Green Eggs and Ham.

[Chilliman]

1 minute ago, RogerH said:

Another simple way to feel the hardness is to stroke an edge with a smooth file

Good shout, it's in the workshop I'll give that a try later.

[Chilliman]

So here you go - a fine file used on the edge of both sprockets shown. The old one on the right it slid across the surface & wouldn't/couldn't bite, just left a shiny graze. The other one however it made a distinct notch several mil deep without any effort. As Drewmotty likes to say 'New stuff ain't no good'

[stuart]

22 hours ago, Chilliman said:

So here you go - a fine file used on the edge of both sprockets shown. The old one on the right it slid across the surface & wouldn't/couldn't bite, just left a shiny graze. The other one however it made a distinct notch several mil deep without any effort. As Drewmotty likes to say 'New stuff ain't no good'

Would you care to share the supplier with us John. I take it words have been had?

Stuart.

[Chilliman]

11 minutes ago, stuart said:

Would you care to share the supplier with us John. I take it words have been had?

Unfortunately Stuart I carry a great deal of stock which is bought in well in advance of being used, I'm pretty sure I know where it came from as there are only certain suppliers I use but it would be unwise for me to guess. I suspect most of the main stream suppliers use the same piece, it is certainly identical including the stamped numbers to the one currently shown on the Moss site although it is highly unlikely that is where I bought this one.

[PriceLes]

I will look into it when home again and consider induction hardening as an option if needed.

[Drewmotty]

On 6/2/2026 at 12:37 PM, Chilliman said:

I also tried popping the surface of each sprocket with an auto centre punch (I accept - highly unscientific)

Not at all.

Messrs Brinnel and Rockwell thought that controlled indentation was a fine method of measuring hardness  

The clue in the case of the new sprockets was the surface colour which has clearly not seen any heat treatment  

“New stuff is no good”- Steve McQueen  

 

Edited June 10 by Drewmotty

[PriceLes]

Northern India 2012.

 

30 years earlier (1982) on Bougainville Island, both my father and stepfather served in the Pacific in WW2.

I will get back to this thread as time allows, one week to flying home from work.

[PriceLes]

[PriceLes]

I still have other things to do that go hand in hand with this mostly mechanical refurbishment of the TR, one is a top in closure like this one for my own 770.

[PriceLes]

I also need to finish the vapour blaster, the gun with Boron nozzle is machined, the cabinet assembled on my last break at home. First use will be the rear trailing arms (Good Parts Nylatron bushes to replace the PU items and GP adjustable mounts after blasting)

This should make for a major saving based on farming this work out in the past, plus the convenience of home use.

[PriceLes]

Based on the expense of the Good Parts CV half shafts, the Triumph open centre differential ( supposedly $1300 spent on it) went under the bench replaced with a R200 VLSD. Picture of the viscous centre below.

For peace of mind I replaced all of the bearings and seals with Nissan boxed items and might add, at removal I elected to grind the bearing inners in the mill to give the little 10t press a break. 

The old and the new (Ralph ; ) The unit is from a 300zx which has a 4:08 ratio, I think it will be ok (there was a Triumph 4:1 IRS option) with perhaps a 300rpm increase in overdrive 4th over the 3:7 removed. The car has 205/6515 Michelins but might consider going to a 195/65/15 and polishing the alloys fully.

 

[PriceLes]

As posted previously, I bought every Good Parts item available that could be used on the TR4A including springs and Nylatron bushes (front ant rear) , that includes the front and rear TR6 ARB’s which will require some fabrication as far as mounting.

I could not find Koni dampers for the rear (Koni’s on the front) locally or even the USA so pre ordered a pair via Demon Tweeks in the IK who had the best price and shipping , I will make my own mounts which might include a heim jointed brace between the rear tubs and include two TR6 type mounts added to the chassis cross bridge which the A does not have.

[stuart]

1 hour ago, PriceLes said:

As posted previously, I bought every Good Parts item available that could be used on the TR4A including springs and Nylatron bushes (front ant rear) , that includes the front and rear TR6 ARB’s which will require some fabrication as far as mounting.

