco

  

 

I use the mole grips to compress that sort of bush upright too though Ive not seen a bottom plate bent yet.

Stuart.

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