I could not find Koni dampers for the rear (Koni’s on the front) locally or even the USA so pre ordered a pair via Demon Tweeks in the IK who had the best price and shipping , I will make my own mounts which might include a heim jointed brace between the rear tubs and include two TR6 type mounts added to the chassis cross bridge which the A does not have.

I would presume you know this already but. Make sure the rear shocks are of the correct length when compressed so the trailing arm hits the bump stop before bottoming out the shocker or it will snap the rear off the trailing arm.

Stuart.

[PriceLes]

Yes I have read various posts on that subject Stuart. I have made my own suspension parts in the past, car and motorcycle, the lever dampers will go under the bench with the clunky differential.

Edited June 11 by PriceLes

[PriceLes]

What I am looking forward to is machining a new distributor for the TR, as I did for my 1973 Moto Guzzi. I elected to get the ECU ignition option with the PM TBI kit and it will be to suit that. ( A pity the 123 with map#7 goes on the shelf as it performed perfectly but a good excuse to make one similar in looks)

[PriceLes]

[PriceLes]

Apparently the flange on the R200 I am using is the small OD version and not the larger one that when modified cuts into the existing holes when the OD is reduced.

It was straight forward machining in my case, an OD reduction, a light face and new spigot bore to suit the Good Parts R200 HD drive shaft.

Lathe.

Mill using the DRO hole function and hole pattern via an internet search.

From the Good Parts website.

[PriceLes]

When I got the car, it had a hose from the alloy rocker cover to a small K&N style filter hanging in the breeze. I will machine something vaguely similar to this to mount at the location of the mechanical fuel pump (electric FI pump will be at the rear somewhere) The return will go as this one back into the sump below the oil level. The reed valve will have a larger flow to suit the larger engine capacity (2288cc) , the outlet hose will be at least one inch ID.

Four more work days until the 5500km trip home and hopefully my last swing on this project. 

[PriceLes]

Up at 3:30am with one day of work to go and the long trip home tomorrow for the last time. 

[Hamish]

Safe travelling. 

[PriceLes]

19 hours ago, Hamish said:

Safe travelling. 

Thanks Hamish, one flight down and waiting for the next back to the east coast. 

[PriceLes]

Post had arrived from the UK, escort universals for the steering shaft and the drum back with new friction linings from Overdrive Repair Services along with the thrust washers.

[PriceLes]

I have decided to replace the wiring loom (Autosparks) and will replace the stock heater box with one from T7 Design (3.5Kw) and still debating John Skinner carpet, door cards and hard top lining.

First up this morning from the comfort of the couch was ordering a 'bunch of lathe inserts, I need to make a camshaft bearing installation tool.The engine had new sleeves and pistons (4 ring) which were discarded and new cam and crankshaft bearings which all showed distress so no surprise when I removed the crankshaft plugs to find this.

 

The cam bearings bar one had been installed out of alignment, apparently you just remove the locating pin off the end of the bolt. I have new bearings to fit along with another set of -0.010” rod and main shells, luckily the journals were within 0.0002” at worse so got a light linish only and will polish them later.

The engine was said to be built by a professional shop and 500kms since being rebuilt, I can only assume it was lugged at run in and built at home.

 

 

This will be my first wet sleeve engine rebuild so looking forward to it especially the 0.003”/0.005” sleeve projection procedure. I had already bought a ARP head stud kit and contacted ARP regarding a crankshaft main stud set (possibility) after finding the head studs had the same thread for the block but no reply to date. 

[PriceLes]

When I rang ORS to pay the bill for the drum re-lining I mentioned some concerns regarding the annulus teeth. They asked for pictures which I said I would send once I was home, I wonder what the verdict will be. (And the effect of that on the planetary gears teeth and sun gear)

I would have to wonder if it had been assembled with the planetary gears not phased (dots) or had been extremely hot which the friction linings suggested along with blackened bushes in the gearbox. Still no regrets staying with the OD four speed.

[Lebro]

Maxspeedingrods  conrods are highly rated, & not expensive.

Bob